How to Grow Crocosmia and Freesia corms without rotting
getgoing100_7b_nj
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getgoing100_7b_nj
last yearfloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
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Freesia's not flowering?Please help!
Comments (20)Flower development is regulated primarily by temperature and light intensity. Set the bulbs two to three inches apart in the pot. For 8" pots, plant about nine bulbs. For 10" pots, plant 12-14 bulbs. Set the bulbs on top of the soil in the pot and then cover with peat moss or a sandy mixture so the top of the bulb is one and a half to two inches deep. This means the soil level is well down from the edge of the pot. Make sure your soil is the well-draining type. Freesias cannot be waterlogged. Keep the bulbs slightly damp at 40F. No higher. Full sunlight. Increase the watering as the bulbs grow and when they get seven full leaves, increase the temperature to about 50- 54F. Start feeding with half strength balanced ratio fertilizer as the flower buds start to form. Do not allow the temperature to get over 60F or youÂll get spindly weak growth that will flop over. The ideal temperatures are between 51 and 54 F. I know that is somewhat finicky, but that is how you get the blooms! As thee temperature gets up toward 60F, and never should it be over that high; the growth will get faster and more spindly. I had some in a pot near a sunny window this winter. I suppose that the exposure was good enough without being too hot, and that the nearness of the glass to the flowers kept the blooms cooler even though some heat was on during cold days. The blooms were quite successful, but my disappointment was that the ones I thought I picked out were not the ones that actually bloomed! Someone must have got the corms mixed up in the bins; I wanted pink opal ones, but I got bronzy red!...See MoreCrocosmia
Comments (23)Donna, I don't know if you are still considering Crocosmia since this thread was started in July, but hopefully my experience is helpful since we are in similar SE hot and humid climates. I've grown C. 'Jenny Bloom' quite easily in part shade to part sun in well-drained soil. This cultivar is the best I've tried because it's not as tall as some other cultivars so it flops less and as PDN states, it doesn't crowd as quickly as say C. 'Lucifer'. I just divided my original clump after 6-7 years. I've had a hard time establishing some such as C. 'Star of the East' and C. 'Warlhead', but I think I succeeded finally with the latter. I'll know for sure if it appears next Spring. My advise: Try planting as early as you can in Spring. Give them well-drained soil, a little bit of shade, and make sure that you water regularly the first summer. They do not like the heat until they are established and this takes some time, the better part of the summer in my experience. Once they establish though, they are a breeze and steadily increase in numbers....See MoreCrocosmia for zone 5 and below
Comments (13)I bought 'Lucifer' this spring and planted it in an area to cover up an early blooming plant. I have to move it over a little in the fall, to better cover the other plant. I hope Lucifer overwinters as well as my others. I did not put this one in a protected site. I don't know if it is so much winter moisture that harms Crocosmia (though I imagine they might dislike it if the soil was very soggy) but planting depth. They say to plant the corms of Crocosmia five inches down. I always make sure to do that even if it is a plant and not loose corms. Sometimes one has to bury the stems part way. Someone once told me that the corms can sometimes 'sneak up' (heave) after the colony gets big. Perhaps that exposure can cause long established plants to suddenly die out? I have not had this trouble since I put a large shovel-full of compost on top of mine after the foliage dies down in the fall. A local plant sale has two interesting cultivars for sale this fall. I am still trying to decide which one I want. Maybe both. ;-) CMK...See MoreZantedeschia tubers/corms
Comments (6)I'm not too sure if they don't require quite warm soil, to really take off once again, and I've always waited til my indoor temperatures are warmer, or it's warm enough to move the containers outdoors, and they will get leggy and lanky unless you have lots of bright light during those short winter daylight periods, especially if you're getting lots of cloudy days. I've never had problems getting mine to grow once again, though in general I think they prefer not ever going dormant except during warm dry periods perhaps. I've notice mine could have the tops frozen to the ground and on bringing them indoors for storage, they promptly started growing again , without even repotting them , which suggests to me, they don't have a natural dormancy period. There are other species that do die back naturally every fall for me outdoors once the cool weather arrives however, and those would be the pinks and other "colored" types, though those have more bulb like bulbs, and not the elongated rhizomes like the white ones? Not sure which kind you have?...See Moregetgoing100_7b_nj
last yearfloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
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