Appreciate everyone's input and suggestions. Very kind of you all to offer guidance. Really liked the idea of using existing structures with a playset- amazing picture DD! Also appreciate the lighting suggestion. Never even considered adding lighting. Assuming I could dig down 9-12" and regrade the area by reducing the high side by 12" and building up the low areas. This is something I am now considering. Just need to figure out how to frame out the area for the mulch. I have a tree expert coming tomorrow to assess the area and get a quote on plantings and grading. Our township denied my application for a fence permit since one side of the proposed fence falls within an easement area. They did approve planting of trees to stabilize the bank but now denied the fence. So I will just add some type of plantings and regrade without adding a fence. Will look to add a fence later when I have the energy to argue with the township. I am starting to think Michelle's suggestion for purchasing a playset that can accommodate a slope would be the easiest solution. Only playset company I found that could be altered for slopes was Rainbow sets-I still have to level out area for the clubhouse but that is only a 5x5 patch. We still want to fix the sloped side of the yard to make a more useful play area. Will let everyone know what the landscape contractor / tree expert proposes.

Just an update - the tree is officially dead. Every leaf is brown to orange. The arborist told me it wasn't necessarily my fault the tree died, because it would take more than a dog pen over its roots to kill it. He suspects that it was stressed previously by construction that took place around its base prior to me buying the property. I think he was trying to make me feel better about the situation. I've gotten a good quote for removal, $1700 to take down and leave wood on premises, $2000 to take down and remove + $125 to grind out the stump. He is willing to take $900 to get rid of the tree, letting me make a payments on the balance up to 6 months. I haven't had tree work of this size done before, but I think this is a decent price. I'm looking for a replacement tree that I can put in the bare spot. Something that will be big enough to provide shade in about 5 years. I appreciate any suggestions.

Looks like scale. Here are 3 types of scale that oak get from a Penn state book: Woody ornamental Pest management insects and mites, 49 Golden oak scale: Horticultural spray oil can be applied as a dor- mant treatment. crawlers may be managed with formulations of acephate, azadirachtin (ornazin 3% ec only), bifenthrin and imidacloprid, buprofezin, carbaryl, chlorpyrifos (Dursban 50W only), cyfluthrin, cyfluthrin and imidacloprid, dimetho- ate, dinotefuran, flonicamid, horticultural oil, hydrophobic extract of neem oil, imidacloprid, insecticidal soap, lambda- cyhalothrin (Demand cs, scimitar cs, and scimitar gc only), methidathion, and thiamethoxam. Marathon 1% g and Marathon 60 WP are labeled for use only on plants grown in containers, flats, benches, or beds. management hints: select and apply horticultural spray oil according to label directions. this scale insect makes small pits in the bark on twigs. crawlers are active in mid-May. repeat applications may be needed. (p. 352) Oak kermes scale: Horticultural spray oil can be applied as a dormant treatment. crawlers may be managed with for- mulations of acephate, azadirachtin (ornazin 3% ec only), bifenthrin and imidacloprid, buprofezin, carbaryl, chlorpy- rifos, cyfluthrin, cyfluthrin and imidacloprid, dinotefuran, flonicamid, horticultural oil, hydrophobic extract of neem oil, imidacloprid, insecticidal soap, lambda-cyhalothrin (Demand cs, scimitar cs, and scimitar gc only), malathion, methi- dathion, and thiamethoxam. Marathon 1% g and Marathon 60 WP are labeled for use only on plants grown in containers, flats, benches, or beds. management hints: select and apply horticultural spray oil according to label directions. crawlers should be managed in mid-May. repeat applications as needed. (pp. 364, 366) Obscure scale: crawlers may be managed with formulations of acephate, azadirachtin (ornazin 3% ec only), bifenthrin and imidacloprid, buprofezin, carbaryl, chlorpyrifos (Dursban 50W only), cyfluthrin, cyfluthrin and imidacloprid, dinotefuran, flonicamid, horticultural oil, hydrophobic extract of neem oil, insecticidal soap, lambda-cyhalothrin (Demand cs, scimitar cs, and scimitar gc only), and methidathion. management hints: select and apply horticultural spray oil according to label directions. egg laying and crawler activity occur over an extended period. sprays may be applied when crawlers are first active, from mid- to late July through early august. crawler sprays may need to be applied into early september when an infestation is severe. (p. 384) The spray timing is for Pennsylvania, Zone 6

Hello All! I wanted to circle back after my initial post. I did end up applying the iron supplement tree implacts in late March '19 and the tree has been flourishing ever since the leaves started coming out in spring. So i am very happy with that. This is the first time the tree has looked this good for the entire season. The directions on the supplement say it may need to be reapplied every 2-3 seasons. Any suggestions on if I should just re-apply in spring '21 or should I wait until/if i see any yellowing or signs of the chlorosis again first?