I am not an expert, but that doesn't stop me from having an opinion. (grin) I use an oil based primer when I am working on old exterior wood. And I use a slow dry oil based primer. But for something that will never be exposed to the elements and isn't old wood, I'm not so sure oil primer is going to make this paint project significantly better. I use Cabinet Coat for trim work. It is satin finish, though, not high gloss. You don't need to prime prime bare wood before applying Cabinet Coat - or maybe it is more correct to say that the first coat of CC is the primer. Here is a link that might be useful: Cabinet Coat

These windows are made of "Fibrex" which is Andersen's PVC and sawdust composite material that is also used in synthetic deck materials like Trex and for the sash cladding and applied muntins of Andersen's 400 Series Woodwright double-hung windows. The most annoying thing about these windows is that they won't tell you if they are the "full frame" or the "insert" type of replacement windows and how they are installed. Insert windows are installed inside the existing frame and can be unsightly. Full frame windows require replacing the trim so they are more expensive. Andersen also offers both types in their 400 series PVC clad wood windows. Make them give you details of how the windows will be installed. I believe they play it close to the vest because Andersen expects these windows to be sold by the installers directly to homeowners without a design professional involved and they therefore want to leave the details to the retailer installer. I believe this process gives the installer too much control over the design and installation detailing and I have never trusted any contractor to put the homeowner's interests over that of their own much less actually know how to properly install a window without oversight. Call me a cynic. I don't have to tell you that the replacement window industry has been frought with fraud and misrepresentation for many decades. Marvin makes an Infinity fiberglass version and but they too keep the details to themselves. I would prefer fiberglass to PVC is the features are the same, especially the applied muntins and spacer bars. I'll look at my Andersen and Marvin catalogs and see if the details of these replacement windows are included.

I would also look into different ceiling installation options because 118" will need at least a couple of middle supports if you installed on the sides.... 96" is a very manageable ht to diy! I have regular sized sliders (that are recessed about the same amount as yours except with a lot of molding around them) that I hung a tension like curtain rod on except it is mounted on both sides... I hung open weave linen sheers on them and almost always keep them pulled to cover just one half... anyway, I couldn't have used the center supports with this rod even if I wanted to because I have the rod hung tight near the top like you need to do-- in my case it works because I only have sheers hanging, so less wt and i don't close them too often, so very little tugging on the rod...

Hey There: You would need motorized shades for sure. If you do have power at the windows you can get hard wired units, if not, use lithium-ion rechargeable battery motors that last up to 9 months on a single charge. Then you just plug a small cable in and you are good to go again.