Hi Kelly Feil, glad they were helpful! The color on the second image is Friendly Yellow. As for your hinge question, you have to break it into two parts. The visual aspect, and the functionality aspect. Visual is easy, either they fit the design of the kitchen, and you like them, or you prefer not to see hinges. (There is no wrong answer!) As to function, the main difference is, generally speaking, a visible hinge will have a wider degree of swing. A hidden hinge (commonly called a European hinge) will open less. Depending upon the manufacturer, a range of 105-120 degrees (versus 180 degree possibility of a visible hinge) There are hidden hinges with even wider swings then 120 degrees, but they are bulkier, take up more space, and generally used in corner cabinet applications. And if your cabinet doors ever need adjusting, both types of hinges allow up-down, in-out as needed. (Well, we are speaking for our visible hinge, we can't speak for other manufacturers!) Lastly, it doesn't sound like a frame and panel door would be a good fit for you. (You mentioned not liking intersecting lines) Perhaps a slab door is something you might want to consider. Good luck on your project!

The latest issue, the backsplash. Can it stay? I received a sample of the door and drawer fronts in the style and color I ended up ordering, and I had the paint color and sheen matched so that I can start painting the old maple boxes to accommodate the replacement door and drawer fronts. (As you know, the new wall unit will be ordered prepainted from the factory.) Anyhow, the new issue is whether the backsplash can stay. I have to fix a few grout areas that cracked and replace two tiles, but I'm inclined to keep it. It's the carrara-like subway 2"x4" tiles from Lowes, which are not expensive ($10 per square foot), but the labor will be more than I want to spend. Let me know if you think it has to go. I've included below pictures of the peninsula boxes, which I've painted already and the new door as well as pictures of the door with the backsplash and counter so that you can see the contrast. Keep in mind that my wall color will be Benjamin Moore Mount Saint Ann in Aura's kitchen/bath paint (a special scrubbable, moisture and mildew resistant matte paint)--the same paint I used in my bathroom above: Also keep in mind that I'm replacing the range with a Dacor Dr30DNG, which I just bought, and likely replacing the over the range microwave/vent with a standard pro style hood like this: Here are the new paint/cabinet photos:

Full overlay is not necessarily for "more beauty wood" nor is it the same as frameless (both comments I saw above). Framed cabinets (with the frame around the opening) can be partial overlay, full overlay, or inset. Frameless cabinets have no frame around the opening - it's just the walls. Frameless cabinets offer more storage space than framed. They are not offered by all cabinet manufacturers or custom cabinetmakers. . For looks (form), "full overlay" does look more high-end and, IMHO, nicer. However, sometimes "partial" is fine since, as someone mentioned, some have less empty space around the doors than others, Some partials do not have stiles in the middle of wider cabinets (like Lenzai's picture above), while others so. I will note that in some case partial can be better b/c you don't need as much filler since the doors open well within the cabinet space. (Full overlay doors often open on the edge of the cabinet so in corners, for example, filler is needed.) In our kitchen, all but one cabinet is full overlay. The corner sink base is partial and eliminated the need for filler b/w the corner cabinets and the adjacent cabinets on each side. If you are OK or like the look of "partial overlay" and would rather spend the 5K on more functionality - then do it! Since this is a new build, I assume you will be in the house for many years to come, so don't plan for resale b/c you don't know what will be the current fad when you sell (unless you have a reliable crystal ball or you are a precog!) BTW....unless we know where you live, the cost of homes does not tell us anything. Where I live, the #s you stated are for mid-level homes and either partial or full would be fine in them. In other areas, those #s might be for high-end homes or for low-end homes!

You can do that set up cheaper than you are thinking. The more you are able to shop for reslae, savage and such (Habitat REstore is just one known nationwide, but every area has local versions too), but you can also search online for sink deals. Doen't look like you would want a 30-36 inch kitchen sink, but a smaller one. I saw one recently for $4-600? I'll try to see if I can still find it. That is likely to be your biggest cost item. You can look at remnant or prefab counters for that small, straight space. Shelving and cabinets can be very basic paint them yourself variety -- or even reclaimed If that's what you really want, get the floor taken care of and shop until you find options to fit the budget that makes it happen. And you can hide the connections instead of moving them. If we take ours off the pedestals at some point and try the counter above, I think I would build out a shallow cabinet (4-6 inches?) with sliding doors and oune could be an access panel to the connections. The idea would be to have just enough space to put laundry supplies so I could use the upper cabinets for other things. That's either DIY or paying someone to do someting unusual, which is sometimes reasonable and sometimes $$$.