Get what you want, not what contractor wants. Why is the counter cut wrong already?

We have corbels on the cupboards so there is support for expansion. It was already planned to extend very far, I guess the contractor cut it to their preference for some reaon unfortunately. I am wondering if 10 inch overhang would be enough for the 36 inch height

If you didn't sign off on it than it's his mistake and he's responsible for the extra cost to correct it. Chose another slab and have it recut to the dimensions you originally specified. My counters are 36" tall and have "counter" height barstools. My counter looks similar in size/design as the top picture in your last post. It works really well for us.

10" is a little skimpy for 36", most people recommend 15" for this or even 18" if it is the primary seating area. 10" would be a little more comfortable at bar height where your legs are a little more stretched on the stool.

I have done 10 or 11 to avoid the necessity for extra support in the middle of the overhang, following the material specs, and this has been comfortable for kids or as a shorter term perch like snacking rather than full meal for adults unless they were tall.

36" is the basic height for most islands with overhangs...has he not done kitchens in the last 15 years? 10" is small if you want to spend time sitting there doing homework, eating breakfast etc...my family lives around our island. Our top is supported with legs, a skirt and steel, and is 15-16" beyond the cabinets on 3 sides for seating . Corbels are not a real support if you choose to extend the overhang. Don't let his mistake take away your plan...I can't believe that it was already cut without going through the exact plan with you. Is there something that was left out of this story...is he a family member?

10" isn't even the minimum for 42" high counter! Do you have decorative doors/panels on the back of the island cabinets? If so, is that 10-inch overhang 10" beyond the doors/panels? If not, then you probably have more like a 9-inch overhang.

Here are the recommended minimums:

• Table-height (30" off the finished floor) = 18"
• Counter-height (36" off the finished floor) = 15"
• Bar-height (42" off the finished floor) = 12"

If anyone in your family is tall (> 6'), add 3" to the above.

I would not accept 10". If you did not agree to 10", then they should be re-doing your counters at their expense.

There is actually no minimum. You can sit at a stool with the 1-1/2" overhang if you feel like it. It would not be practical or comfortable but there's no law against it.

It's a recommendation.

And it depends on what you are going to use it for.

I don't even like to sit at a counter to eat or drink at a bar or diner, or a high top. I like to sit at a regular height table

So if you have a regular height table in the kitchen and this is going to be as a perch where you can kinda sit sideways, or for a snack or a drink, fine, it can be on the shallow side, especially if you don't have a lot of extra room.

If this is going to be the only place you eat, or you eat there frequently I would go with the recommendations that Buehl has mentioned.

However, you will also need support that is tied into the cabinetry to support the overhang, and decorative brackets that are screwed on to the surface of the cabinet are not adequate.

The metal angle irons that I have are required to be attached to the inside surface of a cabinet (which requires extra material) or the inside of a pony wall so the bracket rests on top of the ponywall and is not just attached to the face, or behind a thin layer of paneling.

Depending upon these factors, it may make sense for you to go with a technically too shallow overhang depending upon what you actual daily needs are.

Not a lot of older kitchens can spare a full 18" inches, or a total of 42" for a peninsula.

I do not anticipate we'll use the bar for long periods of time, just occasional seating and snacking. Thanks for all the answers. Will go with the single level. Just wished I would have been informed they made the cut

We have corbels on the cupboards so there is support for expansion. It was already planned to extend very far, I guess the contractor cut it to their preference for some reaon unfortunately. I am wondering if 10 inch overhang would be enough for the 36 inch height

Why are you letting him get away with his mistake cutting it too short? You need a 15" overhang for 36" height. And Verbo is correct. He never should have had it cut without you signing off on it. And now that it's cut, is why he's insisting you need to do bar height,

He needs to eat this on his dime. And while you might be ok with a 10" overhang, which btw is even too narrow for a 42" bar height (12" is standard), if you ever go to sell, it could be an issue.

I had a 10" overhang in an apartment we rented. I can tell you it wasn't even comfortable for sitting occasionally as one had to sit angled.

Oh and corbols are not strong enough support. As mentioned, you need steel supports.

The big question is why are you letting him get away with this?

Table height is 30" because adults can rest their feet on the floor when sitting on an 18" high chair seat. You can't be as comfortable without your feet on the floor when you're on a higher stool. For kids it doesn't matter. Their feet won't hit the ground at either height.

Whether or not you need additonal supports is dependent upon the thickness of the engineered stone, the depth of the cantilever, and the span. You can cantilever 3cm estone up to 15" without additional support according to most manufacturers, but if the span is more than 48" or so, it will sag. Design accordingly please.