Ecosmart is not a manufacturer; rather it is a Home Depot house brand (rather like Kenmore and Craftsman are for Sears), and Ecosmart-branded light bulbs are made by several different manufacturers. Some of the more prominent manufacturers include their brand name and logo on the box, others have no mention of the real manufacturer beyond something like "made in China for Home Depot". The aforementioned Ecosmart 16w 950-lumen "90w equivalent" is made by Lighting Science Group, and their claims for incandescent-bulb substitution don't seem that out of line to me. Let's look at General Electric's 65 watt BR40 floodlamp bulb - a mere 730 initial lumens, and only 2000 hours rated bulb life. I believe 90 watt BR40 incandescent bulbs were phased out several years ago to meet gov't regulations in favor of slightly more efficient halogen reflector bulbs, but I found a few web sites that still list discontinued products. Here's GE's old 90 watt BR40 incandescent floodlamp. 1000 initial lumens, 2000 hour rated bulb life. That's only slightly brighter than the 950 lumens claimed for the Ecosmart/Lighting Science BR40, and even if the LED's light output declines with use, so does an incandescent blown-glass floodlamp (which tend to darken over time), and keep in mind when the incandescent bulb is almost about to burn out, the LED bulb still has over 90% of its rated life remaining, and is probably still at near-initial brightness. My own eyeballs tell me it's as about as bright as they claim. Remember that the "90w equivalent" is referring to a regular 90w incandescent, not a 90w halogen (and certainly not the newer breed of high-efficiency halogen bulbs like GE's Halogen-IR line - GE makes an excellent 60w PAR38 Halogen-IR wide-flood bulb with 1050 lumens, 3000 hour rated life, and a precise, even beam spread from its separate glass lens and aluminized reflector. 100 CRI of course, dims as well as any incandescent bulb, and stays at full brightness for the life of the bulb.)

More confusion. Dim4fun says gfi is only required in shower for light and/or fan. Do all bath fixtures require gfi as it seems ginger light is saying? Omigosh, I am just going to use candles. :-] Maybe this isn't as confusing as it appears- perhaps I am not reading posts correctly, but it seems like everyone is contradicting each other. In a bathroom, where water is not going to touch a fixture, as in the vanity area or a sconce on a wall not close to a shower, is any fixture regardless of rating okay to use??? Are ratings totally voluntary as it seems gingerlight is saying? Is dampness from normal shower activity, i.e. steam or condensation, not a problem for fixtures rated for use in dry area? I really have considered looking just at outdoor fixtures, so I know they can be used near the tub (where there is no shower and the closest to the water they will be is 4 ft above water line and 1.5 ft away from edge of tub (4 ft below). Or can I use a dry rated fixture there? Anyone? Thanks, Your "dense" rated sister!

An LED light belongs where the hard edge shadows and color of the light on skin is tolerable and the light is on long enough to take advantage of the lower energy use. None of these conditions exists in a shower.

Incorrect... Non wet or damp rated pendants ARE allowed above the shower, however the bottom of the fixture MUST be more than 8'-0" ABOVE the top rim of the shower. They CANNOT be less than 8'-0" above the rim. ie: your shower stall is 10'-0" tall. The code requires an EXTRA 8'-0" of clearance, this brings the height to 18'-0" The pendant, cord connected fixture, etc. CANNOT be located between the 10'-0" mark and the 18'-0" mark but MUST be mounted higher. A pendant fixture mounted at 19'-0" above the finished floor over the shower would pass. Granted the inspector would take out his measuring tape to make sure. This just means the ceiling directly over your shower has to be a minimum of 21'-0", depending on the pendant length. Some homes DO have this height...