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Appliances Design Dilemma Kitchens

Island hood under a 4:12 vaulted ceiling: how to mount

last year

We've a new build with the corner-kitchen arrangement like shown in the pics. A vent hood has a truss almost centered above.

Even without the truss location problem, there is the question of how to mount. All the hood makers include a mounting bracket assuming a flat ceiling. I thought a framed boxdown (a mini soffit) would give us what we want.

With the box, we can mount and hang from a level surface. Inside the box, we can angle the vent line to get by the truss chord.

We are stuck with this geometry, so need a solution. BTW, the client wants exactly this layout. No changes. I hate island hoods with tall stacks going up to vaulted ceilings.

Like the little soffit box? Got a better idea? That's why I'm here.

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Comments (10)

PRO
Sabrina Alfin Interiors
last year
Hmm. I can't answer your question, but I don't think I would have done a chimney hood with that high of a ceiling. The very long chimney looks awkward. Is it too late to change your layout and put the cooktop/range on the window wall? Then you could get a wall chimney hood or even do an insert hood inside a hood cabinet.
L A
last year
Awkward placement, I would install a down draft vent if you need the cook top in that location.
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Vaulted ceiling in kitchen? Anybody done this? Pics please!
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We are still designing our house (new construction) --- trying to get started this summer...but that is rapidly approaching. Here is a cad rendering of the front elevation --- stone in the center.... we've made several changes to the front, but here's the idea.... As far as the interior goes, floorplans are more or less done...Kitchen does not have lots of cabinets, but it has "zones" around it --- clean up area (we call the dish pantry), range area, island area, butler's pantry, etc. The kitchen will be one longish room with the keeping room (like the picture at the very top). I'm going to try to post the plan that we have so far.... I of course can't figure out how to make this bigger... grr. So you likely can't even see it anyway.... Anyway, I think the vault will look good in that kitchen / keeping room --- all the way --- the high point will be over the range wall and the fireplace. Still working on details to make sure we have accounted for how we live. I have in mind a white (creamy color) cabinet with a wood top on the island - like a dark walnut. One reason I'm now thinking the wood is because the island is all one level and it is 10-11 feet long and the granite with a seam I worry about. Plus, think the wood is beautiful. I'll probably go back and forth about this many many times before we get there. The little dish pantry area has an opening to the eat-in area, so we can pass dishes through there (and I can watch TV while doing dishes (over the FP). We'll put "barn doors" on rails outside the dish pantry so I can close the door on the mess! So far I am happy with it ---still so many details to work out, but it is very fun and exciting so far! Thanks again for sharing... Also, I love this last set of inspiration pics --- so many really great ones! Rachel
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You could think about cove lighting or some other kind of uplighting (a torchiere?). I was thinking about this if you did a light-colored, painted ceiling, but when I searched for pics on Houzz I found these examples: There are a number of examples of "what not to do" with uplighting if you do a Houzz search (I searched for "uplighting" in living room photos). One of the most common mistakes was having the light source focused on too small a section of ceiling, making a bright spot on the ceiling and not distributing light in a diffuse way. The second photo above does this a little bit, but the first photo really nails how to do it right.
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Comments (25)
Odor elimination requires complete capture and containment of cooking plumes. These plumes expand as they rise, deviate due to drafts from hot air furnaces and/or air conditioning, and spread due to turbulence from moving people in the area. Normal hoods are placed in the zone between 30 and 36 inches above the cooktop. That is, to 6 feet above the floor. Commercial hoods, usually larger in capture entry area, are typically set at 7 feet unless one counts ceiling systems. (See Heydal's ceiling for example: https://cms.esi.info/Media/documents/Brita_heydal_ML.pdf) One can always use a commercial system that grows appropriately at any height. However, these are not only large in plan view, but tall in elevation view. On top of this, you need to consider, or specify, what your ceiling and joist characteristics are and if there is an attic above or a living space. Wolf makes a ceiling mounted hood, and the descriptive information appears on pages 139 through 142 of the Wolf Design Guide, available at Wolf's web site. The available units are only 21 inches wide in the short dimension. I would consider this to be ineffective in capture of any significant plume such as hot oil cooking (searing and wok cooking). I'd want a 5 ft x 4 ft aperture at 8 feet up, and thus embedding a custom commercial hood into the ceiling would be necessary if buying three of the wolf 4-foot units wasn't practical. Also, please note, I've never seen one of these, and have no idea whether I would consider the design details acceptable. I would think that such a collection area would need 1500 CFM rated (1000 actual) if we assume significant degradation of plume upward velocity; even more would be required otherwise. Make-up air is required for this level of flow rate. Most locations will need heated MUA. With filtering, the MUA might be OK passive (without blower), but if there are any combustion appliances that are using air from a space connected to the kitchen then a blower-driven MUA will be needed. (MUA threads here may be viewed for background.) If you want to consider a commercial based hood as a likely better choice if there is an attic above the ceiling to fit it into, @opaone may come by and provide some additional information, including what I don't know for gas flame combustion products expanding potentially wider than the cooking plume and air quality effects resulting therefrom.
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vinmarks
last year
Cook top should have been moved off the island. There is also to much going on between the island and the fridge wall. I can't even imagine trying to cook at the island and have people coming in opening the fridge, using the microwave or opening the ovens. Maybe your client needs to visit houzz forums.

Downdrafts are useless.
chispa
last year
How far along is this build?
chispa
last year
Went searching for photos. Sorry, it just looks ugly ... a stainless steel shaft hanging from the ceiling isn't a great design element.

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PRO
Diana Bier Interiors, LLC
last year
Sounds like you need to give the client what he/she wants, but I agree with Sabrina and LA that it is not a great layout. I'd place the cooktop on the back wall with the ovens, move the microwave (drawer) to the island, and move the fridge at the end run of cabinets on the sink wall.
millworkman
last year
Since you are building this for a client, think about how they would feel knowing you are crowd sourcing their window package and kitchen functions?
kaseki
last year
last modified: last year
First, if the island can't be moved, then the trusses have to be moved -- either phased differently across the roof or quasi sistered outside the duct passage space. The nearby trusses will also provide a strong point for fastening the weight of this assembly hanging via the duct cover.

I wouldn't want to be the person who has to hang this. I think the soffit box will hide the inevitable "growth" of the hole in the ceiling.

I would use a down roof blower, such as Wolf, Abbaka, and Broan make, unless there is some reason for an up-blast commercial unit. With a roof blower, it will be possible to oversize the unit so that it can be effective at lower than full speeds. This reduces noise, given that there is no place for a silencer in the duct path.

Be sure that the hood itself overlaps the cooktop, and that it is high enough for good sight lines across the space. Those two requirements, combined with a 10-degree from vertical nominal plume expansion angle from the largest pans to be used, establishes the minimum hood entry area size.

A canopy hood as in your drawings, rather than the skinny poser hood styles shown in the comments by others above, should be used to provide room for baffle tilt and some 'reservoir' volume under the baffles. Example Pro Island Wolf hood below illustrates interior guts (not typically in Wolf publications) and short duct cover. This particular hood example is long enough for a 36-inch cooktop and induction wok, but shorter versions are available to fit a cooktop alone.

If a gas cooktop is to be used, some consideration for gas line installation and repair is needed. Otherwise, induction will be much safer in various ways, particularly if children will be present.

Last, I can't resist noting that the client(s) should recognize that architecture and embedded kitchen design is a systems engineering like recursive process, and nothing should be blocked from change until all aspects are defined and designed in. (See layout comments by others above.)
kaseki
last year
last modified: last year
P.S. The Wolf above is attached by bolting the duct cover to attic structure, then bolting the hood to the duct cover.
opaone
last year
To pile on... This is just really bad design. Move the range to a side wall where a proper exhuast hood can be installed.

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