It's dead. I can see a couple of clues as to why. The "I watered often" might have been a problem. Did you test the soil to see if it needed water? In general, even evergreens don't need to be watered often in winter, and wet, cold soil leads to root rot. The other problem is cold combined with it being a potted plant. Because a pot is more exposed than a plant in the ground, the soil in a pot freeze more solidly than nearby soil, and will do far more freeze-thaw and this can damage roots. It's generally suggested that potted plants be hardy to 2 zones colder than where they are in order to survive the winter, and the boxwood is already near the edge of its tolerance to be planted in the ground in your area. If you want boxwoods, they will do best in the ground in your area, or at the very least in a pot that gets moved to a sheltered spot such as against the foundation in a shady area where the pot is surrounded by bagged leaves or in an unheated garage that stays a bit warmer than outdoors.

IMO you currently have no way for a visitor to distinguish where the entry is. The large sea of paving created by the drive and turn around or parking spaces vs. the narrow entry tucked between the two building wings gives no clear message of where a visior should enter. The narrow path and archway to the courtyard says to me that it is private space, akin to walking into someone’s back yard uninvited. I would likely follow the drive around the house if I were looking for the front door, assuming that the house was spun 90 degrees with the entry facing right. Bryan Lovely’s second drawing solves this with problem with a clear pathway from the driveway to the entrance, an entry patio, and bright plantings that bring attention to the home entry. While his planting layout doesn’t do much for me, and I think the path should be wider, at least 6’ wide, this general scheme will improve the front entry and make the house far more welcoming than its current front facade. Tiny changes like window trim don’t solve the largest issue of how a first time visitor find the entrance to a home that presents a barricaded appearance.

The first thing I would do is get a counter depth fridge in that small space and since the space is tiny I think the same as the walls could be a good idea. I certainly would not have done black appliances and with the new cabinet color they will even be more of an issue so think a lot about this change.

When leaf margins curl downward, especially if leaves droop abnormally from the base of the leaf to the leaf tip, there is probably an issue affecting root function or root health. The main causal suspects would be over-watering or soil compaction causing an inadequate supply of oxygen to roots, a root infection, or a TDS (fertility) level too high, which can limit water uptake. After 6 months, the plant should be stable in the pot. I would remove the rocks as they reduce the exposed soil surface which reduces evaporative water loss - your friend when you're over-watering. If you're over-watering, there are 2 potential fixes. 1) Start checking the moisture level of the medium deep in the pot, at the bottom, with a wooden tell. More on that below. 2) If the plant is of manageable size, water over the sink, allow it to drain, then put Newton's First Law of Motion to work, draining excess water from the pot. See below. Do check for mites, as the plant looks mighty mitey. You might need a jeweler's loupe or a magnifying glass to see them. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Newton's First Law For conventional container culture, it's a given that saturated/partially saturated media rob roots of the oxygen they need to function normally and efficiently. At best, soil saturation robs your plants of immense measure of potential in areas like growth, appearance, yields, ….. At worst, plants unable to cope with the strain of drought stress caused by saturated media will succumb to it. This isn't a 'scare tactic, it's a very simple and straightforward observation that will be difficult to disagree with a straight face. Newton's First Law of Motion states that an object will remain either at rest, or in motion at a uniform rate and in a straight line unless acted upon by an external offsetting force. In this case, we will designate the 'object' as excess water in your potting medium. At risk of my being redundant, the 'law' can be seen as a simple statement about inertia, that objects will remain in motion and in a straight line unless a force acts to change the motion. To put the law to work for you/your plantings, you should water to beyond the point of total soil saturation - so the medium has been completely saturated and at least 15-20% of the water you have applied has exited the pot. Unless your soil is purposefully constructed to eliminate all/nearly all excess water, it's extremely probable, when the pot has stopped draining, there will be too much water in the potting medium for the plants' liking. To eliminate this excess water: immediately after a thorough watering, hold the pot in one hand over the sink, lawn, or over-sleeping significant other and move it downward, then sharply reverse the direction to upward. You'll immediately note that a good measure of 'excess' water will “continue downward in a straight line” and exit the drain hole. The sharper the reversal of direction, the more water exits the drain hole. When you have repeated the exercise until water no longer exits the drain hole on the reversal of direction, you will have eliminated all excess water and your plants will regard you with a newfound sense of awe. Al