As I said in my original post, our Mannington Adura is glue-down. The flooring company we used refuses to do a click-lock on LVP installs. Period. If a customer insists upon click-lock they will sell them the flooring materials but will not do the install. They said they have had too many complaints with click lock installs and it just was not worth the trouble for them. If you read install instructions for almost any flooring, having a level floor is critical. All of the mfgs specify their tolerances for uneven subflooring and they're mostly all very tight (narrow) ranges. I think a lot of DIYers forget or don't pay much attention to that. We had to, our flooring joists are wildly uneven and no free-floating floor would have worked.

Thank you to everyone who has responded so far. There is obviously a clear preference here to keep the hardwoods. Just to clarify a few things: - We can't ditch the dining room, though I understand the sentiment there. Formal or not, our house is small and we don't have an eat-in kitchen so the dining room is the only place we have to eat and, unlike many families, we use it every day. - I agree that the two existing wood floors in the do ing and living rooms could easily be refinished. My concern is the dust, the fumes, the pain of having to be out of the house for days while everything dries. If we did refinish, I would want to find a better, more matte coating than what is on there now. - The wood floors can remain untouched, even if I hate looking st them every day. there is no pressing need to replace or refinish them, other than wanting consistency if we do the other floors. However, not ripping out the carpet and worn kitchen flooring is not an option. Both are so old and dingy (they were here for years before I moved in) that no matter how much I clean, vacuum, or shampoo, it still feels dirty. I can't in good conscience allow a baby to crawl on that, which is the impetus for replacing the floors to begin with.

We would need to see the wood in question. Oak trim can run from dark to super orange. I will add that most 70's wood isn't high quality, so spending more money to design around it rather than just painting doesn't usually make sense.

I don't think the hardwood from today is nearly as good as the hardwood from even a few decades ago. I have small dogs - both less than 20 pounds. But they're young, like to play, and they've left some pretty amazing scratches and skitter marks in the hardwood - in 2 different homes. Yes I keep their nails trimmed, they get a quick dremel every week. The old floors were site finished oak hardwoods. And there were spots where the scratches were getting pretty bad. The one house in question is in a beach town, so between the dogs and the sand, the floors were very scratched up. I deliberately chose a wood look LVP and it's held up incredibly well, but no one will mistake it for site finished hardwood either. I have engineered wood in my primary home - and while they've scratched that up too, it's somewhat less noticeable because it's a matte finish, and it's pre-finished engineered, which I've heard may be somewhat harder.