If he did the work according to the contract properly, the wall should be sound. I see no mention, however, regarding the floor construction. Assuming it to be a tile floor, proper terchnique would be to install a pre-slope BEFORE installing the Chloroloy liner, protect the weep holes with pea gravel or spacers, then install the final mud bed with proper slope to drain. If, for example, there was no pre-slope or pebbles protecting the weep holes, water will collect on the liner and become stagnant. This will not, in and of itself cause a leak...just begin to smell, grout on the floor and/or around the drain will stay wet. Now, IF he attached or nailed the liner low on the walls or anywhere on the curb except for the outside face, this could compromise the integrety of the pan and cause the problem you have. Watch for persistant moisture particularly near the drain...it's a red flag. Additionally, there could certainly be a problem with faulty plumbing...more likely if only the wall with the controls is wet. Remove the cover plate, as Mongo suggests and use a light to see if there are any wet fittings there. You might try removing the shower head and temporarily cap the pipe, turn on the controls to pressurize the system and look for leaking pipes or junctions. As I mentioned earlier, easier and cheaper to cut a hole on the other side to better inspect. Drywall is easy to fix... As to your question regaring types of tile, makes absolutly no difference...and grout is not waterproof. The tile is there for one reason only; to make it look pretty, not to waterproof anything. The proper construction is what provides water integrity. With a properly built shower, you can use it safely with no tile at all in place.

Yes, the cabinets were wood. They were in good shape so I didn't see the need to replace them. I probably shouldn't have said "refacing" because he didn't actually remove the front pieces of the cabinet. He added some wood for the new hinges to attach to. He made new doors and drawer fronts, and installed full extension glides and and soft close hinges. The old hinges were on the outside. This picture shows the piece of wood that he added. Without that there would have been nothing to screw the new hinge into. I think if we had actually refaced, the hinges would have attached to the side of the cabinet, but I'm not sure about that. Maybe this same type of added would still would have been required because the side of the cabinet is not very thick. The office cabinet needed some extra reinforcing. He added some wood to the inside of that one at the top. He was worried that the granite installers might damage the cabinet if they pushed and pulled on the granite or set it down too hard. He still asked me to warn the installers to be extra careful on that one because he couldn't reinforce it as much as he wanted to. It was difficult to place the wood where he wanted to because it would have interfered with the drawers and he had only so much room between the front of the cabinet and where the sink would go. I can't say that I totally understand what he did to reinforce that one, but it all worked out. If it had gotten damaged, I guess he could have just rebuilt the whole thing, but thankfully that wasn't necessary. My goal was to keep it as simple as possible and I'm thankful that it all worked out that way. This project went so smoothly I can hardly believe it, a welcome change from my kitchen experience! Can't wait to tackle the master bathroom, but have to save up for a while first.

I don't recommend this - but if you are broke - you could try and put a piece of rubber (like cut from an inner tube, and use a hose clamp - like they use on cars. You might be able to stop the leak. They also have shark bite fittings (which I don't like) but they are code. You need to cut the PEX cleanly and square to the pipe. You could probably rent the special tools you need for PEX repair. How to repair PEX Is it the hot water line? I say this because, some years ago I think Nibco had a problem with PEX and hot water. Typically PEX doesn't spring pin holes.

Big job. Rip out and replace with drywall. Since you had to ask, I suspect this is a job you need to hire out. Go ahead and do the demo yourself but hire a drywall company to install new drywall, tape & mud.