Yay! Perhaps permanent Daylight Savings Time is coming!
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extending daylight indoors
Comments (6)400 watt is going to be too expensive to run.. That is why I'm trying to take advantage of the big 5' x 5' south facing window to provide as much light as possible.... I could possibly start with a 150 or a 200 and then add another and stagger their times so that the first 2 hours of the day both are on, the next 2 hours only 1, the next four hours both off (sunlight only), the next two one of them on, and the last 2 both on..... Does that sound workable? I'm pretty low on money (lost business when economy crashed and have been struggling ever since) so I need to keep the utility bill down as much as possible... The price on the light you linked is not too bad..... Have to think on this a while.... I have two other windows along the same wall I need to grow plants in, and will have to light them too.. although, they will only be about a foot deep instead of the three feet this window requires... so I will probably use one or two 48" t5 flourescents in each of those and drop them down to right over the plants... Not too concerned about the heat or weight.. will be suspending them from the ceiling or a heavy duty wall mounted plywood bracket, using pulleys (which reduces the amount of force required to lift and lower them) and the ceiling is 10' high in a 600 'sq room that needs some heat in it during the winter anyways... I have to rethink the whole 400 watt thing... maybe I can justify it by using it to help heat the room and won't have to use an oil filled room heater at all... gotta do some calculating.. How high above the plants should it be to prevent burning them, and also get enough spread for a 5' x 4' area? I'll probably need fans anyways, so maybe I can use them to help redirect the heat to heat the room? This post was edited by ongodsmountain on Sun, Nov 9, 14 at 12:31...See MoreCleaning - Saving the earth - Saving $$
Comments (26)I just bought a cloth from a company called Norwex. It is a microfibre cloth made esp. for mirrors and windows. This thing is miraculous. I washed all my outside windows after a dirty winter with the one cloth, without rinsing it. And it left no streaks. It is one of those companies that sells thru hostesses and it might only be available here in Canada. If they were cheaper, it is one of those products I would buy in bulk to give away to all my friends and family. Unfortunately, I think they cost something like $15 a piece. If you're happy with the regular microfibre, just remember to wash it alone. If you wash them with other things then they leave lint when you use them on mirrors or glass....See Morethoughts on permanent soil enhancement
Comments (8)Thanks for sharing your views. I agree one mustn't generalize, which is why I tried to add a lot of caveats. "Rhododendrons prefer the organic media to the mineral soil." Well that could be true of most of our species; but I'm fairly certain many though perhaps not most of the Asian species grow on gritty mountain soils that probably have only a very thin layer of organic duff; the plants surely have to do most of their anchoring in very abiotic mineral soils. In fact I seem to vaguely recall reading a paper pointing out that these screes have a unique mineral balance such that, even though they are not particularly acidic (suggesting again a paucity of organic material) the native Rhododendrons are uniquely adapted to their mix of cation traces and thrive. "My garden is steeply sloped with granite and granitc gneiss ledge close to the surface." So, not to seem argumentative, but you're close to having ideal conditions for avoiding root rot...not to even mention the vastly cooler climate of Maine. That you would even have a bit of trouble with, well, anything, just underscores what a difficult genus it can be. The fastest death I ever saw was a 'Biskra' from RSF. Literally keeled over a week or so after the steam bath started in late May or June. I've grown scads of oddball plants (within reason, I certainly haven't tried any Meconopsis!) but you really have to search high and low for something that sensitive. The alpine proteas of South Africa can die that quickly; though I surprised myself by getting a Protea dracomontana through at least one summer a few years ago. Anyhow...I think these products do give people in _certain_ climates a slight edge. For example I know a very serious conifer collection in NC who swears by permatil, and the NCSU arboretum used it extensively for some of their beds. But they are not a magic bullet. Correct planting and siting is the bigger part of the battle. As I probably posted elsewhere I rescued a 'My Jane' merely by moving it onto a mound...of my plain loamy clay. It was in an area I had not "improved" yet. As you said: "and place it on top of what's there without doing any digging at all." My approach is pretty close to that; most of the root mass above the level of the surrounding soil. Then mound up. However the "turfaced" bed preceded this realization and the plants in it, 'Leo', 'Captain Jack', 'Sun Dust', a few others I can't remember now...all have been doing very well for several years. And, again, it's hard for me to think things would be exactly the same if I'd (I now realize) too deep planted them in what was there before. I did give 'Leo' a little lift of 3" because I was worried it was getting a little too low. Because my county has several rock quarries I can get pea gravel delivered rather cheaply. I might try that for another tilling/grading/mounding project one day. It will be cheaper than turface by far. It's funny I'm even discussing this minutiae though...the real problem w/my rhododendron collection is I just have too many plants that I want to allow to grow unimpeded, and not enough room for them. Room with shade I should say. I've obtained a whole bunch of these Taxodium hybrids with the hope that they will create reliable, high shade faster than just about anything else out there. (cf: http://www.camforest.com/product_p/ts-tdisbanita.htm) I've been in "denial" about my high shade problem but at least have a plan of attack now. (I had not planned to take rhodies nearly so seriously until I visited Rarefind in spring of 2006...and then the addiction crept up on me without really pausing and thinking how to deal with it!)...See MoreYay, I saved it!
Comments (18)For your other guy, I normally water when it looks like the soil has slightly come away from the side of the pot. That normally means that it's dried inside enough, but it's always best to check with a finger first. Reach deep into the dirt , pull it out and rub your finger against your thumb. Do you feel actual moisture/water on your fingertip or just a bit cool but actually dry when you rub your fingers together. This is how I taught my husband to check plants since he can't just listen to them like most people do..... That's how I decide it....you may find a better way....See More- 4 years ago
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