Oh good grief Raimondi...always the same story. Ok, in the real world people can have a 48" range, a 48" hood with passive make-up air and not pay 20K. If you are a baker, the double ovens might be a good choice for you. I had some in the past, and chose a 48" range for our reno. Love, love, love it! I do most of my cooking using the burners, so having many (and a griddle) and plenty of space around them works perfectly for me. Know your cooking style and don't think that you have to have a 1/4 M kitchen to have a large range ;)

I currently have a 48" cooktop and double ovens. I would not like a range because my lower back would revolt. Also, I have a blind dog and it's just too dangerous to open a low, hot oven and lift up a turkey or roast. Since you need 2 hands for that - you end up leaving the hot door open for longer than is safe, IMO.

If you have space for a cooktop and double ovens - I would go that route.

And edited to add - there's nothing in the OPs statement that you can assume about budget, income or affordabiilty. It's rude and elitist to do so.

IMO no one needs a 48" range unless they cook for 20 3x a day. I run acatering biz from my home with a 6 burner 36" all gas range . I do however have double wall ovens too I love yeast doughs baked in a gas oven. The MUA and hood for a 48" range will cost more than the range . I think apppliances should be chosen for how you cook not to impress anyone .BTW a 2 burner griddle will cost less than $30 and will work just fine

The questions you ask are really dependent on the kitchen layout as a whole and each person's specific cooking style so what works for you might not work for me or any one else.

Double ovens that are not close to a cooktop might be more of a hassle to someone who does a lot of cooktop-to-oven cooking (me) but might not be an issue for a baker (not me). I have used both ovens simultaneously maybe twice in the year I've had them. But if you do most of your cooking on the stove and you do a lot of baking and like having your baking area separate, you might feel differently.

I have a 36" rangetop with 6 burners. It's a ton of room. I can't imagine needing more. Unless you are cooking for a barracks the actual cooktop space of a 48" range will probably not ever be needed. I have a double oven but it's a bit far from my rangetop and I don't like it. I have to walk over, open the door, walk back, grab my pan - the entire time my oven door is wide open. Every time I am checking to make sure no one is around before I do it. With a range, I pop open the door, and move the pan from the range to the oven and done.

Most hoods appropriate for a 48" range would require active makeup air, not passive (the code requires air replacement at the same rate you exhaust, so hoods that are exhausting air at the rate required for a 48" range can't be replaced without mechanical help). Note that makeup air codes change almost yearly so what was fine 5 years ago has probably changed. If you are going for that level of range, you should do the appropriate ventilation regardless of what others have done. Some people live in areas that are not governed by codes, or have inspectors that either don't understand these requirements or don't care to enforce them. Maybe you are in one of those areas. It's still important that you know what should be done and what the risks are if you don't do it. This is especially true in new construction (And before selecting a 48" range, go through ALL of the associated costs. Get your HVAC guy in on it.)

Either way if you want it, have the money to do it, and do it right, go for it.

A 48" range will need the hood to accommodate that size. Ideally the hood should be 54" wide, but many people have a 48" hood over a 48" range. A hood that is 48-54" wide means you will forego upper cabinets to fit the hood - we don't know if that is OK in your kitchen or not since you did not share your kitchen layout. We don't know from your OP what kind of cooking you do - will you need the 8 burners of a 48" range? How many cooktop burners do you use when you are most busy with cooking like at Thanksgiving? Most people find the 6 burners in a 36" cooktop to be enough.

Having said the above, many people love their 48" ranges. We need more info from you of why you want a 48" range besides "the look of a sturdy range".

Whatever you choose, make sure you have the correctly-sized ductwork for your hood. Indoor air quality has gained much greater importance in recent years. You cannot get by with the old 6" exhaust duct that is found in many homes (we don't know what size duct you have). You will need an 8" or 10" diameter duct for your hood, even if you decide on a 36" cooktop and wall ovens.

@lucky998877 Depending on code where you live, MUA is a requirement for any venthood over 600 cfm. And a 48" beast of a stove would want something at least that powerful.

If I had room for a 48" range, I would much prefer a 36" rangetop and double ovens. Or even a 36" range and another wall oven. A 36" range with a 42" hood will be "sturdy." A 48" range with a 54" hood will be massive, and that hood will be loud.

In my previous house I had a 48" Wolf dual fuel range and I also had a 24" Miele CSO XXL. I used the burners and the Miele CSO the most. I grill a lot of food outside and I'm not a baker. The 3 ovens were used for parties and I never used the griddle. The house could accommodate a large family, so the appliances chosen made sense for the house and location.

When we built last year for retirement, I went with a 36" Wolf Induction range and a 24" Miele CSO XXL. Should probably have done a 36" Induction cooktop, the CSO and another wall oven, but the range does look beefier in a large kitchen!

Do what works best for your family, the house and your local RE market

IMO no one needs a 48" range unless they cook for 20 3x a day.

Agree. Practicality dictates that no single-family home needs a range 80% my height. Once you put in something this big, the rest of the kitchen balloons up with it. Build for every day -- not the couple times a year you have a blow-out party.

My question would be, how does all of this work in your layout? Can you entertain other combinations? I find that the older I get the more I am thinking of doing a wall oven and cook top because I really don't like to bend over for heavier things like roasts or turkey.

You said you like the look of a sturdy range - that's just design - find the brand that is most appealing. Pick the size that suits your cooking needs.

I would suggest a 36" range and a wall oven with microwave above it. That would take care of everything.

Good luck!

@latifolia I never said that I don't have MUA. I have a large home, the passive system works great, and passes code. I have a 1200 cfm hood...and I'm married to a very experienced GC so I think that I got it covered ;) Just because I have 7 burners and a 1200 cfm hood does NOT mean that all of my burners are being used, or that I have to blast the hood at full power. OP asked "who has a 48"...most people answering do not. So, just keep on repeating the info that you have read here...she asked for opinions. I gave mine. I didn't NEED to have a new kitchen, or anything that I chose for it...I WANTED it all, so shoot me. None of my neighbors with their Wolf and Thermador ranges and powerful hoods (that were installed before MUA was enforced) have dropped dead, go figure. Please keep America free to choose, starting to sound a lot like Europe where you can't even soon pass gas without approval from everyone (yeah, I'm European...I know).

I believe that no one needs to be telling other people what they should or shouldn't buy for their kitchen or house! If they can afford it and it makes them happy, then go for it. We all choose to spend our money on different things, so I wouldn't be too quick to judge others or impose your own personal choices on them.

People post here because they're unsure of what they want. All opinions, even those you don't like, are valid. I've read plenty of posts here in which people have said, "Yeah, I was going overboard. Time to reign it in and be practical." Opinions -- take 'em or leave 'em.
Yes, this is an expensive luxury, by the time all of the things you do not think about are added up. This is not something where a high/low mix of choices really works either. This is a high/high choice. TV shows are not at realistic about true renovation costs.

This was what I mean when I said this choice can force other parts of the reno to "blow up".

Agree, TV shows are a poor place to source costs.

Price isnt the main thing- im curious- do you like one small and one large? what can you put in the small? thanks!

The only pro-style gas range that received a recommended rating from CR was the 30" Monogram ZGP304NTSS ($5600). The similar 36" Monogram ZGP366NTSS ($7100) and 48" Monogram ZGP486NDTSS ($11000) are available but at substantially higher prices. You may want to check out the 36" Cafe CGY366P2TS1 ($5900). Monogram and Cafe are both GE Appliance brands.

AGA offers a 48" AMC48INinduction range (~$9000) but if you look at the cooktop you'll see that it doesn't offer anything that a 36" cooktop would offer; the elements are just more spread out. A 36" Frigidaire Professional PCFI3670AF ($5850) induction range is a comparative bargain.

@lucky998877- do you miss havung two ovens? or use small one more? any advice! thanjs

@alsarfan I don't miss the 2 ovens BUT that's because of my style of cooking. I enjoy the small oven for its ability to preheat so quickly, chicken nuggets etc for kids are quick to make. During the holidays I have oval glass dishes that fit there well for casseroles etc. I bought an extra rack (mine came with only 1) so I can do 2 small trays at a time. My family is large, so I use the standard size oven more...a 7.25qt Le Creuset is my favorite, and I use large cookie sheets for roasting potatoes and veggies. So I would say that for me, the small oven does exactly what I wanted it for...extra space for smaller side dishes that required a different temperature, or for quick lunch options for the kids. Just be true to yourself...you know how you use your kitchen :)

Have you had the opportunity to see range options in person? I would take measurements of your casserole dishes , lasagna pans, pie plates, etc and go see if the second oven is a size that would work for the things you like to cook/bake/roast.

I am on the opposite side from you - I question if I even need an oven! I use an electric roaster for turkey and roasts and my toaster oven for other stuff. I don't need to cook alot. This is why it is important to make sure you get what you need to function.

I hope you can figure out what is best!

Do you have 2 ovens now? do you use them? i think thats the best measurement of whether you need them not what other people think. most people i know do not need 2 ovens. i’d love to be able to roast veggies on 4 full sized sheet pans so would want a double oven because i would do that a few times a month. other than that sometimes thanksgiving and would not be worth it.

I got a thermador 48” duel fuel with a steam oven, a wall oven, and 48” Faber island hood with a 1200 cfm blower. And my house is not a 2.5 million dollar home. I love to cook! And I’m constantly using the oven. I say, do it!! It’ll be worth it if you have the money for it and cook often

I can tell you from a TON of kitchen and clients? A 36 inch Monogram is worth every single penny. Do you need more? Not unless you want a second FULL size oven.

Forty eight inches is a statement, but in reality, you far over pay for a second oven barely big enough for a large casserole dish.

I have NO client disappointed with that 36 inch Monogram - some have written than you notes- and one client to the appliance shop declaring it a "veritable machine!" .........: )

She is a non stop cook, who literally lives in her kitchen.

BTW......that 36 inch Monogram is ALSO a visual "statement" : )

Bluestar 48inch range has a smaller oven that fits a regular size sheet pan. We actually use the smaller oven more than the larger oven.

Every time there is a post about somone wanting a 48 inch range we hear the same thing ”no one needs a 48 inch range”. Well no one needs expensive tile backsplashes or expensive quartzite counters either. Painted drywall works just fine for a backsplash as does laminate for counters.

We're downsizing from 5400 SF SFR to a 2000 SF condo, but DW still doing a lot of cooking, so downsizing from a 60" CC range (6 burners + 24" griddle) to a 48" Bluestar. No, she's not a caterer, but cooking is a passion and a stress relief after work.

I'm certain the "no one needs a 48" range" folks are being emphatic, not patronizing. And while they may be right, how many of us only buy things we NEED? ;) In my wife's case, she uses mostly woks, dutch ovens and pots much larger than 11" in diameter, meaning she could use – at most – 3 burners at a time on a 36" (in a "V" shape). Even 48" ranges with 4 contiguous gas burners would net her 2 simultaneous usable burners, so we're very careful to avoid those. So in our case, we don't NEED a 48" range, but it's pretty close, LOL. And that should be enough.

@alsarfan, do what will bring you joy. Of course human beings are terrible at forecasting our future happiness outcomes, but let's hope you're right and a 48" sturdy range WILL bring you joy! LOL

Just a nit -- The air flow rate of the hood system always equals that of the total make-up air supply -- MUA system plus any open windows, etc. The difference between passive MUA (no blower) and active MUA (deliberate blower) is that the passive MUA will cause the hood system to operate at a reduced flow rate and may allow household interior pressures to drop causing combustion appliance back-drafting. Hence, what code enforcement should be looking for is back-drafting risk. This risk can be avoided by having such appliances operate with their own MUA, or with an air supply isolated from that of the kitchen, or by not having any such appliances.

You will be using less wall space by going with a 48 with 2’ovens and no wall ovens. its a great setup and has all u need to feed a large group with ease!

95% of appliance people have no idea.

MUA for safety. The large draw of CFM (>400) outside of the home has the possibility to create a back drafting issue for water heater, furnace, fireplace etc. As homes get tighter, this becomes issue. Passive ducts and certainly suffice as the fan draw would likely balance and pull air from the passive (near kitchen) before affecting the static near the back drafted appliance.

MUA for IndoorAirQuality. Bringing in CFM to replace outgoing CFM will greatly differ if you have the same unit in different locations in the space. There is a design element to this. Very very very few people understand the dynamics and do it well. The goals of safety should be first, then up-effort the design for IAQ, if you are a heavy user and are concerned with air quality above the back drafting issue.

MUA dumping into return air duct. Many are suggesting that you dump the MUA into a return duct with a passvie duct. Your homes supply fan is likely not a variable speed fan and will supply a constant stream of air. Not a fan. If it is, the fan is likely controlled to product a min of CFM. This would suffice if they pulled through the return, but it would seem that you are implementing the same thing, just asking the HVAC to work harder to accommodate.

My code says that I have to have a MUA for safety...because I have a gas water heater in the basement. Its the only appliance with a back drafting concern. If it was my only concern, I would put a passive damper into the basement near the appliance and isolate any need for the waterheater. The inspector looked at me like I invented fire when I suggested this.

There is code, but its not well throught out or substantiated.

Our previous house built in 2001 had a 48 inch wolf range with no makeup air. There was no code and we didn't know anything about MUA. We did open a window when using the hood.

In current house we have passive MUA. There is some sort of switch assembly in the ductwork of the hood that is wired to a motorized fresh air damper. When the hood goes on the damper will open to allow fresh air in. It had to be a minimum of 3 feet away from the hood. We did not have many places to place the damper.

We have a propane tankless water heater but I believe it has it's own air intake. We have a wood stove which has an outside air kit. Dryer is electric and heating and air is a heat pump. So i think we would be okay as far as back drafting. Plus we live in a log cabin which is not tight at all.

I included a picture of where our MUA comes in. Ignore the mess. This was from 5 1/2 years ago and we were unpacking from just moving in. You can see the vent up above the doorway and see where the hood is. The duct for our hood is 12 inches. The fresh air duct is also 12 inches.

The only question one might ask is what is the pressure loss of the MUA register (plus that of any MUA heating means and MUA path filtering) vs. the negative pressure that any connected (by air paths) combustion appliances might back-draft at. As you note, in your case the back-draft risk is slight.

As a test, one might operate the hood at full power and check for air leaks around switches, windows and doors. The negative aspects of infiltration through walls carrying dust and insulation particles might not apply to a log cabin.

Overall pressure loss through the MUA path plus that through the hood system path will determine the operating point on the hood blower fan curve, and hence what the actual CFM will be. As a WAG, assume 2/3 of rated free air flow rate.