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Soapstone wax suggestion?

2 years ago

I have new soapstone countertops and i want to wax them. However, i want to keep the matte finish as well as not use something that will lift up on hands, clothing, etc. Is there a wax that fits my wants?

Aside from that, will using wax over time cause a buildup?

Thank you in advance!

Featured Answer

darbuka

2 years ago

last modified: 2 years ago

@sushipup1…waxing is definitely an option. Many people prefer it to oil. When M. Teixeira fabricated our soapstone counters (almost 6 years ago), they gave us a large bottle of their mineral oil, and a container of wax. We found oiling easier to apply, and used it exclusively during the first two years we oiled.

The nice thing about using mineral oil, it can be easily removed with the back of a blue scrubby sponge, Bon Ami, Comet or Ajax, and a water. We did this a few years ago, to bring the stone back to its original color, and haven’t oiled since. When patina builds up in certain areas…like on either side of the rangetop, and sink, my DH spends a few minutes removing it with the process above. But really, the patina doesnt bother us. It’s a living surface, much like our kitchen. 😊

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Comments (7)

julieste
2 years ago
Can't answer your wax question, but I have a different perspective. My soapstone counters are 7 or 8 years old. They have developed a nice patina, and I have never treated them with anything (oil or wax).
HU-266009188 thanked julieste
sushipup1
2 years ago
A few months ago, someone else asked about waxing soapstone. Honestly, I've been on this forum since 2000, and until then I have never hear of wax on soapstone, Oil, yes, never wax. Where did you hear this?
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I've used Holland Bowl Mill Bee's Oil, which is a blend of natural beeswax and mineral oil. I bought an 8 oz. container 5 yrs. ago and still have 1/3 of it left. I also use it to condition my wood cutting boards. I used mineral oil once, and I found it to be runny and leave an oily residue. The Bee's Oil is a paste wax consistency. I scoop it out with a white cotton dishcloth (which I've dedicated for this use only) and just rub it on like a wax shoe polish. I clear the countertops & island, put on some good music and work at getting all the surfaces covered. When done, I take a clean cloth and buff it up. It was recommended to me to do at night when you can keep everything off the counters and allow it to air dry overnight. There is not much residue, once you buff it. And the color on mine deepens slightly for a while. I did it about once a month for the 1st three months after we had it installed. Otherwise, once a year. I like seeing the variations in the greys of my stone, instead of having an all-black shinier look. Our soapstone counters get a lot of use in a kitchen where there's year-round entertaining at our lake house. I bake a lot and roll dough directly on my island. The soapstone looks as nice as it did when installed - except for one "ding" when I dropped a glass on it when unloading the DW. I purchased my Holland Bowl product online on my soapstone fabricator's recommendation.
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On walnuts: when my son was young he was allergic to peanuts, they gave him hives. One Christmas season I was cracking walnuts while he was sitting on the other side of the peninsula and he began wheezing as I was cracking. The wheezing wasn't new, he had asthma, but the direct cause that time was the walnuts. The good news is that he outgrew his allergies to peanuts, eggs, and corn by the time he was 7. (The egg allergy was keeping him from getting some immunizations, which was a pain for school purposes, so the allergist sent out blood tests and when they came back clear he vaccinated the kid. He made us stay in the office for 3 hours, but all was well.) My point is that I think you're wise to avoid a walnut based product under the circumstances.
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I ended up using both the mineral oil and the milk paint wax. I also don’t oil/wax that much after the first weeks/months. The counter has darkened and stays darker now. I so,dimes oil to dress up bod,people who haven’t seen the kitchen yet. Most is needed around the sinks where it does seem to dry out and get lighter. I think both work and seem to be fine to use both (at separate times). Oil is a bit quicker but leaves more residue (maybe I should rub it out more) the wax takes a bit more effort to rub in but leaves a flatter sheen with a feel I like a bit more. But that difference could be that I used too much oil or don’t rub it out enough - with the wax takes more effort on but doesn’t seem to overdo.
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I tried both oiling and waxing because I wanted to speed up the process of darkening my counters (bathrooms). I was not happy with oiling as it seemed spotty and uneven. I did find a waxing product on Amazon that I have been very happy with but to be honest it's not necessary at all. My decision to wax was only to darken the look of the stone. The soapstone has been bullet proof. I have teen daughters going through a hair dye phase, nail polish, flat irons, hair gel, mouse, lotions, oils, perfumes, etc. The countertop has been zero maintenance even with the heavy use in their bathroom and to my surprise the guest bath with minimal use looks the same. I can't comment on kitchen durability but I don't think you need to do anything to the surface.
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Shannon_WI
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
There used to be a popular soapstone wax on this forum back in the day before Houzz. I remember it was mostly beeswax, and sold on eBay by a single mom. Let me see if I can track it down, and I’ll post back. In the meanwhile, Clapham’s is the wax most recommended for soapstone. I also use Clapham’s on my big cutting board, and it has the added bonus of moisturizing my hands when I wax the board.

https://www.amazon.com/Claphams-Beeswax-870-3008-Finish-7-Ounces/dp/B0012XP7LQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=clapham+salad+bowl+wax&qid=1629923700&sprefix=clapham’s&sr=8-3
HU-266009188 thanked Shannon_WI
theresa21
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
There have been lots of "to wax or oil" soapstone discussions on this forum. I considered soapstone, so I followed many of those discussions. I think it depends on the type of soapstone you have and how it was finished. Some prefer waxing since it lasts longer, smells nice, less oily to the touch and performs better on some soapstone. Others prefer oil, since it's easier to apply, cheaper, less chance of unsightly water rings forming and you can more easily reverse course if you wish. And then there are others who prefer no oil or wax. I think the waxes are part oil to make it easier to apply.

Here is a waxing soapstone demo: https://youtu.be/oaMI_-7bgbU
HU-266009188 thanked theresa21
sushipup1
2 years ago
I am corrected, I guess I did not follow soapstone suggestions closely. I like Darbuka's comment about it being a living surface with patina.
Shannon_WI
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
One tip that cannot be emphasized enough is to use wax or oil on soapstone very sparingly. That is key.

I couldn’t find the beeswax soapstone wax that I mentioned in my comment above. But I did find Florida Joshua’s post that I will link. Oldtimers on this forum will remember Florida Joshua (aka Creative Soapstone) as the best soapstone fabricator on the planet - he has since retired. When he mentions ”Bee’s Oil”, he is talking about Holland Bowl Bee’s Oil (my second link below).

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2695199/what-keeps-soapstone-darker-longer-the-answer

https://www.amazon.com/Bees-Salad-Bowl-Conditioner-Preservative/dp/B001PPE7AS

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