Best height for comfort/function/aesthetics for undercabinet vent hood
2 years ago
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- 2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
- 2 years ago
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Vent-A-Hood Ductless ARS range hood Update
Comments (200)Here's our experience with a 42" VAH ARS hood. It sits 24" above a 36" induction cooktop. Our first experience with a recirculating hood. Its pretty, its well made, its basically useless. Our condo is 94" across with the kitchen at the far end. If I start cooking 2 slices of bacon, within minutes the smell has travelled down a hall, through a door and down another hall into a guest bedroom 94 feet away from the cooktop. The unmistakable smell of bacon permeates the air. We've been using it for about a month now. Suction is fine. Anything we cook, can be readily smelled. Save you money and buy cheap. All this does is sweep the cooktop, carry it up the duct and recirculate it into the room. Unfortunately, we now crack our windows at each end to clear the air while cooking. Unfortunate as the prevailing breeze is into the kitchen and out the far end of the condo. But its better than nothing which is how we feel about the VAH ARS hood....See Moreaesthetics versus function and/or practicality
Comments (25)The problem with giving up function for beauty is that beauty fades. What I mean is, if the function you're giving up really hinders your ability to work well, if it's something that will bother you constantly, that beauty will turn ugly very quickly. I'm not saying to make everything totally utilitarian as in a prison or a restaurant kitchen. There's an in-between. But you have to consider the function carefully before going for the beauty instead. And you also have to consider how "beautiful" that beauty really is. For example, some people are dead set on symmetry, to the point where they give up function for it. I believe that symmetry is not only not that important, but that it sometimes can be more beautiful to have things asymetrical. So you really have to weigh the value of the function against the value of the beauty. Some beauty is worth giving up function for, depending on what the function is, and vice-versa. Regarding your windows, you have to decide how much you will miss the extra storage & counter space. Will that be less than you have now or are you going to have more either way, just maybe not as much more if you do the windows? How dark will your kitchen be without the windows? Will you be gaining a ton of light or an incremental amount that might not be worth what you're giving up for it? This decision is totally subjective and you have to decide which one will work better for you in your particular layout. Most of the KDs I talked to were very concerned with aesthetics. I think that's because the look of the kitchen is what most of their customers judge. We here on the KF are the rarer breed who agonize over the details. Based on the discussions I had with (many!) KDs and GCs, the vast majority of remodelers prefer to leave the details up to the KD and/or GC and just want a beautiful kitchen when it's all said and done. As an example of this, if you ever look at model homes, even high $$ homes, about 90% of those gorgeous (and they are gorgeous) kitchens are lacking in the functionality department. But when people buy a house, most of them are not looking at how functional the kitchen is, just how beautiful....See MoreWeek 117 - To Vent or Not to Vent - What is your hood like?
Comments (46)A guy in my daughter's HOA tried to "ban" my vehicle from parking anywhere in the community other than inside DD's garage because it was an "eyesore." It was an inexpensive Ford, about 10 years old, but no dings, dents, or dirt anywhere. He was over ruled and forced to apologize to me, wherein he mentioned a couple of times how angry his wife was at him, haha! The last HOA community I lived in made us fix two shingles that appeared (to them) to be "out of alignment." Oh, did I mention it was the roof of our DOG HOUSE? Never again. Never. Again. Onto the topic at hand. I currently have a vented hood of indeterminate brand. I'm pretty sure it's the original hood in my 37 yr old home, and I'm positive it's never been cleaned (until I moved in). If you recall, I bought this house from hoarders who never, ever cleaned their house. Even after I paid people to clean the whole range (electric coil stovetop), including the hood, it is the most vile, disgusting thing I've ever seen. It's also frighteningly loud. I'm certain it doesn't pull up anything; not grease, not odors, nothing. When I remodel the kitchen, I'll most likely stay with a vented hood since there's already the hole in the roof. I would reconsider if there wasn't a way to use the same hole. I know this topic has been passionately argued over for years on this forum. And I mean passionate! But I've had the recirculating vents before and, at least in my case, have found them adequate (please don't execute me at dawn for saying that!). There are a couple of secrets to keep them working well, and I assume this would also apply to OTR recirculating micros. First, many of them recirculate the air through a charcoal filter. You have to replace that filter once in a while! :-) Just like furnace or A/C filters, if you never replace them, they get dirty and cease to clean the air; in fact, they make it worse after a while. Second, while you're at it, go ahead and clean the other parts too. If you rent, make the management replace the filter when it's due. For now, my "vent" is the two windows in my kitchen. I happen to think my cooking smells good, so the windows are basically to keep a very sensitive smoke alarm from going off. Russ, where can I order one of those pot roast pillows?...See MoreDo canopy style range hoods work better than under-cabinet?
Comments (3)10+ years here trying to teach fundamentals of cooking ventilation based on the extensive HVAC literature available, and there are still tertiary sources of information that barely rise above folk tales. First, the most efficient hoods in terms of performance for their electrical costs will be those developed for commercial purposes; HVAC operating cost is one of the major costs for restaurants, for example, so inadequate performance won't be tolerated. From commercial hoods to residential hoods, "shortcuts" are taken to compensate for low ceilings, noise limitations, need for variable flow rates, reasonable duct sizes, aesthetics, and cost. Residential hood manufacturers design in a trade space pitting performance against cost against aesthetics, and at best, only two of these can be maximized for a given device. In addition, as the goals for grease-free kitchen ventilation have risen along with the availability of higher performance (pro-style) ranges, the performance requirements have greatly increased from the decades-ago small hoods barely removing the steam from a boiling egg pot. As these performance requirements increased, another issue became apparent with the development of low temperature combustion appliances for hot water and household heating; they had such wimpy drafts that they were easily back-drafted when the flow rates of kitchen ventilation, now potentially installed in tightly sealed houses, increased to deal with serious cooking on pro-style ranges. Back-drafting can induce carbon monoxide into the house. This led to code requirements for deliberate make-up air (MUA) systems being required just as they are for restaurants. For an overview of the issues as they pertain to commercial cooking, please download and review the Greenheck Guide at http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/otherinfo/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf. The first 12 or so pages may be sufficient. Note the arguments for the Greenheck approach to CFM requirements. These are ultimately determined by experiment for standard commercial hood designs, but can also be inferred from research on the upward velocities of cooking plumes as a function of burner/hob type along with cooking temperatures of various foods. The requirement boils down to having a sufficient velocity of air flow at the hood entrance aperture and thence the total CFM (air flow rate) needed to achieve that velocity. We also know from plume expansion behavior that the hood should exceed the range size unless side skirts are used. (Side cabinets can help, but usually don't extend far enough from the wall for full effect.) Most don't want side skirts on their hoods. From this we have been using a compromise recommendation of a hood width 3 inches wider than the range top on each side. So choose a sufficiently overlapping hood intake aperture area. For any serious use, choose baffle filter type hoods, preferably with some volume under the baffles for transient plume capture. Calculate the intake aperture area (sq. ft.). Multiply by your chosen velocity value for good containment; I recommend 90 ft/min. This is equivalent to 90 CFM per square foot of aperture. The product number is the actual CFM needed for hood ventilation and, roughly, also to be supplied by the MUA system. Select a duct size that keeps the air velocity in the duct between 1000 ft/min and 2000 ft/min. This is not too significant if the duct is going to be 6 inches between the interior and exterior, but important for ducts passing through floors and attics. All blowers likely to be used for hood ventilation have an actual flow rate that decreases with pressure loss. This is the reduced pressure on the intake side of the blower and increased pressure on the other. In a hood system, this pressure loss comprises the pressure not made up by the MUA system, the pressure loss across the baffles, and the pressure loss incurred by duct transitions, bends, and surface friction. Without knowing all of these losses as a function of flow rate, it is usually safe to specify a blower 1.5 times larger than the actual flow rate calculated earlier. This usually also applies to the MUA; however, without baffles but with characterized dust filters, the losses can be estimated better and compared with the MUA blower's fan curve to assure adequate replacement air to keep house pressure nearly equal to exterior air pressure. MUA requirements are also influenced by Code, nature of combustion appliances and any MUA they may be operating with, and house leakage. Whether the hood is canopy type or (large) under cabinet type is not the issue. Ensure that whichever is more appealing can support the requirements. kas...See More- 2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
- 2 years ago
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