Winter structure of trees
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
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last yearViburnumValley central KY Bluegrass z6
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suggestion for specimen tree that looks good winter/spring/fall
Comments (6)I get tired of all my plants putting on their best show in spring, so i enjoy something that appeals at other times. One that I enjoy is Heptacodium. It flowers late, and is very attractive to bees; always some action on the tree. It has kind of cool peeling bark as well as an attractive branch structure. Once it is done flaowering, the red bracts are often attractive on the tree well into fall. Its foliage is otherwise unspectacular and fall colour is just yellow. Hamamelis cultivars ('Diane' or 'Jelena' for instance) bloom very early, in January here, and are spectacular when they catch the afternoon winter sun. In summer they fade into the background with just green leaves, but have spectacular autumn colour. They sucker too, though, but the suckers are just right at the base. Many plants commonly grown as shrubs can be trained as trees. I've seen Purple Smoke bushes that are trees, and I also have a Hibiscus syriacus (rose of sharon) 'Red Heart' that is trained as a tree, and again, because it flowers late in the season, it is always a much appreciated feature. The bees love it too, and the grey branches make it an attractive winter presence. Vitex is another shrub that can be a tree, also spectacular late in the season. KarinL...See MoreTree recommendation for dramatic winter form
Comments (32)Pam Chesbay, I am not sure about the London Planetrees in your area. I have only seen the one at MSU in Lansing, just was struck by the beautiful shape and look. I checked my Dirr book, and it said London Planes are greatly successfull in all kinds of ground and locations, as are the Sycamores. This would be why they make such successful street trees with pollution to live in. Dirr did say they need lots of room, and drop a lot of foliage and seeds. So they were not their best near homes. Kind of contradictory reading. Not sure where you will find them, but a search should turn up something. I would sure give them a try if I had room. The only possible place would be next to the neighbors hedgerow of pines. Would be funny to see who grew the tallest and shaded out whom. Probably would not live that long though! I think the first few years of new plantings are always the most difficult. Trees struggle, take time to get comfortable in their new settings. I try to keep mine watered well, even if I have to haul it for them. The smallest ones seem to get with it a bit faster, but you have longer to wait on them for size. Also have to protect them from the rabbits around here. Deer have plenty to eat in unworked farm land, so far not bothering my plantings and young trees. If you have the space, go for it! Plant several if you can, bound to have a failure now and again, even with the best care. There is another thread starting on London Planetrees, though he is looking for specific kinds. Maybe it will give some sources as folks comment and add knowledge. Your effort to add trees is commendable, and such nice trees too....See MoreStoring potted trees for winter
Comments (10)overwintering pots in your z8.. has little of nothing to do with the same.. in z5 ... if you freeze the roots into an ice cube... because your media does not drain properly .. even when frozen ... then trees in pots die ... roots need air.. as much as moisture.. especially in winter .... IMHO .. proper media is imperative.. in the great white north .. it really doesnt matter what he does ... if his media is improper ... and yes.. i have inserted pots into banks of wood chips ... for winter protection.. works rather well ... but my pots had proper media ... which was 50% wood chips and 50% promix ... another thing about his tenting method ... i like to say.. get them dormant.. keep them dormant ... and you usually win ... but when i tried putting them in the pole barn ... in my z5 MI .. i found out.. the hard way.. two things ... first ... the barn was at least a z7 ... accumulating heat.. in sun in mid winter ... and no winds.. etc ... meaning things came out of dormancy a month to 6 weeks early .... and then died getting hit with repeated frosts and freezes .... but also... unlike last winter.. if we have some bizarre mid winter warm spell ... again... the pots MIGHT come out of dormancy ... in the middle of winter ... many plants have little sense of humor about doing such.. repeatedly .... especially in a zone.. where 8 hours later.. it can be back below zero ... i just keep wondering.. in his need to baby them.. he isnt really adding so many variables .... he is actually making it harder than it should be ... i mean.. i would agree.. that keeping them out of winter wind is a plus... but hermetically sealing them in a small hut.. might be problematic ... and if he had problems before.. why is he doubling down.. and increasing his variables???? he might have better luck.. if he simply tipped the pots on their sides... after dormancy.. and letting a snow bank cover them ... and be done with it ... presuming it snows in canada.. lol .. or better yet.. do half one way.. and half another... but dont do what failed last time ... eh??? ken...See MorePalm Tree Winter Protection
Comments (55)v1rtu0slty, I would probably keep your young palm plant in the house for two or three years if you have a sunny window, until the plant gets a little bigger before planting it outside. Older plants seem to be hardier. Or find a larger plant at a local nursery or garden center in your area. Occasionally they will sell the Windmill and Mediterranean fan palms. I bought all of my outdoor palms as one gallon size plants and kept them inside for a couple of years before planting outside. The Windmill palm is supposed to be the hardiest, but the Mediterranean fan palms are almost as hardy. They have all survived outside with no problem. I don't believe light is required to get them to survive since they go dormant with the colder temperatures. The flourescent light bulbs that I use are for a small heat source. In zone 5, I'm not sure if an insulated box will work with no heat source. You'd be surprised how much heat builds up in a tightly made styrofoam box from the light bulbs. Good luck! Kevin...See Morececily 7A
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5Original Author