Wow...you'd think they'd seal it enough that it would be impermeable. I know they do that with true concrete countertops... Sorry I couldn't be more help. At least you know now that EnviroGlass is significantly different from other recycled glass products. The chipping out issue wouldn't be as much of a danger in a bath, I would think, as it might in a kitchen where implements/dishes etc. might drop on it. You might be able to post this on ApartmentTherapy (in the reNest section, which is their sustainable area) in their "good questions" section -- include a link and say you haven't been able to find consumer feedback yet. They may publish it -- or not -- but it's at least another venue, one possibly more likely to have folks who would use this. Ah, thought of another: maybe try the Sustainable Living Forum here? Sorry again for lack of more help.

FWIW, Pugler, we used Waterlox, a much more durable and water-resistant finish, and, since the sink area is "temporary" counter, set the undermount on top for now. As it is, though, we should have put additional coats in the hole for the faucet. There is a thin discolored ring around its edge that would make me uneasy about what we'd have if we had undermounted the sink. Certainly, I doubt mineral oil would have cut it long term without exceptional care. FWIW, our really noticeable problem is where the soap dispenser rises directly from the wood. The soap chemicals from occasional drips and drops not wiped up (DH the big culprit) started penetrating the finish fairly early on. Note that this is mostly a maintenance problem and could have been avoided, or greatly minimized, with greater care, the kind someone using mineral oil might do as a matter of course. Plus, mineral oil can be reapplied very quickly and easily, unlike Waterlox, whose fumes require relocating for a couple days and can't be kept stored for touchups for any length of time. Other options would have been a metal base plate (yuck), or, better choice for us, waiting to build one in because we've always planned to wrap this high-maintenance area with stainless steel eventually anyway. Also BTW, Waterlox has been beautiful and durable on all our non-soap/water counter areas.

I have a cart used as a center island; the top is butcher block. I can put most hot pans and casseroles on it without a problem. HOWEVER - my mother was extremely fond of cast iron cookware. She was doing some sort of Cajun dish and put the skillet down on the butcherblock. It burned a serious imprint on the butcher block that had to be sanded out. So yes, there is a heat issue with wood, depending on what type of cooking you are doing. For instance, I do a lot of sear-roasting these days, so I do use trivets because I'd rather not risk damaging the countertop again.

Great feedback, thank you. shaggydogs- I'm not sure about that 1.5" thick issue. I know they released their new "SEKTION" kitchen line and that's what I ordered. I noticed during my online building process that the sink base cabinets are now different compared to the old AKURUM models. Maybe they have some adjustments built into the new base cabinets for this difference? I'll place a call to IKEA and find out. milworkman - As for the particle board issue, most laminates are bonded to particle board and when treated well they survive quite awhile. My grandmother has a laminate countertop that's 20 years old and still going strong. But, you're right about the 45 cuts, it's pretty much impossible to do that and keep it sealed. I could just join them together without 45's, but they have beveled edges and I've never been a fan of joining two perpendicular bevels together like that. It just collects debris and bacteria as well as looking "half assed" in terms of build quality in my opinion. So, it seems I may have to give in and return these tops when some solid oak slabs become available ( available stock on these tops in Ottawa Ontario is rarer than a unicorn some years!).