I have them growing in both and it makes no difference for THIS hoya. With others it may make a difference. When I bought this plant it was less than half the size and was in a 14" basket so I have actualy potted it down some. I live in Oregon where it is cool and overcast a lot of the year. Carnosa plants are just growers and the beer fert. is amazing. I also use the MSU fert. and am conducting my own experiments on which works (for me) better/longer etc. One thing I have learned from spending years on these websites is that NOTHING works for everyone. What works for me may or may not work for anyone else. I have to repot all the hoya I get from AH in Hawaii or they die within a few months. Most people love her soil but it does not work for me or another gal who lives close to me. Our enviroment is just too different from Hawaii. BTW, I potted up the cuttings you sent me and they are all doing well :) I prefer to be anonymous on this site. I don't contribute often and only about what I feel confident in saying, so please don't use my name. THanks, HN

Camphappy--oh yes, Pinterest. Love it too! I need to explore the eatyourbooks site. We live in an amazing age! A2gemini--I'm sure there are lots of different under cabinet mounts. That link just happened to be something I had been reading about that sounded interesting. I would sure like to know what you end up with. A Bob Appetite app??? Oh my, there are more apps than time available to check the out! ;). Oh dear, a silly typo--I meant Bon Appetite. I haven't figured out if it is possible to back up on this iPad keyboard w/out erasing to make corrections. 1jcrochet--nutritional info is very helpful! I would like that too.

Yes, just ignore those air roots. Make your clipping, let it sit so the end dries up a few hours and then insert it into your new potting mix in a small pot with a hole. You do not need any honey or rooting hormone. Just make the cutting stand up as best you can. You can put more than one in a pot. There are different opinions about when to water. I wait a week or more if the potting mix had any moisture. Water sparingly, but let it run out the bottom. No sips. I would keep the newly planted cuttings wherever their "mother" plant has been. That's the light, air circulation, temperature they are used to. You should definitely repot in the suggested mix. Change it's soil, as you said above. Clean off as much of the old potting mix as possible, and toss it out. Don't use for the cuttings. I hope you can find the 3 components of the mix. At the very least, use the cactus & succulent mix and orchid bark, but if you can find pumice or perlite it will help. I've started some very large cuttings but sometimes just do 2-4 segments as shown in the photo. I could be wrong in the way I start cuttings, even tho' it works. I cut mine as shown on the left below, but in the case of your plant, you might want to gently twist the segment off as shown on the right. That way you'll cause less injury to the segment which stays on the plant. I'm not an expert. Others may chime in to correct me, but the above is what I do.

In fact, Jackson & Perkins survives in name only; it was bought by a conglomerate called Western Capital Resources (they also own Park Seeds and Wayside) after the 2007 financial crisis and subsequent bankruptcy of J&P. (which sadly took down Weeks Roses and others) However, the fact that 'Climbing Iceberg' isn't really suitable/ideal for all USDA 6 and colder climates isn't J&P's fault - they just produce varieties that sell well. It's always up to the customer to determine how well-suited a particular rose it to their climate and specific situation. Noted in previous posts is the fact that when a nursery lists a rose as "hardy to Zone 5", they are only stating that the rose will survive those conditions, but they are not claiming that the variety is guaranteed to be cane hardy to the very tips in cold climates. That said, and as others have noted, placing a rose close to a building may only exacerbate freeze/thaw cycling problems which are known to result in cane damage.