Hi, I just set up 4 different LED models and compared them to traditional incandescent and CFLs -- see my other recent thread. We preferred the kit to the regular bulb and baffle. The sealed front was nice. Look into the startup time... The Home Depot 620 lumen model had a 1 second delay when starting up, so we ruled that one out. It was also the least light output and cost a lot for that low output. We felt they were all very pleasant light. The only one we didn't like was the CFL. 2700k was indeed a bit warmer and 3000k was a bit whiter. We liked the slightly whiter color in all cases. More glare? No, not at all. IC / Non IC means the (cans) are rated for insulation contact or they are not. If they are going in an insulated joist they have to be IC, otherwise it doesn't matter. Overall we liked the Menards kit best, it was made by Feit Electric and had a flat translucent plate across the front instead of a bulb-like reflector like the HD models. We didn't try the Lowes model, cuz we found one we liked and didn't feel we had to research further -- altho I'm keeping them all till our dimmers come in to see how well they dim. This was all just personal preference. Get a couple and try them, then take back the ones you decide against. -mike

Our can lights are Cooper. (See above) In the GW world, most use the Cree We went with cooper for 3 reasons 1. I made an error putting in 5 inch cans as I thought I would use bulbs which fit the 5 inch best - but decided I wanted the trim kits as the light is less harsh than bulbs- I hated our old bulbs as well 2. The Cree trim kit only fits the 4 and 6 inch cans- but the Cooper fits a 5 or 6 inch can. 3. I did not use a box store but a lighting store. They were very helpful and I could see different options in action. I felt their time was worth a few extra dollars. The carried the Cooper brand plus many bulb types. This was early in the renovation process and I was just discovering GW The cooper only came in the 3000k - but DH preferred the whiter light. They dim nicely- down to 5% but it does look brighter than 5% Maybe my eyes are getting older(I am sure this is not true) but love having lots of light options in the kitchen (also gave UCL and a lighted cabinet) I have most of the cans on one dimmer with the over sink on a second dimmer. I do have decorative lights in the center (on a dimmer also) which are standard incandescent bulbs for now. My former boss didn't like them the first time she saw them but by the second time - she thought they were great- I adjusted the dimming ahead of time so when I turned them on - it was not a full blast experience. Most will like them but some won't - see if you have a lighting center in the area. Just spend time making your decision. LEDs are expensive so you want to be happy with your choice. Let us know what you do :-) Cryptic and typos from iPhone

Thank you so much for the comments! Yes, I researched the lutron Caseta Wireless and it is fantastic! Steve I understand where you are coming from, but in my situation where I wasn't around much for our build (I have a demanding seasonal job in Nebraska) i wasn't able to specify some things. Although, as my wife put it, a lot of it seemed to be common sense (like only having one location to turn on our great room lights and its in a corner, along with two other situations that are similar. In this situation, the areas where wire would need to be run would require ruining a lot of freshly painted drywall. The lutron caseta doesn't require a smart hub it can work stand alone with the provided pico remote, but if you want bells and whistles and want to control it with the lutron smart app or apple home kit (yes i tell siri to dim the lights for me) than you can with the purchase of lutrons smart bridge for 79.99 more. The in wall dimmer switch with remote is $60, smart bridge $80, or bundles together for $100. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-Starter-P-BDG-PKG2W/dp/B01M3XJUAD/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1516080745&sr=1-3&keywords=lutron+smart+bridge

@montmurf correct, I meant the very thin wafer type with remote junction box, no real can whatsoever. I checked with a local licensed electrician and he said it was totally fine even without the mounting plate, and we asked him to help us do the rewiring. He did a great job! I simply cut holes in the new drop ceiling tile with an adjustable hole saw and popped in the lights connecting them to the junction box (simple screw on connection). Our local electrical code does not require the remote j-boxes to be mounted but some do, so make sure you check yours out before proceeding. Lithonia lighting told me the mounting plates are there to just provide extra support if the tiles you have aren't especially strong and also to provide a place to mount the remote j-box; they are not required in all applications, depending on the local electrical code. I don't think it hurts to do it either way. Using the mounting plates would give you extra peace of mind though, especially if your tiles are flimsy. I used Lumawash tiles from Armstrong and they have been great. Been running the wafer lights for about 2 months now, no issues thus far, but I'll pop back in with a summer update too.