The sink top is made of poly-marble / ceramic material. It is very fragile and in fact broken when first delivered. The issue with tile is that it is just as thick - 3/8" of tile but the mortar will make it at least 3/4" thick if not more. On top of that, we will need grout, which is not waterproof, in between the mosaic. I am currently hoping of using a short backsplash such that it is not blocking the access to the drain stopper but also blocks some water.

Old thread but let us be realistic about adding a drawer. 2 2.x 4's stacked is only around 3" of space. 3" minus clearance allowance for the drawer bottom. Minus 1/2" thickness of the drawer bottom. You might get a 2 1/4" deep drawer in there. Using side mount slides. And a drawer with a planted on plywood drawer bottom. Forget using those fancy Blum bottom mounts. Those require drawer bottoms that are recessed. 'In there'--means you have to pull the oven out of the hole in order to mount the drawer slides. After you get the 2 x 4's fastened down and square with the cabinet. Those 2 x 4's cost you at least 7" of potential drawer width. Then you have to come up with a drawer front that matches the cabinets. Not. Worth. It. And dang, I forgot all about needing to use at least a 3/4" wide piece of material at the top of the opening--face frame construction. Your drawer just shrunk by another 3/4". The metal trim is a good idea. Another solution is to glue and pocket screw a filler in place to cover the gap before installing the oven.

Nichole- 1. It looks like you did a pretty good job of installing it, but, as I suspected, you can get that vanity pushed back against the back wall by re-doing the drain. I can see that your vanity is sitting away from the back wall because the way you installed the P-trap doesn't allow the drain pipe coming down from the sink to get any closer to the back wall. However, you can do an offset installation that will allow you to move the vanity back. Sometimes this means adding a couple of connections to the arrangement to allow this to occur. There are many ways to do this, but here is a photo of one such situation that will explain what I am talking about: It looks more complicated, and it is, but adding fittings like this is entirely to code. Here are more photos to show you what is possible: Offset P-trap As far as the gaps, you could get some wood trim -- quarter round or shoe molding -- paint it or seal it with polyurethane, and install it. I'd do that on all three sides for looks, and miter it in the corners. You should also run some clear silicone around the bottom of the trim so water can't get under it. If you can't find wood molding big enough to cover the gap entirely, you could do a "built-up" molding, which uses two pieces of molding, like this: There are many different styles you can combine to get the look you like. If you add trim like this, make sure there is enough room between the back of the faucet and the wall so the trim on the sides fits in the back, too. Lastly, make sure the vanity is affixed to the wall so it doesn't move around over time. Good luck.

Unfortunately, I don’t see an easy way to hide those gaps. If there was a front overhang for the countertop, you could easily apply a small piece of trim molding on both sides. However, with no overhang, the problem is how to esthetically terminate the top end of the trim. You’ll have to decide if having an exposed top end to the trim with some kind of bevel is acceptable. I wouldn’t try to build up the surface, or to caulk into those cracks. It wouldn’t look very good, and would just draw attention to the issue. It would be better to just learn to live with them, than to do such a bastardized fix.