How to cut second trunk of Norwegian spruce?
Danae
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Hay for mulch under Norwegian Spruce
Comments (7)Hay is probably better than lawn mower trimmings. I use it sometimes, about 1" thick. The mower trimmings from my mower are so beaten and "clumpy" that they would not allow good air circulation. Hay, which should be long fibers of grass criss-crossing should be better. Wouldn't go too thick with it tho, unless someone else has used it thicker and with good success. Down here, anything to shade the bare ground from the unrelenting sun is helpful....See MoreBark peeling off a Norwegian Sunset Maple
Comments (25)IMO, leans such as either tree shown in this thread are ultimately insignificant. There will be so much growth in various directions as to make it completely non-issue. OP, while it is admirable that you bothered to follow directions with the planting, those cards are just as often wrong as right. The usual "plant at same depth as in the pot" or whatever completely misses the point that the root flare, that zone of buttressed growth where roots diverge from trunk, is to be left visible upon completion. Since trees are dug in nursery rows after various cultivation practices have thrown soil up over what will be the root ball, that can be completely obscured. Also in potted stock, the plant may well have been placed too deeply into the pot at some point. So directions of that sort are virtually of no value. I always advise that when in doubt about the truth of this concept, people take a walk in the woods and perhaps for the first time in their lives, see how trees actually grow. They kind of sit on top of the ground. And yes, a too-deep planting surely can start a tree down the road to bark/stem abnormalities although as Ark also points out, we can't know for certain what caused this with yours. +oM...See MoreJade trunk separation/ withering cuttings
Comments (13)Thank you all for the prompt responses. First of all, yes, I'm new to succulents. I've had no interest in growing anything that couldn't survive outside all year in my native climate until recently. I've specifically become enamored with crassulas (largely because it was a mature jade given to me that kick-started the obsession). In the last two months, I've poured over these forums on a daily basis, done quite a bit of research elsewhere, and it's gotten to the point where almost everything I read I've already learned, digested, taken notes on, etc. I understand I can't gain experience on the internet, but I'm going to milk what it can offer me for all it's worth. Why do I want to separate the trunks? Because I work with bonsai, and I want to train these as "large" bonsai. I agree that aesthetically it looks great now, but I won't like the way this plant will look in the future if I leave both trunks there. I know that much. I would also prefer the plant puts all its growth into the one trunk as soon as possible. The bigger they get, and the closer their bases grow together, the harder this is going to be down the line. I didn't think this would be a big deal. And if it is, fine. I'll just whack one trunk off above the soil line and try to root it. I'm not offended (really), but not sure why this would be considered overly ambitious. To clear up confusion on my #2 point: I was concerned that if I were to cut these in half (beneath the soil line) that I would run the risk of the plants rotting after I planted them and eventually resumed watering them. They BOTH would have roots already attached, but BOTH would need to heal the separation cut before being watered. While it's claimed that I haven't learned that "your new plant can stand to be bare root for a while, does it no harm at all. As long as it's not in direct sun & is kept DRY, it can be out of mix for a while", I actually have learned this. I've read that and learned that, but it's always phrased similarly. This stuff is all relative. What's a "while"? With other plants, that could refer to a few hours. The plant has been uprooted and dry for a 8 days now. Specifics can be rare when you start looking for them. That's where my confusion comes from. I was never concerned about a week, but two? three? If I were to cut them in half, I would have to leave them unwatered for even longer. What's my limit? As for my plucked leaf theory... the more leaves that were plucked, the softer and wrinklier the branch. (And that's no stretch, it's plain as day). It's the only variable that was changed. I'm just not sure why seeming "anxious" or "ambitious" prevents me from learning how to properly execute a procedure on a notoriously "easy" plant to work with. I've worked successfully with much trickier plants for many years. I can plant the jade as it is, care for it perfectly for years and years, but I'm not going to learn a thing about separating trunks beneath the soil until I ask about it, learn about it, and do it. Right? I'll be right back here asking the same thing, which can be soiled down to: "how risky is this?" If it's obvious I don't "get" some things, please point me in the right direction to acquire that knowledge. After months of reading, I think I get the "basics" (and am tired of reading them, as I'm sure you're all tired of posting them). I just have some specific questions, because I AM ambitious, and eager, and curious. That's why I'm reading the manuals, so to speak, before doing anything I'll later regret. I'm sure everyone can understand that. Oh yeah. As for the cuttings not holding water? They are not potted up. I was advised to let them callus over for at least a week before doing that. It's funny, actually, because they are "standing up DRY in an empty clay pot in the shade". Or were, rather. I moved them inside earlier today, since the trunks have lost 20% of their size in that environment. Thank you, again, for all the responses. I hope my tone isn't too defensive, just trying to clear some things up. I really appreciate the responses. Gray...See MoreWhat Happens If You Cut the Top Off a Norway Spruce?
Comments (8)In many cases the trees will eventually develop new terminal leader(s). If you remove all but one you will sometimes get a reasonably normal tree that has lost a few years in growing taller. Other times you will get a tree with a strange crooked trunk. It may or may not help the bottom grow denser, no guarantee it will always direct extra growth there. If multiple leaders develop and are left to grow, you will have a weak multi-trunked tree prone to storm damage. Bundles of small seedlings are usually available in bundles of 10 or so for $10-$20 a bundle through many nurseries and soil conservation districts in early spring. They are very small but establish well. Maybe planting more each year at a low cost per tree would give you the option of removing those that do not have good form after a few years of growth. ...I would not want to buy nursery stock that has the terminal bud removed. Not a good way to grow an attractive, healthy tree....See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
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2 years agoDanae
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5