That support column most likely isn't going anywhere whether you rebuild the stairs or not. That's not holding up your stairs, it's holding up your house.

Side nailing supports for the wood treads like that is probably not to code anymore, just like you can't side nail deck components that bear weight anymore. However, the stairs you have can probably be improved to be structurally safe and not wobbly by a carpenter who knows what they are doing. If you want the back of the stairs closed up that is also not particularly hard or all that insanely expensive, again assuming a carpenter that knows what they are doing.

I would add round spindles in either black, white or stained to match between the existing square spindles that are too far apart. Fix the wobble and close in the back of thee stair.

"Is it common to move the location of a staircase as well?"

No, it's rarely cost effective. It's like saying you want to switch from front wheel drive to rear wheel drive but keep the same car.

#1 fix the wobble in the rail. #2 My DH made a gate that matched the staircase and attached it with hinges. All the way open when adults needed to carry what ever up and down, closed when children needed to be corralled or safe. Are the stairs up to code? A child should not fit between the spindles. In the end this is a fairly short lived challenge..kids grow quickly...so the decision is how much to invest in the fix. As stated the one column is going no where. The entire staircase COULD be walled in. Not sure if that is cheaper than new stiles and rails. Lots can be done to fix but the monetary value and aesthetic change to your space is the trade off.

I think you need to get a couple of quotes in your area from stair builders often these are grandfathered in and once you touch them the whole thing needs to be brought up to code . The post is whole other issue and you will need to have that checked out by a structural engineer to see what can be done there. Moving a stair case is expensive and often not what you hoped for since it will affect other things in the home. You can add a railing on the right a simple wood one .

I would have them redone as the open treads are another issue. To hide that post the whole area can be walled in. It would make a good storage closet pantry OR nice bookcases or kids hiding spot from the front.

Thanks for all the responses! Nothing about this staircase is to current code, definitely grandfathered in.

Super Lumen - the beams are to hold up the house - got it. I'm wondering if beams or walls in other parts of the house or a wall could alleviate any of the load.

houssaon - I like the idea of adding to the banister - I'd have to do the loft railing the same too. I have no idea how to fix the wobbly rail at the top because the whole thing is built together. By closing in the back of the staircase, meaning closing it in underneath?

Joseph - thanks for the input - I was thinking demo this staircase and build one someplace else, I guess. Either way it's $$$$

"Nothing about this staircase is to current code, definitely grandfathered in."

What exactly do you think isn’t to code? Photos can be deceiving but they look like fairly deep treads that are not that steep. What exactly is the measurement from the top of one stair to the top of the next, and what is the actual depth of the tread?

They may need a deeper tread and nothing else.

Arcy - I 100% want a custom gate like that. My children are small enough to fit limbs and heads through the spindles. They don't, but they could. 5 1/4" between spindles and 6 1/4" open between treads (yikes). We plan on more children so it would be a continuing problem... Thanks for bringing up the cost/aesthetics/value balance. Good thought

Patricia - thanks for thte thoughts. The problem is there aren't a lot of specialists in my area, just a lot of GCs and new build developers. Other pros in the area seem to be geared toward commercial projects as well. I do need to know how much my problem COSTS before I can budget for it hah. A handrail seems easy enough though.

Lorraine - I do have the kid stuff underneath the stairs - out for the world to see. I'm definitely leaning toward a redo.

bry911 - some details - treads are 1 1/2" thick and the open space between them is 6 1/4''. So about 7 1/2" rise. The tread itself is 9 3/4" long. The steps are 34" wide between the stringers.

Just for clarification, relocating stairs is too expensive to be worth it most of the time. Rebuilding stairs is often nearly as expensive because it so often includes a change to both floors and load bearing walls.

However, if your total run is sufficient then rebuilding stairs is really no more expensive than any other remodel.

Personally, I think open riser stairs can look great. If total run allows, I would get rid of the cleats and quarter round, thicken up the treads a bit,, and install hidden brackets. Give that wood some TLC and have a gorgeous staircase.

Thanks bry911. I realize I never said that I really do like the open look. Just want it done safely. I think I have a 12' run, so that might work. just widen it up a little. Thanks for the suggestions.

A piece of plexi glass tacked on the inside of the spindles would give you a 'temporary' fix that won't affect the homes design, long term. The riser gap is a different issue. Closing them in is rebuilding the stair case, which a contractor can do but how quickly and living in the home while it's happening...are all issues that will come up, on top of the costs. There are tutorials on youtube if your people are handy...this is what my DH would just do--the video won't load here..search how to fill in open tread on stair case.