The plan, as drawn, looks centered. Are you saying that the fireplace was actually built where the dark pink box is?

The FP looks to be drawn as centered on the vault, not the bumpout wall, however not dimensioned or noted to be. If those are the construction drawings, when something is unclear or without information, a contractor should ask for clarification or they would be just guessing. If he didn't ask and installed it how he liked it, he should move it back after clarification tells him the correct spot.

If the FP is not centered with the vault you would be complaining on Houzz as every other thread does. To have the sink + range be perfectly aligned with the vault and FP is not critical here, as there is too much else going on to get that direct perfect view anyway (distance, pocket door nook, shelving wall, asymmetrical side openings, ref counter wall, wall bump at wine ref, asymmetrical range wall counter).

I agree. The only thing that matters is that the fireplace is centered with the vault.

@decorpatti Correct, the existing fireplace is where I drew the pink box.

@3onthetree Since the FP wasn't drawn in the correct location, if I direct the vault to be re-centered over the FP, the highest pitch won't be centered in the room, which means the slope/angle of each vault side would differ. Maybe it will be suttle or unnoticeable to anyone but me.

I do agree that the vault centered over the FP will be the most noticeable as opposed to sink/range.

I don't plan to do this stone work as pictured up the wall, I think that would draw more attention to the mis matched vault.

My other alternative at this point could just be flat ceilings.

And, thank you for weighing in!!! I have to keep sink and gas location in general range but let me know if you think I should move those or anything else in the kitchen?

There is much more info required to make a good decision than what is presented here.

So your FP is existing, and you've removed all of a flat stick-built ceiling? There are some critical structural things associated with doing that. Is this ridge and rafters going to be just faux, or are you using existing?

Having a vault be "asymmetrical" (differing slopes on each side) may not be problematic design-wise here, because the vault is not too steep or tall and the adjacent room is a shed vault. Other things like the openings and windows (which I see none) play into noticing an asymmetrical vault being out-of-place. Don't forget the added cost and whether you can even hang a false ceiling to offset the ridge location. You should have your architect involved with this.

Edited after reading your edited post: Not sure about the kitchen cabinets/appliance shifting, but you should have the correct info (ref is different location in plan and elevation) and where you are at in ordering cabinets to get good advice.

@3onthetree I will get her involved. This was her mistake putting my existing fireplace into the wrong place/measuring wrong.

We just had a flat ceiling. They are using existing ridge and one side of rafters. They had to frame out new the other side slope of rafters.

Edited to Add- the ref is going to be on the side not on same wall as the range.

With the fridge on the range wall, you can have the prep sink in the island and cleanup sink on the side.

Get the architect involved. To center the firebox you need to take a signicant part of the closet. Its not drawn in a way it can be built.

@Jeffrey R. Grenz, General Contractor @3onthetree

Architect re-drew these scenarios. I am in a predicament - architect likes peak over the fireplace. Framer and GC like vault centered in the room, keep a simple wall and mantle.

Here were a few other options - this last one being a coffered ceiling

I'm still a little curious stemming from the option of changing the roof slope - how you even opened up an existing flat ceiling and gable roof. Typically, if there is a flat ceiling and attic, that means you most likely have a ridge board at the peak (a ridge board has no structural value). Add to the fact that it looks about 24' long, that would also lead to choosing a ridge board. When you want a cathedral ceiling and remove the ceiling joists (which have a structural purpose with the roof) to open it up, you then need to install a ridge beam, which then requires providing some bearing framing at each end.

Was any of this done? How can you move the ridge beam - faux ceiling? What kind of insulation value is required for your roof?

@3onthetree this photo helps you see my roof line - straight line from left to right of the home.

Yes I believe they put a new ridge beam and framing at each end.

@3onthetree my architect has consulted with designers and a designer forum and decided (as you originally said) that if I don't center the vault on the FP I will complain down the road. So, I am pretty certain the answer is to center the vault on the FP. Also got the opinion that the vault is so worthwhile even if the angles differ slightly. So I guess I'll stay the course and have the vault re-framed.