trying to grow pure Changsha in zone 7a would be a stretch, most likely it's not going to work out, but you may have a chance in zone 7b (especially the warmer half of zone 7b) if you live in the South. I have tasted the fruit of what I believe was a Morton citrange. The fruit entirely looked like a delicious orange, very inviting, but biting into it it had an awful flavor that I can only describe as putrid, and it made me want to immediately spit it out. I was told there was one other person who tasted it that found it to taste acceptably edible and could eat it. From what I have researched, I think many other Poncirus hybrids don't taste as bad as this Morton citrange, though they usually do tend to have a similar flavor. As for the US 852 hybrid, I have seen a video where a guy said he was even able to manage to enjoy eating them. Though I suspect he probably had more "adventurous" tastes that many people.

Barrie, I have been to Vancouver Island many times (A REALLY wonderful place). I have pretty much been all the way from Victoria to Port Hardy. I was recently there with the American Ivy Society, touring all the gardens, (private gardens closed to the general public and also the public gardens) on the island and then in BC. When there I primarily use the BC Ferry system to go from the island to BC usually out of Nanaimo. I have also taken the hydroplane ferry from Seattle to Victoria, and the ferry line from Port Angeles to Victoria. When you plant the citrus tree you select here is a few items to consider when selecting the best site. Especially in cool or marginal growing areas, such as Vancouver Island, choosing successful planting sites for citrus on your property will involve some common-sense use of microclimates and cultural practices. By using south-facing slopes and even south sides of buildings and fences, you can maximize heat absorption. Planting at the top of a south-facing slope and avoiding low spots will reduce the risk of frost damage. To increase the heat available to your citrus tree in the summer, choose a wind-free site. Dark background surfaces (walls, buildings) and dark mulches absorb and re-radiate more heat than light-colored surfaces. Culturally, raised beds warm more quickly than compacted soil. Minimize nitrogen inputs from mid summer onward to reduce frost-susceptible new growth in fall and winter. Higher moisture levels in the soil also help reduce frost damage. There may be times when some sort of frost blanket makes the difference between life and death for your citrus tree. One cold hardy citrus tree I would consider would be a Thomasville Citrangequat. The fruit has a sweet orange-lime taste with no off flavors, good quality. Hardy to 10F (-12C). Even if the fruit does not aciheve enough heat units every year to totally "ripen" the fruit, it makes an excellent lime substitute from about mid-July onward. You can eat it out of hand by late November or early December. Take Care - Millet

Satsuma is really the only "good-tasting" variety that can be grown in zone 8a. It will not thrive the best there, but it can be grown. Protecting it with a heavy covering of mulch during the winter will definitely help, and a young tree definitely needs to be kept in a pot and brought inside during the winter the first few years until it becomes bigger. You might want to look into trying to create a warmer microclimate. I mean like planting it against a south-facing brick wall. Something else I have read of is using a big pile of freshly decaying compost, which naturally gives off some heat. Two other types of citrus that do well in colder climates are kumquats and yuzu.

My windows are double glass Low-E The bottom half is 2 0f these for 3 sides and leaf bags for the north side. The second level is 1 of these windows on 3 sides with leaf bags on the north side. The second level has additional bubble wrap around to seal air leaks and provide more insulation. The bubble wrap allows the suns heat through to warm the glass with out cooking the plants. I use a 72 watt incandescent light bulb to add heat when the outside temperatures went into the teens and down to our -7F freeze. I am growing only the most cold hardy citrus trees. Unfortunately all my citrus trees ALWAYS burst out in growth around November and December and I must keep the area inside above freezing. Fukushu kumquat ----------15F. Meiwa kumquat--------------15F New Zealand lemonade--(15F-20F) ???? Marumi kumquat------------0F Looking into buying 0ne Hardy Chicago kumquat-Killed back to ground below 10F produces fruit on same year 10 foot tall stump suckers and produces 300-600 kumquats. Steve