Do you live in a freeze/thaw climate? If yes, I do not recommend simply laying paver gravel on the sod and then setting the pavers. It will be uneven within a season. I believe it is recommended to remove the sod and topsoil when laying pavers. I believe you are asking about metal or vinyl retention for pavers. These are fine for a walkway set near flush with the ground. I don't believe there is anything similar for a raised patio. Pavers need 4-8" inches of compacted gravel and sand in order to drain, thus preventing frost heave. I've seen earth berms against the pavers to hold them in place. That is an option to consider. Below is a photo of our patio edge retaining wall. There is an 8" concrete block set below the grade and atop it are 2, 4" thick wall blocks to create an enclosure for the pavers. To adjust for the builders grade, there is more than 12" of gravel/sand adjacent to the retaining wall and at least 6" near the house. We live in Northern IL. Hope this helps.

Start out with Trustile. They can send you a sample of the door profile that you create (It is a wedge of the door like this piece of door pictured on the site). I can't see these door profiles until I see a sample. You can also create visual profiles on their website.

The cabinets are semi custom and designed fine. I have to add a buildup as the style I chose has drawer and door facing that goes all the way to the top of the base to cover the rail. I like the look. I am installing a 3cm marble with a laminated edge on the island so I'm not worried about distance from upper cabinetry. However, the island is large and houses drawers down one side and doors around the other, plus a set of under counter refrigerator drawers... so the double edge will definitel obstruct the opening. My stone fabricator has informed me that they don't do the buildup and that it needs to be in place with the proper opening for the cutouts. They suggested building a frame with cross bars. I didn't think about the knotting of the wood so to me plywood makes more sense, but I've not had to consider this before.

Isn't this a bit too excessive for a tree that needs well drained soil ? https://www.grimmsgardens.com/plant-of-the-week-redbud-the-rising-sun/ How to Water Your Redbud After Planting Newly planted trees need to be watered daily for a few weeks after planting. After you have your tree in the hole, use a garden hose to water it in. Stick the hose into the bottom of the hole from the side, and turn on the water. This will help the soil to settle around the root ball and prevent air pockets. Once the water starts bubbling up out of the hole, move the hose to the other side of the hole and repeat the above step. Turn off the hose and spread soil into the hole where it has settled, until it is at the original soil level. Water your tree once daily with a hose on a trickle for 10 minutes. Do this everyday for 2 weeks when the temperatures are 65 degrees or hotter. After 2 weeks, cut watering back to every 3 days; do this for 2 more weeks. After 2 weeks of watering every 3rd day, cut back to 1 time per week for the rest of the year (through January if the temperatures are above 40 degrees and there is no snow or rainfall). If you get significant rainfall (1″ per day or week) at anytime during the year, do not water during those weeks.