Eastern redbud looking rough. Anything I should do?

last year

The base of my redbud is looking bad. Anything I can do or should’ve done? I’m no expert by any means, so let me know if you think it’s a lost cause. TIA

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Comments (9)

BillMN-z-2-3-4
last year
last modified: last year
If it's still alive and shoots new sprouts from the bottom this spring, you should be able to cut off the damaged trunk and let the new shoot(s) grow into a new tree.
Embothrium
last year
Prospects for success of any replacement shoots depend on what, specifically is affecting the existing stem.

Ask Us: Plants: University of Illinois Extension
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The fact that you followed the recommendations for "root stimulation" definitely raises an eyebrow but you haven't got anything to lose by waiting. Redbud leaf buds can be inconspicuous and if it's too young to flower it might just look dead. Rather than the "scratch test" I prefer what I call the "snap test" and that is if you go to lightly bend branches, do they flex or do that snap and break off? I don't know that I'd wait a whole year... if it doesn't leaf out in by june, it's probably not going to. Avoid the place you bought it from but try it again. Find somewhere that has a return policy. Next time around don't use any root stimulator or fertilizer. And don't plant in the summer. Wait until fall.
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I agree that if the tree is ever to amount to much, you may have to cut it at ground level, as Ken suggested. A picture might help verify what we suspect. If you do decide to go that route, I'd recommend doing it in late winter, for the best chance of the tree surviving and bouncing back as quickly as possible.
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I have two Redbuds that are now 6 years old & the first two years they took to adjust to their new spot. One is planted in strong direct sun the other is in half shade. Both of the trees took two years to settle in. I am sure you will see better results next spring. Do keep the tree watered until the ground freezes so it will go into winter with good moisture. Next summer again make sure you keep it watered if you don't get rain & the third summer it will take off on it own & you should not need to worry about the watering anymore.
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Thank you, all.. I'm sorry I don't have a photo at this time. The tree is planted mostly under large old pines, but in a bed about 5-6 feet from a garage, in a smaller suburban yard. Ken, it would seem great to 'live and let live' as I do with most other plantings... but... The "shoots" literally poked out (think of the Statue of Liberty's crown - it's the best I can do to describe it) of the entire perimeter (about 10 of them) of the crown at least 5-6 feet all-around. I couldn't imagine those branches surviving winter here (if we had a bad one), and was also interested in branching for flowering purposes in the longer term. Re "1/3 cutting'... Brandon... I generally took the larger of 3 stems of a branch back to the node.. trying to use that as my method for the 'shoots.' Otherwise, they seemed to be extensions of branches that were rubbing. What is meant by 'the correct branching angle of limbs, correcting those too narrow as early as possible'..? Again, any advice, info and guidance is much appreciated. It can be such a beautiful (and healthy) tree..
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BillMN-z-2-3-4
last year
It appears that, whatever the ailment is, it has occurred during more than one season, along with partial encapsulation after each episode.

Could be varmint damage, sun scald or something else, along the lines of a pathogen.
I. Smith
last year
Looks like a combination of root girdling and sun scald. Clues to root girdling are the abnormal trunk flare and surface level roots. If you brush away the mulch, you might find the roots are encircling the tree, rather than growing laterally. It's usually a transplanting issue. Sun scald damage is preventable by wrapping trees over winter from the lowest branches downward. Tree guards can also prevent young trees from potential wildlife damage.
BillMN-z-2-3-4
last year
The roots do look a little funky.
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
last year
last modified: last year
Fess up...was this an end of season big box bargain?

Next time...hold the pot until proper planting time..bare root it...and then plant properly.. including root flare depth...

Dad once bought me one...and cut it to the ground twice to finally make a nice tree out of it...they are hard to kill...

Let's see if it buds out...or comes up from the roots in spring...and then decide what to do....

PP
Christopher CNC
last year
I'd cut it down to the stump now. The damage is so bad that if it has a remaining bit of cambium connection to the top and tries to recover, it will snap in the first good wind after it puts any heavy growth on that trunk. That would happen a couple years down the road just when you think it is starting to look good. The only hope is to regrow the thing from the stump.
rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
last year
I wouldn’t waste valuable years growing this poor specimen of a tree. If it were mine, It would be gone and replaced with a healthy tree, properly planted and protected against weedeaters and varmints.
Illini Fan
Original Author
last year
This was purchased last Spring and planted at that time. I’ll return it as soon as replacements are available

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Eastern redbud looking rough. Anything I should do?

Comments (9)

BillMN-z-2-3-4

Embothrium

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BillMN-z-2-3-4

I. Smith

BillMN-z-2-3-4

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

Christopher CNC

rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

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Eastern redbud looking rough. Anything I should do?

Comments (9)

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Illini FanOriginal Author

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Illini Fan
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