Gap under single wall oven- filling the gap advice
Patrick Ritchie
6 years ago
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Comments (26)
Sabrina Alfin Interiors
6 years agoSina Sadeddin Architectural Design
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Installing wall oven under cooktop--gap needed between?
Comments (11)"They just don't list other competitor's models in their specs. .. that Kitchenaid is "under their blanket of coverage". ." Hmmm. Kitchenaid and JennAir are both Whirlpool brands and manufactured in Whirlpool factories. Not really competitors, at all. But, as weed says, there may be different control placements which may affect clearances. Good that you checked with the helpline at JA as this info may help others. Additionally, you might want to check out the very long thread on JennAir induction cooktops over on Chowhound. The postings for the last couple of weeks are that some JA induction cooktop owners have been having diffculties with getting "streak-free" cleaning of the cooktops and some are finding that JA's "boil-over" sensors are overactive in shutting down the cooktop. (I'm not suggesting you avoid the JA, just that you get a sense of potential issues.) BTW, if you haven't been to the Chowhound site before. be aware that the organization of posts within threads can be confusing There is a clock icon at the top, just below the OP. You can click on it to sort posts in chronological order. However, many posts have replies as "sub-posts." Those subposts only get sorted under the lead to which they were replies. You may have to scan the thread to find the most recent discussions that I mentioned. Here is a link that might be useful: chowhound thread....See MoreHow do I fill gap behind a shower wall and title to flush mount?
Comments (23)Thx yes was going look around the control valve next. Looks to me that the tile has not been routinely maintained (sealed). So some aging and cracking in grout may have added to the problem. Been in the house two years with no visible issues with daily use, it looked perfect (e.g. no staining in bottom grout until suddenly now). This disscussion really makes me wonder about the way tubs are sealed to walls. A Silicon seal acting like a ~1/4" water dike trapping and holding water makes no sense. Seems to me that there should be a 1/2" gap under the wall backboard with current recommended water barrier behind extended 1/4" further overlapping the tub flange. And their should be engineered a flexible polymer strip to be inserted in the gap to seal between the tub ledge and the tile. It should have antimicrobials in it and be treated annually with an application of antimicrobial treatment. The invention could be a firm microbubble nondegradable polymer. And it should have a GoreTex film like property, where free water can't get across it, very little moisture is held so it dries quickly, and moisture settling behind the bottom tile can excape as water vapor. Slight permeability to the flexible material and a fused backing of the Goretex oriented towards the flange wall could accomplish this. It could have a thin flap on the back topside so it is installed along with the bottom tile and act as the standard 1/8" spacer below the bottom tile. Being flexible and supported from the back edge it could flex downward if the tub ledge moves downward when weight loaded, still helping block water entry. If the tub settles a little permanently, the permeable membrane would still help block transport water out of the gap. A spongy expandable sealed bubble like strip material would allow the most water blockage with flexing and also be best at preventing any air gap developing. Just an idea ... on my wish list....See MoreBathroom remodel - Bathtub and wall Gap
Comments (5)Geoffreys almost got it. In the professional world, I would make it right starting with removing this and doing it correct from framing thru to waterproofing You have the wrong tub to start and the Flange needs to be be properly lapped and the waterproofing tied into it or you will have issues in time. You need the durock to be graded toward the tub, lapped over the flange and either A moisture barrier siliconed to the flange under the durock (which is a piss poor approach when you consider putting screws thru the moisture barrier on a tub deck but it is still accpeted as a practice.) *The smarter way is to use a topical membrane that ties into the tub deck with A proper sealant that will lap the tub/durock joint and stop durock from wicking.. Also read the durock installation specs in regards to screw courses.and framing specs. If im in somebodys home accepting payment *Thats how its done..but we are on the web here....do as you wish.....See MoreGap between wall and rangetop
Comments (23)kathi, I just spoke with Miele customer support and two different guys there both told me that their definition of "non-combustible" was ceramic tile or some other non-combustible surface. One of them told me his parents have my new rangetop with just a tile backsplash. He seemed to think it was pretty funny that I was worried about it. Maybe the manufacturers use the term "non-combustible" in a less precise fashion?...See MorePatrick Ritchie
6 years agoPatrick Ritchie
6 years agoathomeeileen
6 years agoSabrina Alfin Interiors
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6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoMattman
6 years agoPatrick Ritchie
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