LoE 452, LoE 340, LoE 366 when you have a view
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Seeking advice about LoE366 and other tax credit glass
Comments (0)Dear all, I have many questions as a homeowner, and first time window buyer. We are looking to purchase 17 windows for our 1770's home, in northeastern CT where the temps are below zero at times in the winter. Summers can be hot and muggy. We are looking at maintaining the character of our house, by seeking architectural features that match our current windows (six over six, wood, wavy older glass) but we want efficiency for comfortable living. We are interested in Marvin Ultimates, double hung wood, simulated divided light (same grill pattern that we have now), with aluminum clad exterior. We were told that the glass needs to be LoE366 in order to be eligible for the tax credit - which we would like to receive. I would like to hear from homeowners or others that are knowledgeable about the aesthetics of this LoE366 glass. I have seen a hand sample of the glass, but not a window/door sample with the glass mounted because it was not available. Will it be too dark? I have read other posts that share their satisfaction with LoE in general, but I understand not all LoE is the same, and tints vary. Any LoE366 customers out there? Also, a GC told me that there are other companies (Jenweld?) that make a tax credit qualifying glass, with better visual transmittance than Cardinal's LoE366. ZoE.. something, and I think there might be another one. Please share your experience with these other options. Do you think the quality of this alternate glass, and or these other window brands is as good as the Marvin Ultimates with LoE366? Finally, I am a little confused about whether we should be replacing or using new construction windows. We have had a lead inspector from the state create a lead plan for us to deal with many deteriorated leaded surfaces throughout our home, including the windows. And we are under the impression, that it is safer to do new construction. However, 2 GC's seemed puzzled when I said we were going to do it this way. Our exterior is clapboard, and we know we would have to replace around the windows. My husband is very handy, and ready to do this if it is the best course. He believes that because there is extensive exterior sill damage on all of our windows, we are better off going with new construction. True? Finally, I wonder if the draft be significantly less with new construction? I welcome your comments, and I am happy to know that there is a glass lord among us. Hello Oberon!...See More272 vs 366 glass? Please help.
Comments (19)Yes I understand Oberon is considered the authority on this forum but these numbers are based on software calculations from Trane Trace 700 (one of the leading load calc softwares on the market). The software takes into account the angle and movement of the sun in every hour of the year. What do you use Oberon? I also failed to mention I create energy models for LEED buildings too. This software has been approved to use for LEED energy models. I didn't forget to input the VT I just didn't get into all of the details in my last post. Here are the numbers I used for my window library files: Double pane U-factor = 0.29 (or 0.30 for the 272 glass) Shading coefficient (SHGC/0.87) = 0.23 (or 0.34 for 272) VT = 0.47 (or 0.52 for 272) Inside visible reflectivity = 0.227 Solar transmissivity = 0.504 Inside solar reflectivity 0.182 Outside long wave emissivity = 0.84 Inside long wave emissivity = 0.84 The last 5 numbers I haven't been able to find for either of the glass types. If anyone has that info that would be great! I just used the standard double pane values for those and kept them the same for both calculations. I have mostly gliders in my house with a few casement and fixed windows so I used the glider values. Using those values also gave me the worst case scenario. Using the 366 glass on the whole house gave me: -52,884 Btu/h Heating Load 12,984 Btu/h Cooling Load Using 272 glass for the whole house gave me: -53,168 Btu/h Heating Load 14,197 Btu/h Cooling Load Using 272 glass on only the South & Southwest facing windows in the dining room and living room (which are all large & typically bring in a lot of light) gave me: -52,994 Btu/h Heating Load 13,425 Btu/h Cooling Load So all in all it's not a huge difference but the cooling load is still higher with the 272 glass on the south facing windows vs the 366 glass. With the cost difference between 272 and 366 being very minor we're going with all 366 glass. Correct me if I've forgotten to include anything Oberon....See MoreLight Impact of LoĒ³‐366 windows?
Comments (15)Well, I thought I would wrap up my involvement in this thread that I started... it has been useful to me. The quote we had gotten for the Andersen 100 Series included their "SmartSun" glass option, which qualifies for the tax credit and compares to the Marvin all-Ultrex quote we got with the LoE-366 glass. Regarding the tint of the low-e glass, I took skydawggy's suggestion and brought home a sample. We liked the look of the Andersen "SmartSun"; it appears to work as advertised in terms of letting visible light through, and we'll take it on faith that it filters out the more damaging radiation and heat. The Andersen 100 Series was about $2,200 less as quoted. We felt they looked a bit better than the Ultrex  the seams at the corners seemed cleaner to me (once the excess caulking from the factory was rubbed off). So we've ordered the Andersen 100 series windows and French door. Special thanks to windowsonwashington for your advice to go with the Marvin Ultrex with general statements of product and company/warranty superiority. I don't doubt that you're right but I'm still confident that Andersen's a safe bet. By contrast, our GC said that having dealt with both companies on warranty issues, he prefers dealing with Andersen (although that argument came down to an individual service rep for Marvin in our area who apparently earned himself the label of "bozo", so it's not really not fair to judge the brand on this :-). Since I've not seen any real negative reviews on the Andersen 100 Series or the Fibrex composite they're made of, we're figuring they'll do the job just fine. Fingers crossed. cheers, -- brian...See MoreJeld Wen Lo E
Comments (15)The climate here may be different than you might think as it can vary quite a bit on elevation. 10miles away from me can get 100" or more of snow, I will probably get about 5-10" the whole winter and it will not likely last more than a day. Typically winters where I am will barely get to freezing temps at night. Summers however will easily get to 100, this year we hit 110. But rather than bore you with climate stuff you could look up, let me give you some real data for my locale. Our last house was 3700sq/ft and had 35 windows. It had a forced gas furnace and central air. It was 2x4 construction with the cheapest double pane builders vinyl windows I have ever seen. They were very drafty and could move the curtains if the wind blew hard. The sun would heat surface #4 to be hot to the touch with white plastic blinds. Overall the construction and insulation was bare minimum. The utility bills for that house for gas and electric for the two highest months for each were as follows: August: Electric $156 Gas $17 December Electric $63 Gas $127 As you can see they nearly reciprocate each other in the warmest vs coldest months. Total gas was $718 and total power was $987 for the year. I expect the new 3200sq/ft house with less and better windows and much better insulation to do a lot better. I will report back after a year of utility bills for everyone to compare....See Moreoberon476
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