I'd keep sepia [?] going, and not add black, the darker option, cause to me it competes with it, and sorta squashes its softness. This might do that, and add headboard's warmth.... nice photo - you and yours? :) [https://www.houzz.com/products/lite-source-ls-22445l-amb-dillian-transitional-table-lamp-prvw-vr~13386237[(https://www.houzz.com/products/lite-source-ls-22445l-amb-dillian-transitional-table-lamp-prvw-vr~13386237)

I never like to use a water based primer on bare wood, as it tends to raise the grain. Further, most water based primers don't sand as well as an oil based product. On a new ceiling, if I had the possibility, I would prime all those boards with the BIN primer before they go up. It is always nice to prime the tongues because tongue and groove boards often shrink a little as it seasons, leaving a little bare wood showing. Spraying would be ideal. BIN flows out really well and often does not need any sanding at all. The thin, even coat of spraying also does not tighten the fit on the grooves, making insertion with the tongues difficult.

I agree with latfolia - that corner closet in the "master" is messing up the whole room. But 13' x 15' is a decent sized bedroom - ours is 12'x14', and we have plenty of room for a king bed. You might feel better about the closet if the doors weren't mirrored. I would start by opening up the closet, so you have full access, all the way to the right end. Efficient use of organizers, with single and double rods, could give you all the closet space you need for daily use clothes. Off-season and less-used clothes can go in one of the other closets.

Cork is an excellent carpet replacement product. It is warm and quiet underfoot. It comes in two formats: A floating click-together format for 'dry' areas and a glue down tile for wet areas such as bathrooms and mud rooms. Yep...you heard me. The glue down cork tile is 100% water proof. As in MORE water proof than vinyl click together products. How? The glue down cork tiles are butted together (no grout lines) when installed. They are then coated x2 with water based polyurethane. The poly seals the seams to create a continuous sheet of cork. The only areas of concern (as with ALL floors in a bathroom) would be at the walls where cork meets drywall. I'm a cork flooring expert. I've done this more times than I can count. A situation like yours were you do NOT want to refinish the entire house because two rooms had issues. Cork is an oak. It has many of the same colour tones as White and Red oak. In fact it starts out quite orange (sigh...ignore that phase of it's life...it doesn't last very long) but soon calms down to a lovely soft yellow which is IDENTICAL to the current laminates you have. Here's how I would do it: I would pick a floating floor that has an IDENTICAL glue down tile option. I would install the floating floor in the bedroom. This gives you the 'total' floor height that you need to match. Now you remove the bathroom flooring and lay in new plywood OR cement backer board (cork doesn't care) to raise the floor up. Now you glue down the cork tile (6mm or 8mm) so that it matches the existing floating floor. Finish the floor in two coats of polyurethane and Voila! A continuous floor with minimal effort. A glue down tile floor (if you hire this part out) is going to cost (labour plus materials) the same as a porcelain tile installation. That's roughly $12-$15/sf. Sounds horrible until you realize you have 30sf to cover...now that's not too bad! A floating cork floor will cost (roughly) the same as a HIGH END vinyl floor installation ($4-$5/sf for materials + $3/sf for labour). www.icorkfloor.com Cork Flooring Tiles Glue Down - Forna Silver Birch 6mm Flooring (icorkfloor.com) Floating Cork Floor - 12mm Forna Floating Cork Flooring (icorkfloor.com) Those are just and example of how to get a continuous floor in two different formats of cork.