Hi Mrs. Lack, Eastern Flooring Products are sold through qualified dealers who make certain you, the consumer, get the right floor that performs for years. How did everything turn out?

Our new house was built in 12/2021. I told the design center I needed a waterproof/pet proof/ kid proof/scratch proof floor and that I can mop clean daily. I chose Cortona mission collection wild mustang. It was beautiful. Looked amazing. Unfortunately it has not been holding up. I could see the edges starting to curl, I had to be super careful with moving furniture, and there was some weird sticky substance that kept buklding up everywhere. In 10/2022 I told the builder and they came to inspect with the installer. Then installer sent an inspector and moisture level tested. The installer also said I coukd only use Bona and the light coming from my windows could be warping it. I said all this is BS. Ive had LVP by Cortec installed and its the best floor ever and had for 3 years with no problems. Builder replaced it with same flooring. 3 months later im noticing edging curling again. Now im being told you have to dry mop it, all furniture needs to have padding or else it voids the manufacture warranty. Bottom line folks. Ill be replacing it with cortec a brand I trust. I didnt sign ul to treat my glooring as if its an infant. It flooring!!! Plus I made my needs and wants very clear.

Not sure if you’ve already installed your floors but thought I’d give you my two cents worth. Hope you’re still considering your flooring choices. First, we just had about 1200 square feet of Happy Feet lvp installed in our home. Like the end of August. The only thing I like about it is the color! We have the stone elegance line in the Kona color. Our previous floors were tile and engineered hardwood. This new floor is very textured and that is something I’m trying to adjust to. It also feels like plastic and has a hollow sound if you tap your nails on it or have any sort of a heeled shoe on. The installation was okay but half the floor has been taken up and relayed twice. The installation was horrible. So that and the fact that I’m walking on plastic everyday has me hating this floor! For the price I wish we had shelled out an additional 3-4K and had engineered put back down. We had a major drainage issue and we had to jack hammer through the slab to replace corroded cast iron pipes. So, a tench through my house, with floors ripped out, cabinets ripped out and insurance was a joke. The LVP is on top of two rooms of remaining engineered flooring. The lvp in the other three rooms and foyer was laid in top of plywood that was nailed to the concrete slab. It sounds like I’m walking on plywood. The install directions clearly state floor must be leveled, the installers didn’t and I brought it up several times and was “assured” it would be fine. The installation instruction also mention flooring grade plywood. 3/8” flimsy plywood is not flooring grade. The plywood actually caused the floor to balloon up because it had been laid against the walls as well as the lvp. No 1/4” gap around the perimeter of the rooms. So the third time they came out, floors taken up and plywood pulled, new plywood installed with a smear on adhesive vs the liquid mails they originally used and then nailed back down. The floor still has areas that give way to much, creating a popping sound when you walk on them. One spot in my kitchen sounds like the squeaker from a dog toy is underneath the floor. The 2 yr old grandson loves to step there. Maybe if this floor had been laid properly I could get used to the plastic feel. It does clean easily. Old wood floors couldn’t be matched, so that’s why this was laid on top. Was cheaper than removing 🙄. The plywood was laid to make the floor level with old hardwood. I’d rather have plain concrete right now than this crap!

OK...what you want to know is the MOISTURE content of the concrete slab. Your house 'sounds' young but in the building industry it is possible they used the old fashioned 'concrete on raw earth' type of pour. That is to say it may not have a vapour barrier underneath. By the mid-80's the use of the vapour barrier under the slab was common but not 100%. It is possible your home doesn't have it. That means you need to do some moisture testing. The Calcium Chloride test is OK (ish) but doesn't tell the whole story. An indwelling probe is going to be the best identifier of in-slab moisture content. The moisture content is SUPER important. It tells you which adhesive to use with your vinyl. Not all 100% moisture-resistant adhesives are actually 100% moisture resistant. They have limits. And believe it or not, the limits are not as high as you think. If the worst case scenario is in play, you could be looking at adhesive that costs $3/sf. The trowel application must be perfect and the plank/subfloor coverage must be 100%. There is no short cut when it comes to the moisture barrier adhesives. And if you have a damp or wet slab, be aware that 'capping it' with lot of rigid, non-breathable material like vinyl or stone or tile or hardwood, etc, you *might find yourself dealing with EXTREME moisture levels because the build up of water becomes so high, you find yourself walking on soggy flooring. It has happened in the past...it will continue to happen as long as we have concrete slabs without moisture barriers underneath. The wear layer on this product, 20mil, is good. It will look 'good' for about 10 years and then start to show that it has been lived on. Of course beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Just because a floor looks a little worn does not mean it isn't durable. In the building industry 'durable' means fully functional regardless of what it looks like. To homeowners 'durable' means 'looks perfect'. You can see where there can be some upset over the use of the word durable. Who is doing the subfloor preparating? Who is doing the moisture readings? How much of the home's footprint will receive the vinyl? What is the recommended adhesive for the product?