Next step is to take the pot you've chosen (about 5" wide, fairly deep - say 8", and and it needs to have good drain holes), plus your growing medium - either a soil-based, or soil-less. Not bulb fibre, unless you don't want to keep the bulbs for next year. Plant them so the bulb is just covered with the mix, and water once. Let it drain. Put the pot into a cool and shady place (50F and under. Above freezing.) Leave it there for two weeks or so until the bud is through the neck of the bulb. Some Triumphs were bred using Early tulips - and some can be seriously 'early' - so keep an eye on the pot. When the bud is through, bring the pot into full light. You can water again - enough to keep the mix damp (not 'wet'). Don't let it sit for ages in a saucer of water. Warmth-wise - stay under 65F. The flowers will last longer. Don't spray the plants or 'mist' them indoors. You could encourage mould. Also keep an eye out for aphids. (Don't know where they arrive from, but they do, and they help any viruses shift from plant to plant. Rubber gloves and squish! is the most environmentally safe method of control available.) When they finish flowering, and your outdoor temps are more friendly, you could put the pot out into a sunny, sheltered spot to finish out the season. Take off the flower stalk and leave the leaves. You can feed them each week with normal strength houseplant food. Just - don't feed them while they're in flower, though in-bud is okay.

for tulip,hyacinths, etc. bulbs -don't throw them in the freezer. In fact, don't throw any bulbs in freezers. you are supposed to chill them in the fridge . Put them in paper bags and in your crisper for a few weeks. In fact you could have done this back in teh fall and taken them out this spring. Plant them in pots, add water and they will start popping up. However, you didn't mention what kind of bulbs you have. In fact, I'm curious as to why you'd have tulip bulbs at this time of the year. Tulips normally come out in the fall. So is it possible you have another kind of plant?

You did right by giving them fresh soil. Most forced bulbs planted in the garden will adapt to the seasons and bloom again when they have stored enough nutrients. Provided they are hardy in your zone 5. Tulips are another story. Many do not naturalize. They may put up a few undersized blooms, or just foliage, the 2nd year and then gradually disappear. For that reason many gardeners buy new tulip bulbs every year. But there are a few that will naturalize and bloom each year. Recently someone posted that 'Toronto' has been blooming every year for her and the clump increasing in size. The old Darwins are also considered naturalizers. If your tulips had a cultivar name you could look it up to see to what division they belong. If not it's anybodies guess. Halfway down the page the divisions are listed. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tulip

Usually the single or double early tulips are the easiest for forcing, they're faster to bloom so less chances for trouble and they're shorter so less floppy when they end up stretching for light. If you did well with hyacinths I don't think these will be any more trouble.