If you are watering 3x per day for about 5 minutes each time, then you are watering properly. Recently someone wrote in who was told to water 3x per day 45 minutes each time. I wrote back to say it was probably 3x per day 4 to 5 minutes each time. Big difference. Do you know how long the sod sat on the pallet before putting it on the ground? And I'm confused about the topsoil, too. Why did you need topsoil at all?

I don't think Ethan read your message before posting. Although you did apply compost, it was not required and certainly not required to incorporate it into the soil. Don't fret about that. It would seem like you are watering far too long though. Was the sod rolled after laying it down? That might be one mistake. Rolling is needed to ensure the bottom of the sod meets the top of the underlying soil. Do you know how much water your sprinkler puts out in an hour? All you need is enough to moisten the sod and the very top of the underlying soil. You might need that amount 3x per day for the first 2 weeks until the sod knits into the soil. Normally we talk about watering 5-15 minutes, 3x per day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner). Your soil should never be soggy while starting a new lawn. If yours has been then you might already have a fungal disease which is cutting off moisture to the grass plants. Where do you live? What kind of grass did you buy?

Alfalfa: Weak feed at around 2-1-2. 100% slow release. Contains some root growth hormones, but you really shouldn't overdo those (it seems to have far less negative impact on Bermuda). To apply 1 pound of nitrogen equivalent requires 50 pounds per thousand square feet. Milorganite: Moderate feed at 5-2-0. Contains up to 40% fast release nitrogen, at minimum 60% slow release. Also contains 4% iron for greening the lawn. To apply 1 pound of nitrogen equivalent requires 20 pounds per thousand square feet. I know you didn't ask, but: Soybean meal/Cottonseed meal: Stronger feed at 7-1-2 or so. 100% slow release. No other effects. Tends to be the cheapest choice in terms of cost per pound of protein/nitrogen. To apply 1 pound of nitrogen equivalent requires 15 pounds per thousand square feet. Corn meal/Cracked corn: Very weak feed at 1.7-0.7-0.5. Provides weak to moderate fungal protection. Excellent soil conditioner due to the ability to pour it on without it smelling much as it decays. Not generally used as a primary feeding. To apply 1 pound of nitrogen equivalent requires 60 pounds per thousand square feet.

Since you just signed on with Brock, I would give them 2 months to make it look spectacular. If they cannot do it in 2 months, they are not going to do it in 6 months or a year. Your watering approach is perfect as far as you said. The idea is to not water unless the grass needs it. Then water heavily. In FL there are going to be entire years when you don't have to water. Heck, I've had entire years when I only watered a handful of times (2014, 2017, and 2018, for examples). Centipede should grow with 99% neglect. It is jokingly said that you can drag an empty bag of fertilizer over it once every 2 years and you're fine. Hiring someone to fertilize it regularly is, er, a waste of money. The Milorganite should last all season. As for the hard soil, please try this. Use a hose end sprayer, and put 24 ounces of any clear shampoo (based on 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet - 3x8=24). Fill the rest of the spray bottle with water and stir that around trying to not make bubbles. Then spray that as evenly as you can at any dial setting until you run out. Don't worry about getting too much in places. People have tried to overdose with shampoo and they cannot. After the shampoo follow that up with 1/2 to 1 inch of rain...or irrigation. I use generic baby shampoo from Walmart, but some others prefer the fragrance of the apple shampoo at Dollar Tree. This works. In fact golf courses use surfactants similar to shampoo to do the very same thing. Here is my theory about why shampoo works. Shampoo is a surfactant which allows water to penetrate into places it normally would not go. Water will penetrate into the soil and will go down deeper into the soil than it is currently going. The temperature of the deeper soil is lower than surface soil, so the water will help cool things off. The cooler and moister environment is perfect for the soils beneficial fungi to repopulate the soil. These fungi are similar to the bread mold fungi which send out runners called hyphae everywhere. Once the hyphae are established in the soil, they absorb moisture and swell to push the soil particles apart. When the hyphae dry out, they shrink allowing gaps in the soil where air and future moisture can penetrate. This process takes about 3 weeks. After the 3 weeks is up, when it rains you should be able to walk on the grass and notice the soil is so soft it is almost unstable to walk on. Then a few days after the rain, the soil will firm up again. Picture a wet sponge drying out. The soil acts exactly like that. The surface should be soft when moist and firm/hard when dry. But be careful about mistaking a hard surface for dry soil. It is still moist underneath, especially in the FL humidity. If the grass is not wilting, it does not need more water. The roots are getting water from those new, deep zones you opened up with the shampoo. The shampoo approach works a million times better than core aerating, and it only costs you a dollar for the shampoo. ...versus $75 - $250 for the contractor to aerate. If you like the new softness of the soil and want more, use the shampoo again. I shampooed my lawn in San Antonio once in 2012 and it remained soft to walk on until we moved in 2015.