Thank you all for your input and advice. And sorry for the suspense - I couldn't find the camera cord. And another apology - I said "soil", but should've said "mix": I've got them growing in metro-mix 830 (peat, composted bark, perlite, vermiculite, dolomite lime, and blue chip). Below are links to the pics of the trees as they live in their environment. I posted links rather than the pics themselves so that I could keep the images large enough to show as much detail as possible. Houstontexas123 thanks for that link. After comparing mine I would say it looks like their iron-deficient leaves look most like mine, but again, when it comes down to it, I can't say that any of them look anything like mine. After reading your generous comments above, and reading the back of the metro-mix bag (where it recommends a constant application of fertilizer after at most the third watering), and contemplating my own ignorance, I'm pretty much coming to the conclusion that my poor citrus are deficient in probably pretty much just about everything. Heh. I guess what took me so long to wake up was that it took me so long to hit bottom. My Meyer is six or seven years old now, and has been producing happily and abundantly in the same pot until only last year without aid of any more than a general granulated house plant fertilizer that I put in the water when I brought them in for the winter. : you can see the newer growth is even yellower than the old growth (you should be able to enlarge the images by clicking them if they don't automatically fill your brower). : older growth is yellowing out and dropping off. You can see a few fruit, also sadly yellowish. : newer growth yellower than old as well. I looked around the internet and town good and long for Vigoro citrus and avocado fertilizer but couldn't seem to find anyone who was selling it or could order it, so I picked up a box of Dr. Earth's Fruit Tree Fertilizer. It lists citrus as a primary use, so ought to address my flagrant nutrientlessness. It's quick-release too, so hopefully I'll see some results soon.

It could maybe be a bug ? take a leaf back to the Nursery and ask, or maybe get hold of your Extension Agent.... maybe Tom here could help.... have you sprayed or anything, to try and control it ? this is sure the time of year for all this nasty stuff, what with the heat..... and usually 'this too shall pass', so don't give up, the plant should live thru' it... and Mulberries drop their leaves in the winter and come back in the Spring, at least mine do, and this year it had a bumper crop, the birds really enjoyed it !............sally

Thats close Jackie but CHAENOMELES speciosa Iwai Nishiki blooms early spring to late Spring and this has flowers in October and the reproductive parts are different. Are there any flowering Quinces which bloom in the Fall? Seems like everyone knows what its not and not what it is. LOL Patrick

The best thing to control chili thrips is something with spinosad in it..... such as Conserve. If you spray it late evening or very early morning so it can dry it won't hurt the bees. It kills only on contact and only when wet. According to the University of Florida they have "banker plants" that will host the Swirski-Mite which is a predatory mite and it will eat the chili thrip. We had a guest speaker at our rose society last September and we were given the host plant of an oriental pepper plant to grow. When it starts to put out flowers the Swirski-Mite can be put on the plant because it will also eat the pollen. The Swirski has been very helpful to the Florida pepper farmers because the crops were being devastated by the chili thrips. The farmers were having to be spray every two weeks. However, after adding the Swirski-Mite they have to spray only once a season...... I have had my Swiriski's less than a month so I can not personally proclaim how well it works.... but have fingers crossed..... Once you start the banker plants (bankers plants MUST be FLOWERING) you will NOT want to spray because you will then kill your good mites. What I did before introducing my Swirski's I sprayed the Conserve very early on my roses that had problems to get a good handle on the chili thrips. Then I placed the "baggie" of the chili thrips on my oriental pepper plants and placed the plants in slightly shady location.... you do not want the baggie in the sun. Once I felt the CT's were starting to come out I moved the pepper plants to the rose garden and tucked it in close to a rose bush...... I personally chose Beverly because she is my most susceptible to CT's. I figured she would keep the CT's fat and satisfied..... and I would be rewarded with nice leaves..... Check out the below articles. http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/BENEFICIAL/swirksi_mite.htm https://mrec.ifas.ufl.edu/lso/BANKER%20IST/10.1007_s11829-013-9283-y.pdf Good luck