Agree with ken, exercise your warranty but if that doesn't work, DO NOTHING except water only if it needs it. And for heaven's sake, don't apply any more fertilizer. And for Pete's sake (getting several of the "sakes" in, here) take those funky strings off! It is a small enough tree that I doubt wind will hurt it. And use the rebar to drive away burglars! ;o) hortster

Bill, the bottle method works really well. I used this with the large cuttings that I got this year. I had to put the large cuttings(or should I say branches), in a bucket to support them. I also wanted to say that the raw egg did not always produce roots faster but once they rooted, the roots grew really fast. I think because the clear plastic allowed light, and heated soil faster, it created a much more ambient enviroment for rooting. Today I rechecked soil temps. Soil thermometer read at 90 degrees! Without the 600 watt HPS light, soil temps would have been much cooler, probobly around 70. Soil temps were 86 in my 1 gal plastic milk jugs. Kaneohe Sunburst(I broke off the inflo today), 1 Samoan Fluff, Red noid cutting, and Kimi Moragne are the only cuttings I got this spring that have yet to root. Andrew

Have any pics? They would help. Josh

I'd say to root any pieces as you would a cutting - allow to callous then using tdogdad's method of a perlite channel in potting soil or go to Plumeria101.com. Trim off any large leaves that are left. For the root ball, trim off anything that looks too damaged - on the top too, you would want to trim off anything that is ragged. When I receive a rooted cutting in the mail I always soak it overnight in a SuperThrive solution then pot in a perlite-heavy mix, water with the SuperThrive solution, place it on the brick patio etc. What happened to your tree?? Suzanne