theaceofspades, Thanks very much for replying. That sounds better than letting the entire branch just die...but is there no way I can root the entire branch (as one giant cutting)? I was thinking maybe it could be brought indoors, put in a bucket of water...with something in the water for nutrients and then try the rooting thing where you make a cut, put a little stick in it and put rooting powder in the cut, then damp moss/plastic around it (haven't done it but read about it) - which I know is meant to be done when the branch is still attached to the tree, THEN cut it off after it roots but maybe in this case if the branch is getting water with nutrients in it it would stay alive and root inside the moss/plastic...which would be a bit up the branch from the end that is in the water? :/ :`( *Sigh*

the problem will be.. that it will spend forever.. trying to heal an un-healable break ... or a large cut at that height ...... and it will most like rot .. long before it ever heals .... and one of the reactions.. will be for it to put out .. just throwing out number 5 to 10 new branches.. at the unhealed wound... and as they get 5.. 10 .. 15 feet tall.. and hanging on the end of the wound ... they will break repeatedly.. and fall down ... and it doesnt help.. it is a weak-wooded birch ... and that doesnt even address.. that the branch just below the break.. LOOKS like it overhangs your bump out .... if that is the south side.. and you have any room left before the property line.. i would plant a replacement for the future... i would get rid of the broken one to the ground... and plan on removing the rest.. within 5 to 10 years .... it would be a false economy.. to belabor the cost effectiveness of it ability to shade and cool the house.... if it ends up falling on the house .... not to mention.. that if an insurance agent ever visited.. they might not be happy about the whole situation ..... and .. again: removal the break this season.. consideration of the rest within 5 to 10 years ... an onsite inspection by an ASA certified tree surgeon is highly recommended.. and that isnt just any guy with a chainsaw... its an onsite inspection by an expert ... see link regarding a trees reaction to topping .. which is.. in effect.. what you are contemplating .... i know your reaction is emotional ... but isnt that why you came and asked... and i know you dont really want to hear/read what we are suggesting ... regardless.. i wish you luck ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: random link ... topic #4 -- review the section on topping.. which is basically the alternative to full removal of that section

Bill, the bottle method works really well. I used this with the large cuttings that I got this year. I had to put the large cuttings(or should I say branches), in a bucket to support them. I also wanted to say that the raw egg did not always produce roots faster but once they rooted, the roots grew really fast. I think because the clear plastic allowed light, and heated soil faster, it created a much more ambient enviroment for rooting. Today I rechecked soil temps. Soil thermometer read at 90 degrees! Without the 600 watt HPS light, soil temps would have been much cooler, probobly around 70. Soil temps were 86 in my 1 gal plastic milk jugs. Kaneohe Sunburst(I broke off the inflo today), 1 Samoan Fluff, Red noid cutting, and Kimi Moragne are the only cuttings I got this spring that have yet to root. Andrew

Have any pics? They would help. Josh