lee, it depends. If it it tile over gysum core board, the gypsum board will likely be wrecked. Which is fine. lol If it's over cement board, it depends on the strength of the bond between the tile and the backer board. If it's over a floated mud wall, you can usually pop the tiles off and then just make repairs to the divots in the mud. Every case is different. Lastly, it depends on the type of waterproofing or drainage plane you have in your shower. If you have 6-mil poly behind the backer board, that will usually remain intact. In that case, you can repair or piece in new backer board as needed, then retile. If you had a topical membrane, then you'd want to try to maintain your existing backer board, and the membrane can be recoated. My preferred way to remove existing tile with minimal damage to the backer board is to chuck a diamond wheel in a grinder. I first cut out the grout around the perimeter of the tiles that I want to remove. I then cut out the grout around a tile in the middle of the wall. Next, it depends on the size of the tile, but I'll usually cut an "X", or on larger tile, a # pattern through the depth of the middle tile. I then use a chisel at a low angle and cleave the tile sections off the backer board. If the tile has a weak bond with the backer board, you might b able to pop the remaining whole tiles right off the backer board without damaging the board. If the tiles take the backer board with them, then you might have to section the remaining tiles with the X or # pattern. The smaller the pieces you section the tile in to, the less damage you'll do to the backer board. It's easier to pop off small pieces than large pieces.

So sorry it's taken me so long to see your question (I blame it on my decision to start a PhD program while continuing to work full time AND building new kitchen cabinets - I'm a glutton for punishment!). DH swears that he verified the waterproofing after the tear-out. I do appreciate the questioning though, because if it weren't for the previous experience of DH and our previous contractors (who did our other baths and were fabulous), I wouldn't have a clue about the waterproofing specs. But there's more: I insisted on a second tear-out/re-do in another area. The tiler started the layout for the tile around the entry to the shower, on a vertical partial-wall, with full tiles at the bottom, and near the top it devolved into a series of diminishing tiles. I can't even fathom why. All the cut pieces were front and center, where they were most obvious. So at that point, I spent a Saturday measuring all the remaining areas and drew the proper layout in sketch-up. I gave it to DH and said he needed to insist on that layout and tell the tiler to ask before deviating more than 1/4" on any cuts. (He didn't deviate, and it turned out great.) Yesterday the tiler was here and DH was not. So instead of studying for my finals, I got to explain to the tiler why it was NOT ok to hide a large gap on the back toilet wall by building out the adjacent wall with a 1/4" skim coat. My head almost exploded when he suggested that... but instead I calmly explained that I would be doing all of the finish carpentry, and I considered it my job to hide such imperfections. I also calmly suggested that if he continues doing tile jobs, he should consider such issues during the layout phase. Lessons learned: Be careful who you hire and why you hire them. You're not doing a friend a favor, and definitely not saving money, by hiring somebody just because they need work and you think they'll do a decent job. This has been the most expensive and lowest-quality install we've ever had. Plus the guy only shows up for about 2 days every 2-3 weeks so it's taking For...Ev.....Er.... (fortunately this is the "extra" extra bathroom). Another lesson: "Green" remodeling uses high-quality materials AND high-quality installation. It turned my stomach to have good tile torn out, but it also turned my stomach to see lovely tile installed like an afterthought. Last lesson learned: While some spouses are very handy, they are not always good project managers, especially when working with difficult situations. But hopefully they're coachable. (At least we're still married and in love.) But of course you all knew these. So did I, but that didn't stop me from forgetting and relearning. I'll try to remember to post photos when finished. Thanks again for advice (and giving me space to vent!).

Ok so, so sorry but here: Master- 1) Lay-out is awful. You shouldn't have that small tile at the inside (a pro balances the lay-out prior to install). Yes your concerns regarding uneven and improper slope are valid. Pretty basic standard for tile installation, especially on a shower floor where proper pitch to drain is imperative. Being concerned about the damage occurring from tearing it out is a mute point as you will have major issues as it is. 2) As others have stated, that should be caulk and always caulk at change of planes, not grout. And no, it isn't common for professionals to install on a surface that isn't plumb and flat. If either the general or the tile contractor do not shim and level to prepare for tile, then standards are being ignored and you have a problem. It's poorly done. 3) That is the very cheapest drain assembly available (if it was speced and this was a very low end build, then maybe that was to be expected but as a customer you should be aware of the quality of the product being used). Very unprofessional job around the drain. It should be cut so nicely around the drain that you don't even notice the grout. It is definitely not an "average job". In the tile world, we would call it a "hack job". Guest - 1) Multiple possibilities for the grout pinholes, all related to skill and craftsmanship. Could you dab grout in those places and hope it looks a little better? If you bought a new car would you ask them to fix the paint or dents before you drove it off the lot? You shouldn't need to do patch work on something new. 2) Caulk but remove grout first. 3) Caulk and color match, not clear. Clear is a bad idea there. Now, I'm sorry if we sound harsh. It's an exciting time to move into a new home. If consumers do not hold the builders to basic standards, there will continue to be builders that take short cuts and perform sub-standard work. ALL builds should adhere to basic standards and there is no excuse for what you are seeing. (I hate to say it but I'd be concerned about the methods used to build and waterproof the wet areas, what you can't see, based on what you can see). One place to start is to ask your contractor to document how all aspects of the tile work conform to TCNA industry standards.

If it's the case not to grout corners but use silicone, do they make it in all the same colors they make grout because our grout is gray not white. And it would be stupid to use white caulk with gray grout. It also seems to grow mold more easily than grout.