Amy Kadri 3:21 PM The cabinets were not custom however, this was completely redone. The Windows were put in brand new so could have been centered. According to the drawings the Windows were centered. They already made a mistake with measuring and had to put in a smaller cabinet at the last minute. Also, yes, I was talking about the gap on the side of the fridge. It gets larger at the top. It just feels like a "Bodge job". Seeing as everything was ripped and started from new, I thought it should be perfect.

Yes and No. No about the hack job on the siding around the PVC pipes. That's just awful. Looks like a pre-schooler's first attempt at using scissors. I would insist on a re-do. The soffit panel gap is less bad...easy enough to redo that. (As is, perfect hidey hole entry for wasps, etc. Needs to be remedied.) Yes about the dirt and smudges. Installers were working in a dirty environment to start with. Along the roof edges, old dirty siding, etc. That, and you might be surprised by how dirty new materials can be out of the box. Almost impossible to avoid. Add in the fact that it is December, I sure would not be dragging my pressure washer out of storage and risking hypothermia to wash down a house. Nor would I expect anyone else to do it. That job can wait until summer. (Although I can certainly understand 'wanting' a new siding job to be pristine.)

At this point, the job ($4/sf for a BIG job with LOTS of things to do = awesome price) is finished. The cure is going to be worse than the disease. I'm a big fan of "Wait until you have a problem before throwing money/time at it." It is the cheapest solution I know of (I'm a pragmatist...who is both cheap AND lazy ;-P). My advice is this: leave it alone. Keep 10% 'extra' of the flooring product (roughly 75sf or to the nearest box). This will offer you the peace of mind and the material security you will need to feel secure. You will keep it in the back of your mind. You will know that IF something goes wrong you have ALL THE PRODUCT needed to repair/replace the damaged planks. With a laminate floor I wouldn't worry to much about a bit of bounce. People have 'put up with' bouncing laminate floors for 20 years (the SAME laminate they installed 20 years prior). That tells me the click system is fine. Your floor is a rigid vinyl (8mm thick = nice product). The rigidity of the core will help keep everything stable. The only weak point (as in everything in life) is the link (click edge) between one plank and another. This is the one and only place things *might go wrong. Now to be blunt, a rigid vinyl floor like yours can be taken apart and, "in theory", be clicked back together - BUT I don't like that idea. I really don't. We know the click-edge is delicate. We know that. We've seen them brake by grazing the ground before being installed. A vinyl floor that has been disassembled has a STRONG likelihood of DAMAGED edges. If the edge is damaged then there is almost no way you will get them back together. That means you will have to assume 25% damage should you choose to 'unzip' this floor to the point where it bounces. That leaves you with 75% intact flooring with 25% garbage planks (which must be replaced). As soon as you try to fix the subfloor underneath (by removing the flooring) you will have lost the 'intact' floor. You are guaranteed to spend MORE time, MORE money and MORE materials to deal with this. Compare that to 'leave it alone'. Right now you have 100% intact flooring. Every day you wake up to 100% intact floor is another day with a perfectly functional floor. Every day you have 100% intact floor is another day you have SAVED time, money and materials. Simply leave this floor alone until something MAKES you repair it. Keep your 5%-10% extra on hand for future repairs (and there will be future repairs). Use them if and when you need them.

These guys are going for speed. This may fly in new construction, but not remodels.