Hendricus, I'm not sure we'd be successful--probably somebody would get carried away. Also, whatever this is, it's a seep, not a stream. it's happening INSIDE somewhere. Brody, that's not a bad idea--but I just applied one of those "caulking" strips, and it still *looks* pretty well sealed. I'll remember it, though, when we get to the final "put it all back together" stage. No roof leaks, decker173; this is a second-floor apartment, and the water arrives after a shower, not after a rainstorm. I'm trying to get a hose that attaches to the tub spigot--but of course, if the valve is leaking, the hose won't help much. I don't know what other source of water to use, though--not sure how to get a hose to attach to the bathroom sink, and I can't get one long enough to reach around the apartment building, up to the second floor, and in to the bathroom. Well, maybe I could--but I'd need 2 floors worth of hose. I tried testing the assumption that this is splash water from the wall, that runs down to the tub, and then out and over the edge (bcs there's a tiny slant to the tub). So I caulked a dam at the edge of the tub. Water has built up there, but it's not THAT much, and the pathway down is still wet. I'm justing having a hard time believing that THAT much dampness can arrive on the wall below the tub from THAT source. I *finally* got DH to agree to take the escutcheon plate off the valve part of the fixture, to see if the valve is leaking. It turns out that, since there was no water or wetness or anything behind the cement board, he thought that meant it couldn't be the valve. So I'll try that. Once I said, "of course not; the cement board is impervious, no water CAN get behind it. But it can run down the FRONT of it, between the cement board and the Swanstone."

Belatedly, and clumsily, OP is providing a small layout of my small bath. Because I have been possessed by a Luddite demon, I cannot get any labeling to adhere to this bloody image. The room is 88" long and 66" wide. The ceiling is 9 ft. Working from the top: the pocket door is 28" wide. on the left wall,the shower pan is 54" x 30" and the thing under the window is a 10" x 30" x 40" tall pull out storage cabinet under the window, tiled like the shower. the window sill is 48" inches off the floor; the double hung window is 24" x 48" on the right wall, the vanity is 31" by 18" on the wall between the storage thing and the toilet there will be a teak towel ladder. It will be hung couple inches from the wall, on sturdy hooks, so that I can remove it when I need to pull out the storage thing. If the plan I have proposed in http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/4662069/pull-down-shower-screen-redux-what-can-rube-goldberg-do?n=2 can be made to work, a fake beam will run across the ceiling from just left of the pocket door to just right of of the window. It will hide some kind of roll up shade/shower screen when the screen is retracted. I do apologize for how ill-presented this is. Now I am going to email my physician to see how I can get my brain PET-scanned for plaques and tangles, before I forget.

Looks like I am hijacking this thread! :-) Mostly, I love the look of the bathroom above, but it also fits the Universal Design idea – right? It sounds like staying warm is the main drawback and I am willing to ditch the idea if necessary. However, I would like to explore ideas for keeping the room warm. I like the idea of warm floors, but not sure of the cost, and some of you don’t think this will work. I like the idea of a baseboard heater if that would work, but what about something dedicated to the task? What about a Fan/Heat combination like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJUKZS/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=190489761596&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4158767817143482295&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031150&hvtargid=kwd-295772741219&ref=pd_sl_fbqrluz4i_b#customerReviews What about heated towel bars – might they help?

@btydrv Interesting you should mention that. At one point, I considered taking another 31 inches from the master bedroom closet, moving the shower to where the toilet is now and enlarging it 42" x 66". Then, I would have room for a double vanity. But, the toilet was directly across from the door, which both DH and I disliked immensely. If I put the vanity on the wall with the window, I wouldn't have much room for a mirror above it--I think it would look rather choppy. Do I then make modifications to the window as well? I'm not sure how that would look and the heating vent would most likely need to move (it's under the window). I also like having the closet space. @thinkdesignlive thank you for the link to the Houzz article. I had not seen that one! We live in the San Francisco bay area, so it's pretty warm most of the time, so I'm not sure that heated tile is necessary, but it might be a nice feature since everything would be ripped up on the floor anyways. I will consider doing the curbless shower again. This also means a floating vanity. @joseph_corlett: that's a great idea--at least I would have a place to put my leg up and shave :-). I still do like the bench for stability reasons as mentioned by btydrv.