It's your choice whether to move it inside or start over in the spring. Zone 7 can get pretty cold, right? And this is in a container? To save it over, your best bet is to let it stay outside until the first freeze (hopefully not below 26o or so) kills the top. Cut it back ALL THE WAY. Move it into a storage room or garage or other sheltered area. If it gets much below 26o, in a container, the roots will die. Water it when it becomes extremely dry. Move it back out when the night temps are 60o or above, and start watering again. Also hit it with fertilizer when it begins to regrow.

Where has everyone gone? At latitude 34 South Brassidium Shooting Star 'Black Gold' would be grown high up near the shade-cloth getting all day sun filtered by 50% shade-cloth winter and two layers 50% shade-cloth summer. Sorry, thats the best i can do but note that some of the Brassia species need a lot of light to flower.

Tropical lowland Hoya species are ok with night time lows between 15 C and 10 C. Sensitive species would be best closer to 15C but I think these are the exception. Still some species will really let you know if they get too cold. As soon as you start dealing with species from the mountains/higher elevations they become much more tolerant of lower temperatures. Most of the Eriostemmas are from lowland habitats and they like it hot during the day and warm at night. It seems to be quite common for people to post photos of their Eriostemmas showing what looks like chlorosis. Chlorosis (lack of chlorophyll) is usually due to either an unhealthy root system or a nutrient (macro or micro) deficiency. Eriostemmas commonly grow in alkaline soils so my first guess is that the plant is not able to use nutrients properly if the potting mix is too acidic. Are you using anything to help adjust the pH? Crushed limestone, oyster shell, or dolomitic lime? The leaf in your photo does not really look chlorotic, at least there is still a lot of chlorophyll present. I wonder if in the case of your plant of this is not a fungal disease? Mike

I understand what you are saying John. I have been in the nursery business for over 50 years now and I know how things have changed over those decades. Sadly I also know how very outdated much of that info one can read online is. Add to that the need they feel they have to try to cover all points within a brief page length (so some will read it) and one finds all sorts of issues hidden between the lines. In the article you linked for example they skim lightly over the issues of "free of pathogens and seed-free", of "density and disease concerns", "hold nutrients well", etc. assuming the reader will know how to prevent all those issues - issues that kill more container plants than all other issues combined and so easily avoided by simply using a bagged already sterile mix. They make no mention of the size of containers and even imply these "mixes" will work in any container. They don't discuss how one is supposed to evaluate "density" or recognize what is good or bad density. They don't address HOW one is supposed to retain nutrients when daily watering is often needed. I could go on but but as I mentioned above all this is discussed and debated in infinite detail on the Container Gardening forum as it is only indirectly related to Growing Tomatoes. Bottom line - the choice of what to use is yours. I have tried them all over many years and IMO container mixes that incorporate coarse sand (except for succulents), top soil in any of its various forms, much less garden soil and even compost pose far more problems for plants grown in containers than any potential benefits they might have. Dave