SJ McCarthy, I do have photos of the cracking and rising floor boards. And of the spotty finish, streaks, and drips. The boards have sat untouched and unfinished in our AC home for the last nine months, and within days of the oil and water applications the cracking and rising occurred. It’s been less than ten days since the floor has been finished. The guy who did the work was the owner of a highly rated flooring refinishing company in my area. We agreed to use a water-based finish which is on my contract as Poloplaz 1k water-based floor finish with a matte sheen. When he arrive he talked me into using an oil-based product instead, stating that it would keep the natural color as it is, but also preserve the wood. I apologize for repeating myself here -- I was so fearful of the oil yellowing the white oak which I stated many times to him, but he assured me if it did yellow it wouldn’t be for fifteen to twenty years. He said he would be using a clear, natural, expensive oil-based polyurethane finish that was newly opened. I'm not sure of the brand but I do have a photo of the yellow oil drip down the side of one of the white panels around the stairs. The next day after the oil application he added the matte flat water-based finish and I absolutely know what product he used because after the second coat was applied I followed him out to his truck voicing my concerns about the color/finish of the floor and he showed me the container… Bona Traffic HD extra matte. That’s when he blamed the product for the streaky look of the finish. He said he doesn’t like using this Bona product for quality reasons but because I insisted on a matte finish he didn’t have a choice. He said he could use a different product but it would leave a shine and not have the matte look I wanted. Thankfully the guy did not apply the 'natural poly' over the factory finished Shaw floors. My contract with him states that he would apply it over the entire dining area, and I was charged for it, but at the last minute the decision to not do it was made. The guy is not affiliated with my general contractor because I wanted to hire a flooring ‘professional’ who truly understood hardwood floor finishes. I was incredibly anxious and very select about what I wanted in the finish and it took me a while to find and then trust someone. Unfortunately I paid him in full. Contractors, here at least, are allowed to have a lien against your home if you withhold payment and because I'm not familiar with what that truly means legally for me, as the homeowner, I paid. Thank you for your information regarding an inspector from NWFA -- it's a great idea and I will most certainly make a few phone calls. Recent research has informed me that an oil-based polyurethane needs to cure for at least two weeks to 60 days before adding a water-based finish, do you know if that statement is true? And if so then the pro not waiting for the curing time before applying the water-based finish likely and knowingly voided the warranty on the Bona product -- he's been in business a long time so he would know. Also, is a natural polyurethane the same as an oil-based polyurethane? I'm just making sure I understand everything before speaking with an inspector. Thank you so very much for your advice and time, SJ McCarthy, I really appreciate all of your help.

@Unique Wood Floors Thanks! I will check this out. Wish it were $1 less a foot. Sigh. I love that they have 7 ft lengths (the floor and decore one is max 48 inches, and so it will look very choppy). I bought a box of the closest to what I'm seeking LVP, and what I found was that when light hits it in a certain angle, it looks really, really plasticy and fake. I have 1800 sq ft to do, so don't want to regret it as I'll likely not change the floors for a very, very, very long time! @tozmo1 in LA.

I think it looks awesome! It might not be exactly what you thought, but I think it may be a happy mistake. I gives a little contrast to the floor and a nice back drop for the island. I do agree with Anna - change that trim around the base of the island. That light color will look a mess in a very short time. Assuming you are trying to cover a gap, see if you can get a scribe molding or shoe molding. This looks like a quarter round. . Enjoy!

Congratulations on making it to the final stage of your renovations! To answer your question regarding two versus three coats. It is always recommended to do a minimum of three total coats for a water base system. It can be any of the combos: 1 seal and two top coats 1 stain and two top coats 3 of the same top coats or A Frankenstein system with 1 top coat from brand "A" and two top coats from brand "B". Of, course this can be the same brand but with two different product lines. A couple of exceptions where a thrid top coat should be considered. High traffic areas Contractor applies below coverage Do you have an opinion on which order to lay three coats if we do three? Inv AT, Inv AT, Supra AT Satin, or Inv AT, Supra AT Satin, Supra AT Satin? If, Invisble can be applied evenly, go ahead with two coats of Supra AT. If, Invisble cannot be applied evenly, you may need two coats of Invisible instead of one, then two coats of Supra AT on top afterwards. Which makes it a total of four. If, you are doing a whole house refinish. I recommend doing one coat per day. This will allow each coat plenty of time to dry and have all the chemicals off gas. This helps prevent bubbles and nibs in the next coat. With the Frankenstein system you are using. i would abrade in between each coat for the smoothest result. Light abrasion with 220 grit for the first coat and a more aggressive abrasion with 220 grit prior to the final coat.