Cpartist, where were you in 2012 and 2015? :) If the question was asked implying that people who weren't here in 2012 or 2015 might be interested in the info, I hear you, IF the person pulling the thread up had asked a question or was looking for new info. But that's not what happened. A brand new member chimed in. It's their only comment on this site and it was a comment trying to show how knowledgeable they are. However to answer your comment. I was here in 2015. :) And I've been a member since 2010.

Almost every state has adopted the International Residential Code to some extent. http://www.iccsafe.org/gr/Documents/stateadoptions.pdf Some are not statewide. Some have adopted the UPC and not the plumbing section if the IRC. About 33 states use the International Plumbing Code. About 10 states use the Uniform Plumbing Code. http://www.tests.com/State-Plumbing-Codes-License UPC 2012, 2015 408.5 Finished Curb or Threshold. Where a shower receptor has a finished dam, curb, or threshold it shall be not less than 1 inch (25.4 mm) lower than the sides and back of such receptor. IN NO CASE shall a dam or threshold be less than 2 inches (51 mm) or exceeding 9 inches (229 mm) in depth where measured from the top of the dam or threshold to the top of the drain. Each such receptor shall be provided with an integral nailing flange to be located where the receptor meets the vertical surface of the finished interior of the shower compartment. The flange shall be watertight and extend vertically not less than 1 inch (25.4 mm) above the top of the sides of the receptor. The finished floor of the receptor shall slope uniformly from the sides towards the drain not less than 1⁄4inch per foot (20.8 mm/m), nor more than 1⁄2inch per foot (41.8 mm/m). Thresholds shall be of sufficient width to accommodate a minimum 22 inch (559 mm) door. Shower doors shall open so as to maintain not less than a 22 inch (559 mm) unobstructed opening for egress. IPC 2012 SECTION 101 GENERAL [A] 101.2 Scope. Exception: Detached one- and two-family dwellings and multiple single-family dwellings (townhouses) not more than three stories high with separate means of egress and their accessory structures shall comply with the International Residential Code. IRC 2012 LATEST CODE CYCLE SECTION P2709 SHOWER RECEPTORS P2709.1 Construction. Where a shower receptor has a finished curb threshold, it shall be not less than 1 inch (25 mm) below the sides and back of the receptor. The curb shall be not less than 2 inches (51 mm) and not more than 9 inches (229 mm) deep when measured from the top of the curb to the top of the drain. The finished floor shall slope uniformly toward the drain not less than 1/4 unit vertical in 12 units horizontal (2-percent slope) nor more than 1/2 unit vertical per 12 units horizontal (4-percent slope) and floor drains shall be flanged to provide a water-tight joint in the floor. http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icc/ansi/2009/a117p1/icc_ansi_2009_a117p1_6_sec008_par024.htm ANSI A117.1 (accessible) LINK current code 608.6 Thresholds. Thresholds in roll-in-type shower compartments shall be 1/2 inch (13 mm) maximum in height in accordance with Section 303. In transfer-type shower compartments, thresholds 1/2 inch (13 mm) maximum in height shall be beveled, rounded, or vertical. EXCEPTION: In existing facilities, in transfer-type shower compartments where provision of a threshold 1/2 inch (13 mm) in height would disturb the structural reinforcement of the floor slab, a threshold 2 inches (51 mm) maximum in height shall be permitted. The above exception is stating that there is no excuse to not have 2" between the top of the drain and the top of the curb or floor, whichever comes first. A curbless shower isn't even an ADA requirement, and therefore is not an excuse to circumvent other codes. VIDEO http://www.access-board.gov/guidelines-and-standards/buildings-and-sites/about-the-ada-standards/guide-to-the-ada-standards# Illustrated guide explicitly saying curbless showers are not allowed. http://www.countyofnapa.org/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=4294980783  Effective 7/1/2015 (NOT OUTDATED) DESIGN SPECIFICS http://www.iapmo.org/Documents/CPC%202013%20Supplement%20effective%207115.pdf  They make flexible rollover dams for those that really NEED it. You may also get a code variance if you NEED an ADA compliant bathroom, but you can not just pick and choose which part of the code you want to follow. If you get a variance for an ADA reason, the whole bathroom better be ADA compliant, complete with grab bars, fold down seats, large turning radius, ADA sinks and toilet, and access all the way back to the parking lot. If you think that any or all of the pictures on Houzz are code compliant, you are mistaken. Whether an inspector chooses to enforce the code is a totally different matter. Some places have no enforcement, and others let the fox guard the hen house by letting architects inspect their own work. Mr Wiffle can argue with the code all he wants, but to say that the codes don't require the 2" rise between the door and the drain is clearly wrong.

I think shelayne is mistaken. Below is photo from the Miele brochure comparing ADA and non ADA dishwashers. You can see in the ADA the middle tray is seriously compromised. You can't even fit a dinner tray on that. So I wonder if it's better to get an ADA without a cutlery tray to increase the usability of the top tray. Or if I should get an ADA with a cutlery tray and a limited middle rack. I've never had a dw with a cutlery tray so I don't know how useful it is but it sounds like a great feature to have. Not sure if it's great enough to compromise the tray below it though. So I need to decide if I'm going to get an ADA dw with or without a cutlery tray? Thoughts? Advice? Suggestions? HELP! :-)

@Sophia I just build a house that is what I call "senior real" (easy to get around, minimize falling), including the bathroom. Your architectural plan quite makes me dizzy, so I'll focus on just a few areas. 1. The first thing I noticed was how difficult it will be to be on a Zoom meeting in the Computer nook while another occupant is practicing the clarinet in the Music Room. Eeeeek! (literally, if you're just learning). 2. Guest (downstairs) suite; swap the bathroom and closet. Do not, under any conditions, put the toilet into a booth. Consider how you have to get in one of those; you have to kind of back in. To wipe, you have to kind of turn around squeezed in with your back to the door. Flush, then turn around again in a tight space. And suppose there has to be a helper? And how are you going to fit grab bars in there? Don't do it! My bathroom is ADA compliant (5' wheelchair turning radius), and it has a barn door. I know designers on here don't like barn doors for bathrooms, but the bathroom door in your suite only goes to the bedroom, not to the living room or anything like that. I can't tell you how genius this barn door is! The best thing I ever decided! It rolls right open with barely a flick of my finger. No going in through a door and then closing it behind me (since I'm solo, half the time I don't bother closing it, even) and then doing that in reverse. I have an extra air circulation boost right outside the bathroom. I hit it when I'm done. The house gets a new batch of air. I have a wall-mount sink. Very plain. I had all the walls in the bathroom reinforced, so if I want, I can put grab bars wherever. For some reason, I LOVE my sink. (It's Kohler); I think maybe because it's large, much larger than I could have in a vanity. You can get special valves on the shower to keep it from putting out scalding water The toilet for a bathroom like that would be elongated and "comfort height" (which I hate, but most Americans like). I have a curbless shower; no tub. Tubs are too risky. What you don't hear about curbless showers is how easy they are to clean. At the end of the day, when it's dried out, I can vacuum it lol. I could use a vacuum steamer in there if I wanted. Because I'm on a budget, I have cork floors. It turns out, I love them. My feet never get cold in the bathroom. And having rugs down is a tripping risk, so that's important. For a little bit of luxe, I've added a towel warmer (it also gave me more wall space to hang towels). If I'd had the budget, I would have tried to get one of those plumbed towel warmers because they warm up the space significantly, and bathrooms with a 5' turning radius might seem a little drafty. Elderly folks might really appreciate this. -the granny-suite closet should be reach-in. It's too hard to turn around in a walk-in. General, and most of these items will have insignificant cost: -When you choose windows, make sure someone in a chair can see out. I can sit on my couch and enjoy view and critters (actually from everywhere in the house except above my bed where I need privacy). In case someone is confined to bed, make sure they can see out from the bed. -All the doorways on the bottom floor of the house should be extra wide. Mine are 36". -In the home he built for his elderly father, my builder put deep-ish chair rails at hand height along the corridors and needed walls spaces. These are wide enough to steady someone, or let them grip for a moment; but really, they just look like chair rails. -lower all the light switches. There's an ADA standard. -all the exterior doors should be extra wide -wood floors; use area rugs for now, remove the area rugs if tripping is an issue. -Light switches should be rockers, not flip switches. -Put electric sockets higher than standard, so you can plug things in without crawling around. -If elderly folks will be using a microwave, make sure you have one low down so they don't end up with hot soup in their face. -use levers instead of twisty doorknobs -use c-shaped pulls in the kitchen instead of any kind of knob (arthritis can make knobs and switches very difficult) -put lights EVERYWHERE. I have maybe two extra in the bathroom, including over the shower, so I don't get disoriented. I added an additional 6 Ikea floor and table lamps of various descriptions in about half (aka 300 sq feet) of my house. My eyes don't work the way they used to, and I need light. -put in extra electric sockets. You'll need them for night lights, towel warmers, CPAP, lamps, lamps, and lamps, electronics, humidifier.... -extra exterior lights, so pathways are very visible -the kitchen should have a place where someone can mix cookies (or prepare a salad or whatever) while sitting (not on a high stool). -I actually had my wall cabinets lowered so I can see into all the shelves -except for my bed and couch, I can easily move my furniture around so I can set things up however I want. I have a groovy footstool for my aging tootsies, and I have a couple of nifty carts that I can pull to wherever I want. All my furnishings are super flexible and adaptable in configuration to whatever my needs in a particular moment. I can easily make room for a wheelchair, if I have a guest with one. -any faucet handle(s) should be the single lever variety; no twisty taps, left and right; besides, the levered faucets are much more practical for virus minimization, since they can be worked with an elbow or wrist -my CERV (air exchanger) can be fitted with MERV-13 filters. They remove viral particles (COVID! Flu! Pneumonia!) I hope this helps! It seems to be only about 1/3 of the nifty little features I had built into the house, so if you have questions, let me know. I tried to think of EVERYTHING, but all is a variant of standard. No extra cost.