Moving this post to myself down the line. But I can't help noting that various highly-trafficked so-called building/handyman forums persist in perpetuating practices long since discredited by building scientists. And none more common than the "poly on the wall, two-inches of space followed by batt-filled framing" basement finishing. Just because you post the same stuff 26,000 times doesn't make it right!

Good question and comments. This is often the leakiest transition in most homes, mainly at foundation to framing. The typical sill sealer used here is too thin. Best to use thicker sill sealers, gaskets or caulk the top and bottom of thin sill sealer during installation. Since most architects and builders miss this detail, it can help to caulk the sill to the foundation while there is still access from the inside. If you can't reach the sill plate, it can still help to caulk the drywall to slab, subfloor or finished floor. This can help mitigate moisture, bugs, dust and energy loss. If your wall cavities aren't spray foamed, dense packed, or SIPS, then they are probably acting as air pathways to some degree. Air can be pulled through them from the basement, attic or floor framing cavities and with it can come dust. Stopping this sort of unwanted air movement is better from a moisture management standpoint as humid air traveling through cold building cavities leads to hidden moisture problems. Acoustical caulk, urethane caulk or high quality one part spray foam are good materials for sealing. I wouldn't bother with Dap's and other water based spray foam, I've seen it turn to dust with light touch, just days after installing.

Last year we got 15 inches of rain in less than a week here in Maryland (I'm next to D.C.). You may have seen the mess on t.v. Anyway, my basement flooded in my cute 50's house. It wasn't as severe as it could have been, but the wall to wall carpet was wet, and things were a mess. Fortunately, there was no major damage like so many others experienced. I found out tons within a short period because I had to. First I ruled out a sump pump. This is not going to fix a problem like this. Water must be diverted to another location. Second. Gutters and down spouts (clean ones) are very important to divert the water away from the house. They also must be wide enough to handle water from the house properly (mine were to narrow). If when you look at them while it's raining and they are flooding, they are either to narrow, clogged or both. Third (probably doesn't pertain to you). If there are large plants that go deep into the ground, this causes a path for the water to leak into the house. True you have had tons of rain lately. But, your gutters can't be helping the situation. I think you need to start by diverting the water away from the house and correcting your gutters. Good luck!! SG

Put one solid drywall piece in. Use 1st tape coat. scrape down/lightly sand drywall before 2nd coat, using 8-10" wide knife for 2nd coat and feather out the edges. Use 12" and apply 3d coat also feathering the edges. Lightly sand the area, damp sanding is good to blend everything and make a smooth surface. Apply primer and see how it looks. Depending on the patched wall area location and light exposure, at times, a "skim coat" over the entire area will make a big difference and a seameless repair. Good luck