I believe the IntelliFlo VF requires an automation system (either the Pentair IntelliTouch, or another brand coupled to the pentair IntelliCom). Any automation system that you purchase comes with a sub-panel built-in at least all the ones IÂve looked at.

YouÂll have to define what "breaking the bank" means in terms of dollars. I am planning on the EasyTouch 8 system (8 relays to control 8 different items) with RF remote, and thatÂll cost me about $2200 installed. IntelliTouch is way more than that.

When you retrofit a control system into the house, youÂll almost always be better off with the RF option instead of hard-wiring a control unit in the house to the equipment on the pad. Price it both ways though.

-Gorilla

quote-I believe the IntelliFlo VF requires an automation system (either the Pentair IntelliTouch, or another brand coupled to the pentair IntelliCom). Any automation system that you purchase comes with a sub-panel built-in at least all the ones IÂve looked at.

Correction.

The variable flow VF3050 is a stand alone system. If you have automation, it will work directly with the IntelliTouch. Any other automated control will require the IntelliCom interface should you desire to not go out to the pump to activate a specific flow rate.

Automated controls do not all come with a sub-panel. There is a specific difference between the "power center" which houses the automation and a "load center" which also houses a sub-panel of breakers.

If purchasing automation, make sure you get the right thing. If going with an Easytouch, your best bet is the 4x160 VS3050 and the EasyTouch 8.

Repair guy is correct. Our outside sales guy and resident guru, went to Pentair University last year, and I will be going this year. He concured with repair guy as well.

Hey Colt, I'm thinking about going too!

Question, hwo can i use a switch in the house to throw a valve to my waterfall & tell the 3.2 to jump to a high flow rate? Do i need automation for that or can i get away with a remote switch & relay, flow sensor type arangement?

A switch of any voltage will throw the pump if wired through an IntelliCom. $400+ right there plus installation. To throw a valve, your going to need he simplest form of a controller. The SunTouch with the 4x160 will do what you want and avoid the IntelliCom. That controller plus the pump is about what you will spend on the 3.2.

deepend,

Based on our e-mails, you said the 3.2 was your choice. If you're thinking about that "to be named later" waterfall and you're goin gwith the 3.2, those options are limited based on what you described before. Remember, you can use the 3.2, program it for a waterfall flow with a topside button and rotate the valve manually. Otherwise, you better go with the 4x160/SunTouch option.

I think i will stick with the 3.2 since the waterfall will be at a later date and not even 100% sure it will come at all.... so no need spend money on auto and valve acts at this time

Now how do i wire up the nat gas heater & swg? Right to the sub panel? Now i was told nat gas heaters need a firemans switch on the pump timer, but im using the 3.2 for the timer? So how does this all work?

The fireman's switch is part of the clock. It only provides protection if the heater is on and the clock is ready to turn off on its own. Rarely an occurance on a residential setting as most owners do not turn on a heater for daily operation. A neccessity on a commercial setting though. Residential heating (long term for a pool) is typically accomplished by removing the stops on a clock as it will take many hours to come up to temp so the theory is the pump will not go off with the heater on as it the stop has been removed. Automated controls remove all of this concern with their built in cool down feature. The pump cannot go off if the heater is on.

For your 3.2, we find it best to wire in the following way:

If there is an existing clock, we wire the pump to the line side of the clock. We leave the SWG and heater on the load side of the clock, remove the stops and leave the clock on. The clock is now a glorified junction box but the one thing we accomplish is not lugging three terminals on one screw.

Some older heaters do not have on/off switches so this is not the best way to wire as if the pressure switch failed, the heater could dry fire so we use a config with the SWG on the line side and the heater on the load side which allows the heater to be cut off. It's extra insurance in knowing that the owner will need to turn power on to the heater.

As you have new work and no clock, you can simply put in a junction box and everything will be powered. The SWG and heater will not work without flow. Some techs have argued that they don't like the heater powered with a dry fire only protected by the pressure switch and to that I say you can add an external flow switch and tie it into the heater fireman's circuit on the board.

Most new heaters claim to not need a firemans switch because of the new firebrick technology. I would preffer even a new heater went through a cooldown period. It just seems it would be hard on the heat exchanger and polymer headers.
If it was my backyard, I would probably go with the 3.2kw, it can stand alone. And a dual timer with freeze, and a air switch for the blower. But I'm cheap.....lol
Actually in distribution however almost all new pool equipment sets are going out with a computer and a salt system. If the board goes out after warranty, or the salt cell goes bad your looking a grand or more to repair it. For some folks, quite a few around here, that's a chunck of change.
For the folks in Colleyville and Southlake [high end neighborhoods near ft worth and dallas] it's chicken feed.
Repair guy, I re read my post and realized my salesman went THIS year and I am going NEXT year.....lol. We're almost out of year anyway. I don't have the dates yet. It's not carved in stone, but I'm pretty sure I will get to go.

PU dates are March 2-7. Now I just need the $700 + airfare. Maybe product manager can scholarship me. HA HA.

Repair guy ever been to long island, ny? I'll fly u out here for a weekend & take u for a nice steak & pay the tuition for u if u can wire me up and get my pool running like well oil'ed machine!!!!! ;-)

nice!

Should i bother getting the pentair "power center or Load center" for possible future expansion? or just go with a cheap sub panel?

Hey i was just checking but correct me if im wrong since I already need a sub panel which will cost me a few hundred right? (these are just equipment prices) Intermatic relay & remote to turn lights on in house, or run wire to the house for a switch.

Or
If i got the pentair load center $400 + I5 intellitouch $500, & indoor control panel $415 i can have all the functionality i could ever need or want, including pushing a button on the house to change the valve to flow to waterfall & jump the 3.2 pump up to high rpm for a set period of time then revert back to filtering so its not left running untill its swtiched off? Turn pool lights on & off? Outdoor lighting on n off?

also, throw a valve if the suction cleaner "The Pool Cleaner" needs more flow at lower pump rpm? I am choosing the right cleaner, right?

Question.... when using the easy touch or sun touch with the 4x160 does it tell u what rpm/gpm/watts are being used as does the 3.2?

ANyone?

No, it will not.

It will not tell you the gallons, watts but you can set the 4 x 160 to a set RPM with the Easy Touch.