Live Wire Oak, this refrigerator is still under warranty and many parts for GE Profile models have a 5 year warranty. I would never have even considered an appliance that didn't have a decent warranty. For a less than one year old refrigerator to have problems is not normal or acceptable. Does anyone really think so? GE's offer of a discount on another model, is not acceptable either. Firstly, there isn't another GE model that I would want. We needed a refrigerator that had lots of space. I took a measuring tape with me to showrooms and measured the shelf space of many different refrigerators. I was surprised that most 24 cu ft models today have even less shelf space than my old 23 year old, 20 cu ft Whirlpool which did not have enough capacity for our needs. (and it was old - but as I stated earlier, never necessitated a service call). And we needed one with the largest refrigerator space - We have a small freezer in the garage. Today's French door and bottom freezers models just don't fill that requirement. We also didn't want an icemaker or water dispenser which take up way too much space and have many problems. This GE Profile model is the only 24 cu ft top freezer on the market. I felt reassured by a ringing endorsement by Consumer Reports at the time we bought it, although I notice that in their most recent ratings, GE refrigerators has lost its high rating status. As for my doing the diagnostics, the GE tech was just here. Wasn't that what he was supposed to do? But as I stated previously, of course we checked the door seals. And, of course I don't know for sure what the problem is, but I realized that once again I can't always depend on those who are supposed to have the skill, knowledge, and experience, to do work the homeowner can't be expected to because the homeowner didn't have years of training and experience. After researching the issue I've read enough to come to believe that the build up of ice in the freezer and water in the refrigerator compartment should not be considered "operating as designed". I wonder if Live Wire Oak understands what is involved in testing and replacing the thermostat. It's just not reasonable to advise that I do this repair myself. I don't have the ability or electrical knowledge. An internet repair clinic advises to"Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this repair". I believe I read that one homeowner who tried this ended up with severe burns. Okay, first step, (according to the instructions on the website), is to locate the defrost thermostat, and in freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit. I'm not sure how I can get under the floor of the unit. Being 5' tall and 96 lbs, I can barely move the beast. And even if I were Wonder Woman, I don't have the equipment to do this repair. For example, in order to test the thermostat, one would need to "set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting". Apparently, the thermostat is wired in series (whatever that means) with the defrost heater. I just wouldn't touch that - even I could get access to it. You might want to check out the post: French Door Refrigerators. mmhmmgood wrote on Sat, Aug 13, 2011, "The only one that might be worth avoiding is GE, consumer reports show a pretty poor brand reliability with GE's fridges. " What I am complaining about is that the service technician was here for 5 minutes and left abruptly, without checking anything other than the evaporator coils. He was not originally scheduled to come to our house that day; we were added at the last minute - the fault of GE service schedulers. He normally starts his calls at 8 but he was forced to start his day earlier because of us and was here at 7:45 and he was quite angry. It was very, very unfortunate for us. And I want to stress that our first refrigerator was replaced because every test the tech did - and he did a number - all done with his laptop connected to a central service location - showed every test as failing. It was under warranty and it was declared "unrepairable". If it's unrepairable, it doesn't make a lot of sense to continually try to repair it. It costs a company money to have to send service people over and over again to try to make repairs (costs in labor and parts) when it knows that the appliance is not repairable.

Here is the explanation I found on the GE website (the link to this is below so you can see the video). Also I looked through a couple of GE Café range manuals where they discussed the Control Lockout on 'some models,' but I suppose those manuals were written pre Summer 2013 because they showed it locking out burners as well. You may have to verify with GE Support about the specific model you are looking at. "Range - Explanation of the Lockout Feature The range Lockout feature allows the user to lock out all oven and surface burner operation. When locked, there can be no unintended oven or surface burner activation. Note: As of summer 2013, the control lockout button locks out the oven controls only, not the gas burners. To activate: 1.press Range Lockout pad 2.press Start To deactivate feature: repeat the steps listed above. If the power fails to the home while the range lockout feature is activated, the range lockout feature will remain activated once the power has been restored. The range lockout feature can also be activated while the surface burners are in use. Once range lockout has been activated the gas will stop flowing to the surface burners. The control panel will flash to remind you to turn the surface burner off. Caution: If the surface burner is left in the on position gas will flow once the range lockout feature has been deactivated. Note: Cooktops with control lock feature, when the lock is engaged and a burner is turned on, the cooktop will buzz and no gas will come out. View a short video about about the lockout feature."" Here is a link that might be useful: GE Lockout Button

Hi orangkitchenbgone, Sorry to say but I was extremely disappointed when I checked out the back of that box. Their pdf info states that depth including door was 23+, which had me excited about the prospect of a built in looking unit under 72" high. I went to Pacific Sales, pulled the unit out to check the back and was dismayed to see a FULL WIDTH ~1 inch deep box at the very bottom of the unit, roughly 6-12 " high or so ( I cant remember the height since I was so angry). This box was exactly where I'd have the line for water and recessed electrical. Also, the Mfr. wants a ridiculous amount of airspace on all sides. From the box to the gasket was over 24 1/2", about 1" more than most (23 5/8 ave) and the door added another 4 inches or so. For me, every inch counts when I want a CD unit...

If you purchase a fridge with an ice maker/dispenser in the refrigerated section of the unit, you are asking for trouble at some point in the future. So yes it will deter me personally from buying a unit such as this. I have has a side by side for years with the dispenser over the freezer door and it has never had an issue. If water and ice is a must, get a unit with the ice in the freezer where it belongs and water in on the inside of the fridge. You are likely to have far less issues this way. Manufacturer is not important. It is a flaw in design IMO. Some manufacturers do it a little better than others, but at the end of the day ice belongs in the freezer.