Al I am very happy with my Benjamina's progress. I really thought that I have taken off too many roots (photo of most of the trimmed roots below). I tried my hardest to keep as many fine roots as possible. After potting it in 5-1-1 soil mix, I kept it outside in dappled shade, religiously watered, and even talked to her...You are so right that this kind of work creates bond with your plant. Before starting, my attitude was "if tree doesn't make it, that's ok - it's old, getting too tall for my house, it's crooked and so on". Now I really want it to grow well. I am looking forward to next year when I will try to shape the top much more. Now I see that it could work, one just has to go for it. I never knew this is what you are supposed to do to help plant reach it's potential. I always had some potted plants, but thought that providing as much light as possible, watering them, ocasionally fertilizing and potting up is all you can/should do. I am really glad that I stumbled upon this forum, and found all of this information. Al has been very patient, I even called him at home on Sunday night at inapropriate time. I have bookmarked all Al's posts, and return to reading them often. One of the reasons I didn't give up after seeing the root ball first time was that I felt I took too much of Al's private time for not at least trying. I am happy that I did. My plan for this tree is to shape the canopy more next year, and then do more root prunning year after (2014) - the root ball is still large (but probably 60% smaller than original). There is great satisfaction in completing this new -for me- task and seeing the results. And I think the tree is happier too... Henrik, forgive me for posting so extensively in your thread, but I hope that my experience will somehow help - from the newbies point of view. Most of the pruned-off roots: Rina

Hi greekman, Welcome to the addiction! (It always starts with just one...) Anyways, Debbie brought up some good points and I'd like to add a few notions. 1) This is true of only some orchids, generally ones such as the Ghost Orchid that do not have leaves to process light. However, the odds are that you have one of the more common tropical orchids, probably a Phalaenopsis, also known as a moth orchid. You can use just about any kind of pot you wish, as long as it has drainage holes. Some people swear by transparent pots, since it allows them to see the condition of the roots, though they only see half the picture, with the middle of the root ball not visible because of the potting media. Ive tried identical plants in transparent or green plastic pots. No difference whatsoever. I tend to use whatever's easily accessible at repotting time. 2) Fertilizer is kind of like a vitamin for your orchid - it helps it grow nice vigorous roots and leaves, or a stronger spike and nicer buds. Once it's in flower, why fertilize? Fertilizer is in effect mineral salts. If the plant doesn't use it, fertilizer becomes excess mineral salts and can end up as a deposit on the roots, which can choke them. When you do fertilize, do so often (two out of three waterings, for example), but very weakly, about a quarter of the recommended strength. And only fertilize when the plant is in active growth. You can use just about any fertilizer - a 20-20-20 is like a daily multivitamin, a higher first number is good for promoting vegetative growth (roots and leaves) and a high middle number is good for blooms. 3) To let dry or not to let dry, that is the question... When an orchid is in optimal growing conditions, you shouldn't let it get completely dry. Note I said "optimal growing conditions" - this plant has been through a lot, going from its nice little greenhouse, then to a store where the salespeople might not have known how to care for it and then to your house. This is assuming the greenhouse was near the store; in a lot of cases now, these plants have come to you from Asia. Its light, humidity and temperature needs have likely not been met for a little while, so it's no surprise that the flowers don't look so hot. First, no matter what you do, orchid flowers will not plump back up. Once they're done, they're done. What you have to do is give it some TLC so that the flowers that are still in good shape or not too old (on a Phalaenopsis, for example, each flower lasts an average of 12 weeks) can last as long as possible, and so that it will rebloom. For this, we would need to know what kind of orchid it is. IÂm enclosing a link below to culture sheets produced by the American Orchid Society. You can take a quick look at them  there are line drawings which should help you identify your orchid and even some growing tips. Knowing what you have, we can then go into more detail about how you should grow it. I hope that the above novella helps. (I really try to be concise, but it never works.) Julie

Local nurseries (small, medium and large sized ones) replenish their camellias inventories in the Fall or Winter. To determine exactly or more or less when, I suggest you visit the store(s) and ask. For example, I notice that Lowes gets camellia shipments on or after October. Whatever inventory remains, it remains until it is sold. Interestingly, running low or selling out of the inventory does not trigger new deliveries from the wholesalers. Because of that, there is not a japonica (only) buying season. The store will get all the camellia shipments at about the same time, regardless of whether the camellia is a japonica, sasanquas, etc. Certain local stores may have a large inventory and that inventory may last thru the year. That probably varies from city to city. A recently planted camellia will not need much fertilizer because the potting mix that comes with the shrubs will likely contain those round fertilizer pellets. The American Camellia Society suggests three applications from March thru September using three types of fertilizers. The 1st application should use a high nitrogen fertilizer; the 2nd application should use a moderate nitrogen/phosphate fertilizer; the third application should use a high phosphate fertilizer. Or you could add 1/2 cup to 1 cup or cottonseed meal monthly between March and September (do not feed if the temperatures are warm, say, above 90). You can get specific suggestions for CA from the Napa Valley Chapter of the American Camellia Society; see the link below. Most Miracle Gro formulations are not good fertilizers for camellias as they are too high on nitrogen. A slow-release general-purpose (chemical or organic) fertilizer will do better. Cottonseed Meal can be purchased in organic minded plant nurseries stores and in small-to-medium size local plant nurseries. The big stores rarely carry it. The Napa Valley Chapter of the ACS might be able to recommend places to get cottonseed meal. There are many commercial camellia/azalea potting mixes sold that you could use. Or could make your own. See the following posts: http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/camellia/msg0122484619225.html http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/camellia/msg1011172231762.html?1 You could fertilize monthly with cottonseed meal during the growing season or apply half the amount of your Miracle Gro every two weeks. From October through February, apply a general purpose 2-10-10 fertilizer. Luis Here is a link that might be useful: Napa Valley Camellia Society

I also highly recommend Lion Brand. They send a weekly e-mail newsletter that always includes at least 4 patterns (usually 2 knit, 2 crochet), and their website has lots of patterns--many of those have been reviewed by people who have knitted them. One other tip--and you probably already know this, but . . . I have learned several knitting stitches by studying videos that have been posted on YouTube. My favorite ones are by "knitwitch." Her instructions are clear, and she uses good contrasting yarn & background so you can really see the specific steps to the stitches. The best part about it is that I can pause the video whenever I want and watch it over, and over, and over until I get the stitch right!