This thread is taking an interesting architectural style/history direction, IMO. Many people do want to understand the design of their home and many others want some degree of authentic character and appearance. What are some options here? You ask about farmhouse character. Farmhouse aesthetic is difficult to define--it's more of a commercial real estate term, I think, than a defined architectural historical style. But there are some common characterisitics we might generalize: --Casual, sometimes irregular and informal arrangements (symmetry and formality don't usually play a big role); --Compact, economical 2-story forms (seldom sprawling, rambling or "rancher") --Gable roofs commonly w/overhanging exposed rafter tails on the rake sides and possibly eves; --Porches (the more the better); --Simple fenestration--often employing single vertically proportioned double-hung windows (perhaps with shutters or not) --Simple, unified "carpenter-style" straight-forward construction, materials, details and finishes --Little or no decoration, fancy turnings, Greek revival or Craftsman columns, mouldings, trims, etc. No gee-gaws! Of course, there are many exceptions and other characteristics leading to "farm-style". I'd say the things you would need to do most for your elevation would be to: --Change the hip roof to a simple gable roof; --Eliminate and consolidate exterior materials to a limited, harmonious palette, ie, stone wainscot (mandatory use in your neighborhood) and horizontal lap siding or something similar. I'm sure there are many other ideas! Good luck on your project!

Just for reference, these are the finishes in terms of color we have chosen. I'm aware that dentil molding is quite different than exposed rafters, but we are looking to add some more detail to the trim work of the house, and didn't know which one better fit our house's style? Would doing some form of brackets work better than any other option? We also plan to have much wider trim and facia than what is in the drawing. palimpsest- do you have any photo references for me of the eave returns and such that you mentioned? How do exposed rafter tails hold up in terms of maintenance and such? We really appreciate the feedback and advice! Thanks!

Thanks so much everyone for helping me. Wanted to update that things went well. Met with the builder. The wider trim was included. He does 3" frieze board even though it did not show one. Asking to upgrade to 6". Changed it to traditional returns instead of porkchops and we went over a couple other small things. The roof he was aware of long time ago. He said he does not do 2/12 roofs. Asked specifically for 4/12 and he said he is working that with the framer who will be starting soon. Am hoping that he uses the technique that JDS so kindly drew above. Like the idea of better insulation. Between that and using 4' window in the back could be enough. If not as a last resort was thinking we could upgrade to 9' ceilings upstairs. If we do all that then front porch can be 4/12 too. This is a small town and he is on site a lot. The framer has an office next to his. They are friends and work closely together. Feeling confident that it will work out in the end. Do have one question. He asked me about how I wanted the trim to sit around the windows. He said sides and back can be done like the picture on left to save money. Not sure how much though. It looks like the window sits on top of the trim vs inset a little bit. The one thing I don't like about it is the trim and window are not the same color of white exactly. With it inset a little bit it looks much nicer to me.

I don't see a gutter but a drip edge in dark green - nothing should be attached to that. From the pic it looks like the white fascia has eased edges and is only about 1" or 1 1/4" tall max - so it could be PVC rather than a 2 1/2" HardieTrim or ripped HardieTrim. A proper detail would have a 2x subfascia and/or nailers to fasten the soffit to, then a full-height fascia (material of your choice) fastened on top of the subfascia. Here there is an opening behind the drip edge because the fascia is not tall enough, hopefully that is on purpose to provide attic venting but can't tell, so it could be detailed like that or the builder did cut corners. If investigation of the why's and how's proves ok, then the soffit can be fastened back up to the rafter tails. Here are 2 details to hopefully help you understand what may be/should be happening: