Is the Hestan Ventilation hood the same as Vent-a-Hood?
Jody Dietz
2 years ago
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kaseki
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Giant Vent Hood or Two Separate Hoods?
Comments (12)With regard to code for deep fryer placement in a commercial kitchen, refer to the National Fire Protection Assosication: NFPA 96 12.1.2.4 All deep fat fryers shall be installed with at least a 406-mm (16-in.) space between the fryer and surface flames from adjacent cooking equipment. I'm not claiming that this regulation is in building codes in all areas but it is a guideline. In my experience many inspectors will site "outside" sources such as these if local codes are not clear about requirements. Also keep in mind that if this is a commercial fryer unit, it may not meet safety requirements to be installed in a residential location. If you are building under permit, best to get all of this signed off by the planning department with specifics so that inspectors won't apply their own interpretation of code after you've already committed thousands of dollars to a certain configuration or plan. Good luck....See MoreVent-A-Hood Ductless ARS range hood Update
Comments (198)With conventional hood systems, the expectation is that the larger particles within the entire grease particle spectrum are collected by the baffles, and the smaller particles are ejected into the outside air, with only modest condensation or impact collection by the duct. To deal with the entire particle spectrum with a filter pack is a challenge, and probably unaffordable in cost for most residential users. If the Amazon rating is based on comparison to outside venting, the result above might be reasonable. As a commercial example, the Wells WVU-31CT filter system is described below: "Filtration Completely self-contained filtration process reduces emissions below that allowed in NFPA 96 and ANSI UL710B using the EPA 202 test method and includes stainless steel grease baffle filter with grease cup, fiberglass pre-filters, high-efficiency (Particulate Air) filter/ carbon-charcoal filter pack. All filters are easily removable with out tools. Air flow sensors continually monitor air flow optimizing performance and grease removal while an interlock system will not allow cooking appliances to function if filters are missing, clogged or in the event of a fire." About $18k. Electric surfaces only....See MoreHood Vent to fit 36" Fabuwood Hood
Comments (56)Well, let's see if I'm up to four questions all at once. Rule no. 1, do not believe VaH sales persons trying to explain blower operation unless you have some other means of determining their veracity, and most importantly, their understanding of the fluid dynamics of air. Rule no. 2. Blowers that suck air also blow air and cannot know what is the cause of the pressure differential across the blades, at least at the tiny pressure differences that apply to hood blowers. Pulling air could be a problem when the intake is at feet of water column reduced pressure, not inches. This does not mean that the blowers will be unaffected by operating into a duct bend, or from a hood transition, etc., but in general, even a VaH blower is pulling air from one side and pushing with the other side, and its blower, like all others, is constructed for one direction of air flow and to achieve a particular flow rate performance at a tolerable sound pressure level. I don't keep up with VaH, but I thought that their 1200 CFM (claimed) hood had two 600 CFM blowers, not four 300 CFM blowers. Perhaps they are using two motors, each with two cages. Fan blade tip noise is caused by the turbulence of the air spilling from the blade tip. It results from operating at a high speed exacerbated by spilling from a crude airfoil shape. Casablanca ceiling fans move a lot of air but the turbulence is at most modest due to the low speed of each blade tip. Duct noise is from irregular air flow in ducts. It generally won't be laminar at the flow rates of interest (1000 - 2000 ft/min). Pressure loss of bends is the result of degrading the flow due to increased side wall interaction as the moving air tries to pile into the blockage ahead before turning. Smoother longer turns reduce the effect. VaH Magic Lung blowers use squirrel cage designs that are good, I guess, for throwing grease at the hood walls, but have a weakness -- they don't like added pressure loss relative to some other popular fan configurations, such as axial in-line blowers or centrifugal carousel types such as Wolf/Broan/Abbaka roof blowers, so actual flow due to inadequate MUA or constrictive ducting will have a greater effect on actual flow rate than these other designs. It is certainly possible to build an external chase for ducting and even for the silencer (about 4 inches larger in diameter). Number of bends is worth minimizing, but it is always possible to specify a blower to provide the needed flow rate at a given pressure loss if the bend number cannot be minimized. Roof blowers usually also work mounted on walls. One secondary effect is that on roofs, sunlight UV generally degrades and eliminates any grease that condenses on the blades and is expelled onto the shingles, whereas on siding that is in shade the grease may become noticeable. Commercial blowers operated in up-blast or side-blast configurations likely will not blow grease onto house surfaces, but condensation within the unit may lead to some release around the unit. Downward ducting has a couple of deficiencies. The process of turning a rising plume to a downward direction requires additional energy (equivalent to pressure loss) and likely causes the grease particulates that escape the baffles to condense by impingement early rather than being expelled. To keep the typically long horizontal underfloor duct path from dripping, a continuous down tilt will be desirable, and in a typical basement this may lead to requiring a hole in concrete rather than in a wood wall. Some municipalities may not approve such paths. The "heat rising" view is probably less relevant because the duct velocity will be at least 10X the velocity of the intake to the hood. Last, an observation. My hood blower is rated for 1500 CFM and is roof mounted. Actual flow into my hood is about 1000 CFM with presently passive MUA. This is 100 ft/min air flow across the hood entry aperture. I have a 10-inch duct with LD-10 silencer. Flow is 1800 ft/min in the duct. There are three bends, all less than 90 degrees to get the vertical hood direction to a shallower direction in my attic that encompasses the silencer, then two more partial turns to match the roof blower's intake angle. Note that configurations of this type not only allow room for the silencer, but also allow the hood exhaust to be placed more optimally on the roof, if needed, than exactly above the hood. I hear mainly baffle hiss at the cooktop, with a slight underlying rumble, likely due to imperfect fan carousel balance interacting with imperfectly stiff roof planking. Edit: I feel comfortable asserting the baffle pressure loss, and MUA pressure loss, dominates all the pressure losses in my duct path. tl;dr: An external blower downstream from a silencer will always be quieter than a blower in the hood for a given flow rate so long as the external blower is not constrained to being significantly smaller than the in-hood blower. Other noise will depend on whether the baffle size and shape is reasonable for the air flow rate and the duct size is such that the air flow in the duct is in the range of 1000 to 2000 ft/min. Let me know what I forgot to answer....See MoreBest by Broan Range Hood (WPP9) v Vent-A-Hood (Magic Lung)?
Comments (51)Broan/NuTone/Best make a large range of ventilation equipments and generally you get what you pay for as far as I can tell. However, why a "high end" appliance dealer wouldn't include some other brands is unclear. At a minimum, I would expect a Wolf dealer to have examples of Wolf hoods. (My hood is a Wolf, made by Independent before Wolf moved production in-house.) Decide how high you want the hood for good site lines and reaching to the back burners, and missing one's head, while keeping in mind that the front burners will be emitting plumes that expand as they rise, so height corresponds to increases in needed overlap -- side to side and front to back. 10 degrees from vertical measured from the flame diameters when pans are on the burners can be used for plume expansion estimation. Sketch it out. Given a height and hence width and depth, calculate the square footage of the entry aperture of the hood. For wall hoods the light bar in the front may qualify as partial or whole entry aperture area. Multiply area by 90 CFM/sq. ft. Multiply by 1.5 if you don't know all the pressure losses. Find a blower that has that result as a rated value. Decide on in-hood, in attic (in line), or on roof. Farther away is generally quieter. If there is room for a silencer (Fantech) between blower and hood then the result will be quieter still. There is a lot of dissension about ease of hood cleaning by type. I can say that my Wolf hood baffle assemblies easily remove and can be cleaned in a dishwasher. (I have ten of these, so it takes two loads.) One still wants to reach up inside and wipe the surfaces. I use Simple Green, but likely there are myriad possible choices. I have never owned a VaH, and was initially repulsed (2007) by the Magic Lung® claims. Others like them. If you have guests sitting where they can see into the hood, a baffle system may be aesthetically superior. Duct should be sized so that full power actual flow rate achieves a velocity in the duct between 1000 and 2000 ft/min for best balance between grease condensation and grease impingement. You can go lower (larger duct) if you pre-heat the duct in cold weather. On CFM focus. Standard (if that actually ever applies) residential hoods are designed to fit into residential kitchens. Commercial hoods are designed to fit into commercial kitchens. At a minimum, the typical difference is two feet of ceiling height. When the commercial hood can be built so that there is tremendous volume below its baffles, there are conditions where the specific flow rate (CFM/sq. ft.) can be reduced below the value I suggested above. This is due to "baffle averaging" resulting from the reservoir volume vs. plume steady state and transient volumetric rates. At the other extreme, residential hoods with little volume below the baffles will allow plume escape (capture failure) if the plumes are not immediately entrained into the baffle flow. And, of course, plumes not initially captured are not contained and removed except as a matter of long term kitchen (and whole house) air replacement. So CFM focus varies. Another difference is that commercial hoods are typically operated at a fixed CFM and the MUA is balanced for this case, whereas residential hoods, along with bathroom fans, etc., operate at variable CFM, and this makes the MUA control more complex....See MoreDanny Z
2 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agowdccruise
2 years agoopaone
2 years agoDanny Z
2 years agoJody Dietz
2 years agoSabrina Alfin Interiors
2 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
2 years agowdccruise
2 years agokaseki
2 years agoUser
2 years ago
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