Try a cork underlayment with a Pergo or DuPont laminate floor with foam. DuPont Elite already has the foam attached, and it is an in-stock item at Home Depot. I just installed it in my coop in NYC because I wanted to minimize the sound to my neighbor below me in a room that I wanted to use as a work room/yoga/workout room. Prior to laying down the cork, my contractor screwed down all the squeaky boards on the existing old, oak floors. Google Pergo, DuPont Elite, and cork underlayment and you'll find useful information that may work for you. I donÂt plan to jump around but I wanted to deaden the sound as much as possible. A sprung floor (raised and on thick pieces of foam) would be the best sound insulation, but your floor would be raised so high that most of your doors would have to be cut down to open. I wanted a sprung floor, but the doors situation was a problem and it was 2-3 times the price of the DuPont Elite laminate. I wanted to use Pergo, but couldn't find it in stock anywhere and I needed it ASAP. If you want wood, this may not be the solution for you, but laminate was fine for me as it is for one room that I intend to use as a rec/work/work-out room. Note that laminates can have a clacky sound, but the cork does deaden the sound quite a lot so I think the person below won't hear it as much.

The cheapest method of reducing sound transfer (it will not be sound proof) after eliminating connecting leaks like utility and HVAC penetrations and put two layers of drywall on the ceiling, is to suspend the drywall ceiling on some kind of resilient system. The cheapest system is 1/2" deep resilient metal channels. I use this system on all ceilings below a habitable floor. Here is a link to resilient metal channels at Home Depot (the channel is shown upside down). Be careful to not screw the ceiling boards to the joists. It also helps to use a rubber like resilient layer below the underlayment or finish wood flooring in the room above. Of course, wall to wall carpeting is also helpful not necessarily for music but the sound of foot traffic. Filling the floor cavity with insulation absorbs some sound but more importantly it prevents sound from traveling horizontally from a crack above to a crack below. Any kind of insulation will have essentially the same effect but mineral wool would probably be the most cost effective if installed tight to the joists. Spray foam has the advantage of sealing cracks but I doubt it is more effective. If there are recessed lights in the ceiling the housings must be rated for insulation contact (IC) and the permitted lamp output may be reduced. Of course, recessed lights would be a ceiling penetration so you should avoid them altogether.

Besides all the techniques noted in the above thread, there are a number of speciality products for floors and particularly intersecting building planes, i.e., walls, floors, ceilings. (Co. link is for illustration only.) As leading researchers have noted, flanking pathways defeat the best laid plans. In one home I built, the heating ducts were like a speaker phone between the kid's basement play room and a second-floor bedroom. Separate HVAC systems by floor was a design that would have cured that. A designer friend gave me a tour of a Swiss bank headquarters under construction in a downtown high rise. The board room was entirely lead-lined. If you're prepared to spend serious money on sound-deadening, consider hiring an acoustical consultant.

www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/1509173-soundproofing-master-thread.html%3famp=1 The AVS Soundproofing master thread has more info on soundproofing than we can possibly put here.