Most new heaters claim to not need a firemans switch because of the new firebrick technology. I would preffer even a new heater went through a cooldown period. It just seems it would be hard on the heat exchanger and polymer headers. If it was my backyard, I would probably go with the 3.2kw, it can stand alone. And a dual timer with freeze, and a air switch for the blower. But I'm cheap.....lol Actually in distribution however almost all new pool equipment sets are going out with a computer and a salt system. If the board goes out after warranty, or the salt cell goes bad your looking a grand or more to repair it. For some folks, quite a few around here, that's a chunck of change. For the folks in Colleyville and Southlake [high end neighborhoods near ft worth and dallas] it's chicken feed. Repair guy, I re read my post and realized my salesman went THIS year and I am going NEXT year.....lol. We're almost out of year anyway. I don't have the dates yet. It's not carved in stone, but I'm pretty sure I will get to go.

The more recent version of the NEC made this explicit while it was up for interpret before, only the outside parts need to be insulated ground which ruled out the romex. Of course, your local inspectors may feel otherwise, which is one of those things that the local electricians know. There's absolutely nothing WRONG with running the conduit/THWN all the way back to the panel. It's actually nice NOT to have spurious junctions in there if you can avoid it. There's nothing wrong with running the lighting circuits in the same way (same explanation). There may be some other requirements (deck boxes) depending on the nature of the fixture. It's good to be proactive. Your best education point would be to get a copy of the National Electrical Code and read the Article 680 about pools. Also get your installation instructions for your equipment and read them for any special requirements

Trans, It could be as simple as seeing what wiring comes from the panel and what wiring is located at the switches/outlets. The big IF is if there is any hidden wiring that is different in between what is visible. You are better off running new wire since the knob and tube is a fire risk and you will also get a ground with the new wiring. Doesnt require bringing down walls and ceilings, but there will be holes made depending on attic and crawlspace/basement ceiling access. Carolyn, Cut that contractor loose, he is unwilling to finish the job in a reasonable timeframe. If he tries to bill you and take it to legal, any judge will see his work and timeframe as unacceptable.

One solution to this would be to put in writing that on or after a certain date, you are planning to cut the line at the fence, and if it is not dead by that time, it is his responsibility. To me, that feels like giving the neighbour the smoking gun to use against you in court if something goes wrong. "See your honour, he knew exactly what he was doing and that it could potentially burn down my house. I was unable to act in the time frame that he demanded and he went ahead with his action anyways. I begged him to give me more time, but he wouldn't listen to me and now my poor dog Rover has perished in the resulting fire." If you do put anything in writing, make sure that it's from a lawyer and that the lawyer agrees with your actions. The cheapest route may be to just ask the neighbour if you could pay for an electrician to properly kill the line. Lawyers fees or electrician fees. Which one is cheaper?