Sounds like they might be imported cabbage worms. (Imported from England, thank you very much.) Other control methods I've heard about in addition to the more effective ones stated above: Spread corn meal around the plants (the caterpillars are supposed to eat it, swell their stomachs, and die) Catch the moths with a butterfly net Get kittens who love to catch the moths and eat them :) Before eating the leaves, soak in salt water (so the caterpillars will die and fall off and you won't have to eat them.) DEFINITELY more of a problem with weak plants. I had kale growing two different places, one with much better soil. The caterpillars barely noticed the healthier plants, and they had apparently gotten under my row covers over the less healthy plants, and the result was an absolutely comical stripping job (I could laugh because I had the healthy kale in the other bed :) ) I've had kale plants produce for years without bolting or flowering, so you may well find a nice spring crop of collards growing from the old stems. Also, when it gets cold is when those nasty things finally die, and you get pest free leaves again! Next year try waiting before you cut the plants and see if the leaves clear up.

In part it is normal for the older bottom leaves to die and fall off. But is usually with much older plants than these appear to be. Over-watering/overly wet soil is the most common cause of yellowing such as in your picture. Excess N may cause a similar condition when very high N fertilizers are used but your fertilizer is not high N. Plus with excess N the younger leaves would be very dark green - yours are not - and here would be green veins in the yellow leaves - yours are not. Too little N would show up most in the new leaves as yellowing. So consider it a possible over-water issue. Excess rain? How often are you watering? Dave

Let us know if any change. if you think it could be a deficiency the best way is a soil sample to your local extension, and tell them you want to grow raspberries. they will tell you what you need. If you want to just cover all bases. use Holly Tone or any complete balanced organic fertilizer. Dr Earth is also excellent. Many exist. You could add azomite, rock phosphate, also use kelp. This will supply all trace minerals and such. Iron is good too, like Iron-Tone. In the photo I see a small leaf with tip burn. That is usually too much nitrogen. Possible you have a leaf spot of some kind. If not many leaves are like this remove them. You can use copper, sulfur, lime sulfur as a preventative. All organic fungicides. I don't have any fungal problems here, but do use a preventative, as I need it for fruit trees, I hit the brambles while I'm spraying the trees.Usually early in the season before any flowers or berries. I use nothing once flowers form.

Thanks, is that about a two gallon can? The majority of the foliage which has yellowed seems older leaves, mostly lower on the plant and toward the interior of the bush. That is normal. Foliage requires good light exposure to produce more food than they require. Older foliage is continually shed after the plant reabsorbs the nutrients from it (turning it yellow) to push new growth. Your flowers have only recently shattered. It's too soon to expect that pot bound plant to push any new growth or flowers. The spotted foliage I can tell from the photo is that which has turned yellow. "Yellow" means the plant has sucked the sap from them. That reduces their immune system ability to resist diseases. If that bugs you, pick off all the yellowed foliage. Pinch off the spent flowers, leaving all the green leaves in place. Don't cut down the canes to remove those spent flowers. Leave all the wood and green foliage the plant already has. Plant it. There is nothing I see in that photo to indicate there is anything wrong with the plant other than: Stressed from being in the can too long. Stressed from having temperature, light, watering, etc., change from where it WAS to where it IS. Probably stressed from having the fertilizers the growers push into the plants to get them retail ready (so you'll buy them), mostly washed from the soil due to the frequent watering required to keep that size plant salable in that size pot. Ready to push out new growth once it gets some root room, more nutrients and probably more consistent soil temperature and moisture instead of more widely fluctuating moisture and temps being stuffed into that can subject it to. The foliage just under the flowers (the newest, youngest foliage and growth) appears just fine. It's the oldest and that which is shaded from the best sun exposure which appear to be yellowing. Expect that as that is what happens with ALL plants as they grow. Just provide for this one as you have the others you've grown for years, remembering this one is more "juvenile", more of a "baby" than the adults already in your garden. So, it's going to require a bit more attention and patience as the others did at that "age". Have fun! Kim