I could pull out a drawer on my duncan phyfe 1940's china closet and show you the same thing. I'd guess it's 36" in diameter? (the writing on the bottom). But it's definately not a federal piece. It does not have the elegant straight lines, light construction, or tapered legs that you would see in a federal piece. While it does have some inlay and contrasting veneers, that alone does not a federal table make :) Those skills were used long after and before the federal style was in vogue. Duncan Pfyfe is somewhat of an adaptation of several styles like Adam, Sheratan, Hepplewhite and Empire. Often amatures confuse it with these styles in error. But if you look at the construction of the piece, it's very similar to the popular pieces of the 1940's. Duncan Pfyfe was SOOO Popular that all of the good furniture stores carried it. You see elements of it in table styles that wouldn't have existed in a home of the real Duncan Pfyfe era (ie coffee tables). There are adaptations to the original Duncan style as well. A bit of weight to pieces that wouldn't have been in the original style. You'll see, because they were mass produced, things like the easy curves of your legs, which are lovely, but also easily cut and assembled with the technology of the day. You can see points of typical Pfyfe in the design, but they don't have the grace of an original. And yet it's a lovely table :) I think you picked a great option for your foyer! It's an elegant piece.

You did a fantastic job on your first big project, the worry factor is often the biggest obstacle, and proper research helps to overcome this issue...you did great asking the right questions and perhaps you are well on your way to becoming a seasoned weekend refinisher. There is a great sense of satisfaction in being able to "resurrect" old furniture pieces, many can been had cheaply because they're so ughhh! So here are a few extra hints to helps with the next project... 1). Use the powerful, nasty strippers, with methylene chloride, they just get the job done so much better than citrus strippers...gloves n goggles n good ventilation are important, you will love the fast results, use a green scotchbrite pad, rough steel wool, a stiff brush, etc. 2).strip the whole piece, never mind taping off areas unless the finish is pristine...chances are you will been able to do a much nicer job if you take the whole piece down to bare, especially once you learn how to seal, glaze n tone....shellac n stain powders/glazes are your friends... 3).automotive dewaxers are great, like ditzler/ppg # dx330....a big helps in cleaning up after stripping n neutralizing....helps to avoid contaminants like fisheye"silicone" and lets your get a look at the grain and possible spots, problem areas before your stain or seal the piece. 4).while your can always re-strip, sand or undo your work, try to think ahead and prepare...ie, test stain/finish underneath a tabletop first, dont stain or finish in the sun or winds at 90 degrees, read up , but only from truly problem sources, like mike dresdner, etc.. 4).have fun and dont be afraid, we all had to learn to walk and talk. There is great satisfaction in learning how to finish/refinish....drying times, dust free and stain/finish compatibility are the biggies, so dont worry, ask a lot of ??? And dont believe everything your hear.... 5).cheers, holla at me if ya want...veryspecialprojects@gmail.com....I only have three decades of finishing wood under my belt, but I'll try to help if I can....aloha

cpartist, I am using an 18" deep vanity table for my bath vanity and I bought a Victoria and Albert Amalfi 55 vessel sink. It is 13 3/8 front to back, 21 5/8 wide and 6 5/8 high at the highest point. I liked the way the sides came up to catch any splashes. The photo in the link shows it with a modern single hole faucet and you may be able to squeeze one behind it, but the wall-mount one you were discussing above would be perfect. Plus, with the 28" high table, a 6" high sink would make it 34", which would be perfect. If you still want to add height, LeeValleyTools.com sells some adjustable leg levelers that you drill into the ends of the legs. You can add a bit of height with them.

Golly, nyboy, it's been years since I've seen (or even thought about) a VanDykes catalog... Okay, nosoccermom, there's a starting point, Van Dykes does sell 11 inch leaves in three lengths for $97.54, but only in Red Oak, which you don't want unless you choose to use the tablecloth every time, and you would prefer not to. Cherry is more expensive than Red Oak. A leaf from Van Dykes would add a shipping cost which you should add into your cost estimate. They sell only unfinished leaves, so finishing is another cost (or a project that you may or may not want to take on) to add. I didn't look to see if the price of the Van Dykes leaf includes alignment pegs or not, but that is something you do want, another cost to add. So when you do the math you'll see that it's not exactly cheap, probably close to the same amount of money that you would like to spend on that Walnut table, should it turn out to be anything you want, but there will be additional money to spend on that one too... Nobody ever said making decisions was easy. You could just flip a coin, I've done that lots of times. Sometimes I'm unhappy with the result, but that could happen no matter how I made the decision, and that is why I decline to make, or even try to influence your decision for you. I know what I'd do, but I don't know what you should do. And sometimes I'm wrong. Deciding whether or not to cross the street is beginning to look easy, isn't it? At least I haven't got that one wrong, so far.