Saood Since I didn't plan on having tomato plants in pots, I wasn't ready & used whatever I had on hand. Many of them were 1 gallon pots, few 3 gallons. That is pretty small. But in spite of small pots, they grew well & whatever plants I had, they produced some tomatoes. Plenty to sample them all, and even save seeds for next spring. I only managed to plant in ground about 15. Photos in my previous postings are showing seedlings started without any additional lighting, just in front of south window. So yes, they are leggier than should be. Once they have at least 1 set of 'true' leaves, I pot them up into bigger pots. Seedlings grown in peat pellets I usually pot up into 3 or 4" pots. I burry them as deep as possible, which is most of the main stem. This is when I start adding fertilizer whenever watering. (BTW, if you are looking only at asparagus seedlings, I think they are just about right - maybe just a bit etoliated, since asparagus has very long/tall ferny stalks.) I try to put them outside ASAP to get as much sunlight as possible (make sure you aclimitize them well, even if grown under lights). Sometimes I pot them up second time into larger pots. I try to get deep pots, since tomatoes have large root system. (the attached photo is showing tomatoes potted-up second time, from 4" pot into 6-7" pot that are much deeper). Large distance from light source would slow the growth, I believe they need any light you could possibly supply, short of burning them (as you asked about in another thread - I think it was about CFL's). If you growing only few plants, maybe you could try to nurse the sluggish ones to health. Besides what I mentioned, I can't think of any other reason for them being so slow. I don't have experience growing jalapenos. I would make sure of good air circulation; proper watering; as much light as possible. Don't start fertilizing too early - not so healthy plant can't use fertilizer. To get some really good tips on growing in containers, there are many very experienced members on container forum growing peppers, tomatoes etc. Being fall here, you may not get as fast reply as it would be in season. Rina This post was edited by rina_ on Mon, Oct 28, 13 at 11:28

Common milkweed might get two feet tall the first year, but it will take all summer to accomplish this. The root system will be growing below ground, and it is the root system that gives the plant a head start the next growing season. It makes sense to remove monarch eggs and caterpillars from milkweed seedlings, but the monarchs don't agree. The female monarchs are very capable of finding younger milkweed plants, even when they are hidden in the grass. They seem to prefer them.

Peppers do generally take longer to germinate than the other two. And if you are in cooler temps than what ottawa mentions above, it can take a really long time (if the seed doesn't rot first). :-) About 3 weeks is when I usually start more, because, in my experience / environment, at that point if it hasn't germinated yet, it probably isn't going to (some do surprise you, though).

Parts are by volume. 4-1-1 is not a high nitrogen fertilizer. It is almost the ideal ratio of nutrients (3-1-2). plus the applications rates on the label instructions are quite low. Plus fish emulsion, fish oil, and fish/kelp blends come in various formulations - all depends on the brand - but all are low. This compared to MG at 24-8-16 for example which is a high N fertilizer. There are few, if any, high N compounded ferts. They most all fall into the 2-1-1, 4-2-3, 3-3-3 range. If you want high N organic then you use a nitrogen-specific organic. Same for high P or K needs. Use a product specific. Dave